Video - '99 Yamaha 2stroke 40hp - Way too much play, missing a bushing?

[phisherman]

I am officially stumped on this one.

Just the upper casing (mid-section), steering bracket assembly, and bracket remain. Returning to the diagram shared earlier, it seems the only way to remove the #22 "mount damper, upper side" is to slide the entire midsection off as seen in this video at the 10:00 minute mark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV-Gd9il9MA

But, even if I was to do this, the top of the upper casing, the part called the Exhaust Guide, blocks access to slide the long bolt, #23 referenced earlier, out. The head of the long bolt that runs through the damper and all the way to the steering bracket is recessed in the Exhaust guide, seemingly making it impossible to slide it out.

What in the world am I missing here?

[phisherman]

Here is a video recap:

https://youtube.com/shorts/NlqE5K1q1Co?feature=share

[99yam40]

I have no idea how that works to get those bolts out.
But since you have removed the 3 bolts out from the mount ,can it be pried up any at all?

[phisherman]

No, the “mount damper, upper side” has a metal sleeve under the rubber with the long bolt running through. I can pry it up a couple millimeters but that it. The long bolt is keeping it in place. I think the 3 top bolts are meant to keep the metal d damper housing in place, allowing the built in rubber to absorb vibration, but there seems to be no way to get the whole damper out without somehow removing the long bolt.

[99yam40]

lets hope someone with the proper knowledge will drop in and let us all know how those bolts come out

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Looking at the video and parts diagram, it seems both upper and lower engine mounts must have their retaining nuts removed(4 total) and the mid section pulled away from the "swivel section".

Once separated and the the long, top two bolts NOW, not held in place (by the metal section they run thru) the loosened rubber mounts should allow those parts to be removed..

..

[99yam40]

Looking at the video and parts diagram, it seems both upper and lower engine mounts must have their retaining nuts removed(4 total) and the mid section pulled away from the "swivel section".

Once separated, the long top two bolts NOW not held in place (by the metal section they run thru) the loosened rubber mounts should allow those parts to be removed..

..

this sounds correct now that you posted it

[phisherman]

Ok, I will give this a shot tonight. Thank you for the advice.

[phisherman]

Success. Took some serious leverage and a big hammer but was able to slide off the midsection and finally remove the upper rubber mounts. Only one bolt snapped in the process…a win. Thank you for the support getting me through this. Now just need to order some parts, clean everything up and reassemble. Fingers crossed.

[Keithbaja]

Someone has to say it... Listen,, you can only polish a turd so much........ Your over due for a new or better used motor. Tell you what,, if a year from now you can prove me wrong, I will never post on the internet again and will buy you a new motor up to a 30 hp.

[phisherman]

Deal. Mark the date, 5/31/2024!! For what's it's worth, I completely agree. I have to replace the transom first, couple wet spots on the mid-80's Hobie Power Skiff. Trying to get one more year out of it before doing the transom and slapping a new motor on. This stuff is fun, right?!

[99yam40]

Yes this stuff is fun, but it is best to spread this all out over 15 years or so.
that is why we buy used and fix them.
I bought my C40TLRX in 2008
so far I have replaced fuel pump, cleaned carbs several times before finding out the jets got drilled
replaced the main jets because someone drilled them out.
Replace the CDI because I could not get the idle timing to work properly.
replaced the crank because the main bearings sounded rough.(Rust pits)and getting louder over a few years.
while in there I replace the check valves in the crankcase recirculation lines due to most had failed
had to have the block welded because of corrosion hole next to the stat.
resealed the lower unit and replaced some bearings in there while I was at it.

ran fine today, 1st time in the water this year

[phisherman]

Back in business. Ended up being a completely shot upper motor mount, snapped shift/throttle bracket, and bent shift rod. Somewhere in the $150-200 range and a lot of hours but she’s running like a top again with no play/rattle. Much appreciated to all the help again.

[99yam40]

good to hear, thanks for reporting back what you did.
how hard was it to get that circle clip off and remove that steering or pivot shaft

[phisherman]

Most challenging part was getting those long bolts that run through the upper mounts and into the steering/pivot bracket out. The whole mid-section is held in place by 4 simple nylon nuts, 2 on the steering/pivot bracket, 2 on the inside end of the lower motor mounts. I had done the lowers earlier so those slid out easily. The upper bolts were frozen. Ended up soaking everything for several nights and wailing away on a solid part of the exhaust bracket with a 2x4 buffer and it finally freed. Reassembly went smooth over a couple evenings.