Need some help with new to me 1995 P50TLRT

[95Whaler]

Ahhhhhhhhh I am stupid, I was revving up the motor with the butterfly valves on the carbs directly, not using the actual throttle lever, so timing was not advancing. I will try that tomorrow, hopefully that is my reason for breaking up. ~5 Deg ATDC isn't good for much rpm above idle.

[99yam40]

well I hope that is the problem
for someone the break off that needle and drop it into the lower pan and then put it back together, mean there is no telling what all you might find.

took me a long time to find out someone drilled out the main jets on my C40

[95Whaler]

Thanks - it ran much better advancing the actual throttle, no concerns that I could see or hear in the driveway on the muffs. I think it is ready to test in the water. Trailer lights are a mess , of course they worked when I went to pick up the boat and broke as soon as I got home, so I ordered a new LED trailer light kit and will just replace everything.

After a successful water test I'll go back and fix the prime start setup and do the water pump too. I will have more questions I am sure though!!!

[95Whaler]

A few more quick questions... for now:

I'm assuming I should put a skeg guard on this? Any brand in particular?
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Where is the fuse holder for this spare fuse which is attached to a line on the transom going into the motor--which is for the tilt/trim I'm guessing?
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Any way to identify this prop?
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thanks again

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm very happy with my "Skeggard": https://skeggard.com/

On my F150:

[95Whaler]

I've read about corrosion from dissimilar metals (SS and alloy?) is that only an issue in salt water?

[panasonic]

I've read about corrosion from dissimilar metals (SS and alloy?) is that only an issue in salt water?

You have a bunch of corrosion you need to clean up and paint on that Lower unit anyway. From the looks of Scott's skeg saver it's only two screws that hold it on., so just take it off to every now and then to clean it up and put it back on.
Looks like you have oil leak from your prop shaft? Have you checked the oil to see if water is getting in there?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 re Pan's note. Prep/clean the skeg before doing anything with it.


When I installed mine, I re-painted all the scruffs (soft sand run aground, no corrosion). I then waxed the heck out of it before the install.

As noted, there are only two bolts that secure it and are designed if you hit something super hard, they should shear off,
it'd protect the original skeg((what's left of it)) and LU.

Fresh water runs down into there whenever the engine is washed as well.

You also have the option of epoxying it on there. That would eliminate any corrosion/water intrusion.
Click on the link. I had mine custom made and the customer service was EXCELLENT. He's a one man operation(at least when I ordered probably 5 years ago)

The drain (so water drains from the unit) is usually on the front. I wanted it on the rear as I store mine on a boat lift/engine trimmed fully down.
It would drain better and won't clog with dirt if run aground(hole at the front). I had to wait a couple weeks but the owner made it specifically for me with NO payment. (That drain hole is drilled BEFORE the SS is bent/welded up).

The only down side, I lost 1 MPH on the top end (a little more drag).


BTW, our engines are mostly aluminum, held together with mostly SS hardware.



*Mines used in brackish AND salt water (depending on Lake Okeechobee ((Center Florida)) fresh water releases in rainey season)

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[95Whaler]

Thanks guys. I'll clean it up before installing a skeg guard.

I think there could be a small leak but it might also be black super rich exhaust issue (which is now fixed) washing down from when I had the muffs on. On my to do list is to change the prop shaft seal/seals ..
I did change the lower unit fluid and it looked basically straight black, I did not see any water or contaminants in it thankfully.

[99yam40]

Thanks guys. I'll clean it up before installing a skeg guard.

I think there could be a small leak but it might also be black super rich exhaust issue (which is now fixed) washing down from when I had the muffs on. On my to do list is to change the prop shaft seal/seals ..
I did change the lower unit fluid and it looked basically straight black, I did not see any water or contaminants in it thankfully.

if no water intrusion at this time I would not reseal it yet, you have lots of other things to do.
Just make sure you check the lube before setting it away for any period .
you do not want water to sit inside with gears and bearing

[panasonic]

if no water intrusion at this time I would not reseal it yet, you have lots of other things to do.
Just make sure you check the lube before setting it away for any period .
you do not want water to sit inside with gears and bearing

I agree with Yam, if it isn't leaking don't mess with it. You can open up a big can of worms trying to get that seal carrier out!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

if no water intrusion at this time I would not reseal it yet, you have lots of other things to do.
Just make sure you check the lube before setting it away for any period .
you do not want water to sit inside with gears and bearing

Plus 1 ^^^.

Trying to pull the prop carrier (for seal replacement), on an engine with that corrosion (with NO leaks), your fixin to open a large can of worms...


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[95Whaler]

Sounds good , we'll leave the prop seal alone for now!

We were able to get out on a test run today, 40F and overcast, possibly the "best" day for the next 5 months here in Vermont. Started with some difficulty which I attribute to prime start being disabled, but once it was started it idled smoothly and rev'd up nicely. I did open it up all the way but I don't think I really gave it enough time to plane out. It only hit about 5000RPM with ~500# of people+stuff onboard. Nobody really wanted to go very fast with the wind in our face @ 40F , but overall it seemed to run really well.

The boat will probably parked for a while now, in a heated garage.. but I need to figure out what should be done to it to prep for sitting.

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[95Whaler]

I finally got around to opening up the prime start section off of carb #2. Indeed the diaphragm is broken, which explains the flooding of the crankcase. So my fix is pretty simple:

New primestart solenoid
New primestart diaphragm


About $200

[95Whaler]

I have replaced these 2 parts (solenoid and diapgragm). How long should the engine crank before firing up after sitting for say a week? It seems like it takes a good 10 seconds of cranking to start. I know the primestart solenoids default position is retracted which should let extra fuel in. I was thinking it would start more quickly. Once it is started it starts fine after that.