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  • #76
    Originally posted by cpostis View Post
    Looking at the MSDS sheet for this chemical (Extreemly nasty stuff!), it states "for industrial use only". At what concentration, I do not know. So I presume YIEC is above the threshold, when the threshold began I don't know either? So the Yamaha "dealer-applied product"?

    __________________
    Chuck,
    1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her
    YIEC in action. Maybe the guy should have had a full body suit on.

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    • #77
      Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
      YIEC in action. Maybe the guy should have had a full body suit on.
      only need that if you spill it on you or your clothes.
      that does make it look like bad stuff

      there were things in the plants I worked in that you did not want on you or your clothes.
      I hated having to wear an indicating badge type of thing that would tell you when you were exposed to too much of something almost as bad as having to be in that plant to start out with.
      at least in the CL2 plants I could see and smell it before it would get me too bad
      Last edited by 99yam40; 01-02-2017, 12:12 PM.

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      • #78
        that is using the auto injector.
        we do not have one.
        what I do is mix 16OZ of yies with about 3 qts of gas.
        drain the engines fuel system and refill it with the mix and run it till it drains the tank.
        this is one of the few snake oils I have used that actually work.

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        • #79
          I am old enough to remember spraying Imron primer and paint in a semi-enclosed booth with no respirator gear on. We then bathed in MEK to get paint off. This was back in the days before it was known that this stuff can kill you. Or your liver anyway. Try living without a liver.

          This might explain why the way I are. Those were the good ole days. I don't remember much about them. A mind is a terrible thing to have lost.

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          • #80
            washed carbs with gas, tools with desiel.
            many times I used MEK as a hand wash.
            resperators were for wussies.
            pumped more leaded gas than I care to remember.
            it is a wonder we made it.

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            • #81
              Originally posted by pakostane View Post


              On old rings no TOP mark. Is it matter which side of ring on top side?
              Not sure if this instruction is for your motor, but this is what it says:
              [IMG]F9.9PistonRings by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

              But in any case, re-used rings should be placed on the same piston and groove where they came from.

              Others should elaborate.
              Chuck,
              1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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              • #82
                Originally posted by pakostane View Post
                m.

                On second pictures you can see broken oil pipe. I broke them during deassembling engine. It is very hard and fragile plastik. Whether it was from rubber when it was new? Can I put there some rubber pipe or I have to buy new oem part, because of oil temperature?
                So what we're the spec's (preferably in inches) for your engine?

                Each of your compression rings, what are the numbers?

                You posted .6 mm ring end gap, correct?



                As an FYI, re compression rings,

                the top ring end gap for mine is .15-.30 mm
                the bottom ring end gap for mine is .30-.45 mm

                If your gaps should be close to these, their VERY WORN....
                Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-02-2017, 02:35 PM.
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                • #83
                  Originally posted by cpostis View Post
                  Not sure if this instruction is for your motor, but this is what it says:
                  [IMG]F9.9PistonRings by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

                  But in any case, re-used rings should be placed on the same piston and groove where they came from.

                  Others should elaborate.

                  I will change rings with new one. I suppose the new one will have mark for top side.

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                  • #84
                    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                    So what we're the spec's (preferably in inches) for your engine?

                    Each of your compression rings, what are the numbers?

                    You posted .6 mm ring end gap, correct?



                    As an FYI, re compression rings,

                    the top ring end gap for mine is .15-.30 mm
                    the bottom ring end gap for mine is .30-.45 mm

                    If your gaps should be close to these, their VERY WORN....




                    I found repair manual for some 9.9 model but not mine model. U suppose numbers are the same. Yes it is correct thats my ring 1. 2. and oil end gap is 0.6mm. First and second compression rings are out of tollerances, but oil rings are in tollerance.

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                    • #85
                      Well the worn compression rings are why your getting oil in that hose, compressions getting past them. Those usually wear first.

                      Is there still some cross hatching visable on the cylinders? Much if any
                      up and down cylinder wear?

                      You may want to just check further down the cylinder with just one ring, for S&G's, just to see if the cylinder is out of round... Probably not...
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                      • #86
                        Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                        Well the worn compression rings are why your getting oil in that hose, compressions getting past them. Those usually wear first.

                        Is there still some cross hatching visable on the cylinders? Much if any
                        up and down cylinder wear?

                        You may want to just check further down the cylinder with just one ring, for S&G's, just to see if the cylinder is out of round... Probably not...
                        Cylinder seems good. No tooth between part cylinder wheere rings travel and other part of cylinder.

                        I did not understand how to check if cylinder was out of rund with one ring?

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                        • #87
                          to correctly place the ring in the bore requires either a piston or a slug the diameter of said piston.
                          push the ring down the bore, it must me square with the bore.
                          \use a feeler guage to check the end gap.\
                          if you do this in several places you can find bore taper and bore out of round.
                          both limits are in the SM.

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                          • #88
                            I order parts. Today it came to market. On piston rings I have "N" mark. Is it going according to up side of piston?

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                            • #89
                              Originally posted by pakostane View Post
                              I order parts. Today it came to market. On piston rings I have "N" mark. Is it going according to up side of piston?
                              Yes sir, on 2nd ring and top ring "N" mark faces upward towards the top of the piston.

                              [IMG]F9.9PistonRings by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]
                              Chuck,
                              1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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                              • #90
                                Do you have end gap of ring tolerances. I found some tolerances of 0.15-0.30mm. I have new ring in cylinder end gap od 0.4mm. I have no tooth on cylinder between lower dead point and TDC. Today is air temperature 3C maybe it has an impact on measure.

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