Need some help with new to me 1995 P50TLRT

[panasonic]

Have a look at this video, it should give you a better understanding of the prime start system on your engine. My guess is that #2 is flooding. Do you have a Yamaha shop manual for your engine?
https://youtu.be/x35uqVMu2r0

Edit

Looks like you already seen that.

[99yam40]

From the net (which as I re-call via Rodbolt) is correct (not his post). I bolded the important part.
IE, I'm reading that if the tip of the Prime Start is broke off, it can't close off.



The prime start device works like this, there is a small fuel pump on the center carb, (where the manual enrichment is, small red valve) When the engine is cold, the needle valve on the electro thermal valve (the white thing with the blue and black wires in it mounted on the middle carb) is retracted, this opens up a passageway and allows fuel from the small pump to be sent down a hose to the intake manifold, as the motor runs, voltage from the battery charging coils in the stator,warms a wax pellet in the electro thermal device and this pushes the needle valve slowly to it's seat cutting off the extra fuel.

The device can be tested, it is held onto the center carb by two phillips head screws, remove the screws and pull it up and out of the carb, leave the ground wire connected to the block, measure from the body of the device to the end of the needle valve, disconnect the blue wire from the green wire near the rectifier regulator, touch the blue wire to a 12 volt source like the battery positive post at the starter solenoid, it will not spark, hold it there a few minutes, then measure the needle valve again, if it has moved out and your measurement is longer then the valve is working.

In this case I would say that the carbs were not done correctly, they probably did not remove the valve to see if it was stuck or bad, as far as it creating a fire? I doubt it, never heard or seen that. If the engine will not start by just turning the key and you have to use manual enrichment then the valve may be stuck closed or the fuel passageway is clogged.



*Just read you found the plunger, did you install it?

.

I went back in time and found the post I did years ago on prime start if anyone is interested on what I found and sketched out on passages.
Even boats.net agreed the pump did not pump in auto

https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/...ystem-question

[Keithbaja]

Do folks on this blog buy boats and motors to **** around FOREVER with a motor issue instead of getting it fixed correctly and using the boat for it's designed purpose ???? My god !! It's come to my attention That this blog serves no value in boat life but to waste time off the water with a boat that dosnt work.. listen kids,, I have all kinds of drills, pliers,channel locks, vise grips.. let me fix your teeth !! This is over for me here.. and I won't let the door hit me on the way out.. there is 1 nice guy currently on here trying to redo his lwr end. I tryed to message him to get him a brand new unit with 3 yr no fault return policy for under a $1000. Usdls. If you not in any certain biz at this age. Don't go thinking U are going to save time, money yourself.. and yes your correct when you stat you took it to blo Joe for good money and still not done right.. I sea THAT all the time.. BIG Sign out front but young wanna be Tech's with no KNACK or skill.. it SUCK's what I sea from marine repair shops (used loosely) you know what the lady's say " Big Truck,, Small d__k. Same in boat repair..most times.. I wished I had a answer for my fellow fisherfolks.. I won't give up helping folks but,, writing a post about another persons engine issue with knowing and seeing is really a lost cause for everyone.. IMO. be safe and tight lines. I'm done here...... OUT

[Keithbaja]

PPS,,, I'm glad boating isn't cheap,, look at all the fools I have deal with on the water as it is. And don't get me started about boat ramps.. they used to be called " weekend warriors,,, now just f-Ing Idiots" I've done SAR for many years with many LEA,s,,,, not so much anymore.. I know I'm tough,, but,, you can't fix STUPID !!

[panasonic]

Do folks on this blog buy boats and motors to **** around FOREVER with a motor issue instead of getting it fixed correctly and using the boat for it's designed purpose ???? My god !! It's come to my attention That this blog serves no value in boat life but to waste time off the water with a boat that dosnt work.. listen kids,, I have all kinds of drills, pliers,channel locks, vise grips.. let me fix your teeth !! This is over for me here.. and I won't let the door hit me on the way out.. there is 1 nice guy currently on here trying to redo his lwr end. I tryed to message him to get him a brand new unit with 3 yr no fault return policy for under a $1000. Usdls. If you not in any certain biz at this age. Don't go thinking U are going to save time, money yourself.. and yes your correct when you stat you took it to blo Joe for good money and still not done right.. I sea THAT all the time.. BIG Sign out front but young wanna be Tech's with no KNACK or skill.. it SUCK's what I sea from marine repair shops (used loosely) you know what the lady's say " Big Truck,, Small d__k. Same in boat repair..most times.. I wished I had a answer for my fellow fisherfolks.. I won't give up helping folks but,, writing a post about another persons engine issue with knowing and seeing is really a lost cause for everyone.. IMO. be safe and tight lines. I'm done here...... OUT

See ya Keith. I don't expect any reply because you said you are done!

Then again you have said that several times now....

[panasonic]

I put good fuel in it. I took apart and cleaned the carbs again.

I found the float height on the middle and bottom cylinders to be off so that when the float was "sunk" it wasn't really getting a good fuel flow. I adjusted and tested by applying vacuum to the fuel barb on the carb with the float hanging down and saw that the vacuum bled off quickly and easily when i turned the carb the other way.

I put it all back together and ran it with water muffs in neutral. It starts very easily and idles OK but seems that cyl #2 isn't really running . Both the top and middle cylinder will idle by themselves with the other spark plugs unplugged but #2 will not start this way.

I tried swapping plugs around and it didn't help. #2 is getting spark by the way.

I am wondering if the prime start system could be causing problems with cylinder #2.. I noticed that when i applied a little bit of pressure to the prime start fuel hoses with the emergency enrichment lever set to "OFF" that a little bit of air went through where the solenoid normally sits. It is not a lot, but it's some. It's not clear to me what implications this would have though. I honestly don't think there is enough vacuum to cause any real issues, given how little gets through but???

Should I try capping off of the hose barbs related to the prime start system on the carb and intake manifold to see if this helps?

Any other ideas??? I was hoping to get out this weekend, it is going to be 60F (it snowed earlier in the week!)!.

by the way I found the plunger... and a cotter pin and a washer in the engine tray .50574121577_9c345d315f_b.jpg

Yes... plug it off and see if it starts to hit on all cylinders.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

PPS,,, I'm glad boating isn't cheap,, look at all the fools I have deal with on the water as it is. And don't get me started about boat ramps.. they used to be called " weekend warriors,,, now just f-Ing Idiots" I've done SAR for many years with many LEA,s,,,, not so much anymore.. I know I'm tough,, but,, you can't fix STUPID !!

THREE TOTAL posts on this thread and NOT one mention to HELP to find the possible issue, solution..

Just pissing and moaning and of course the sometimes nastiness / attacks..

Adios Keith!

[95Whaler]

I don't think I can put the plunger back, it looks like it is supposed to be attached to the solenoid and that it broke off. Maybe it could be repaired... I'll take a look. Of course I can put it back in the hole just to see how it acts, but it won't retract. More to come when I have more tinkering time.

Do any of you guys need an open box Yamaha MAR-10MEL-00-00 filter? I'll ship it out at my expense. It came with the boat, and was new in packaging, I opened it and wrote on the filter the date/hours before realizing it doesn't fit my filter housing but it is brand new otherwise.

[99yam40]

someone from up north wrote some time back about adjusting that needle to allow more fuel to flow when it was real cold up there.
seems he turned it from what I think I remember,(not sure how he held and turned it)
So I was thinking it screwed onto a shaft. If it is broken off then it is not going to screw back on

[95Whaler]

Cold compression is #1 ~107, #2 ~106 and #3 ~106 psi btw so I don't think that is the issue with #2.

[99yam40]

Cold compression is #1 ~107, #2 ~106 and #3 ~106 psi btw so I don't think that is the issue with #2.

Check timing with a light to make sure #2 is firing when it should be and that it gets good spark.
there was someone not long ago saying he had a plug sparking at the wrong time some how
checking peak voltages may be needed if there is a problem with good spark

if there is metal missing from one of those carb parts, you might want to look at the reeds incase something bent or hung up in there

[bigallen200]

As a long time reader and retired 1998 boat mechanic. I understand another mechanics whining. I read this blog for laughs myself.. I think Kieth had some good post's and insight. each to their own I guess. He hit the nail on the head about boat ramps today. I'm too old to take my boat out so I gave it up. Still go the boat ramp for laughs. Allen

[95Whaler]

I went back in time and found the post I did years ago on prime start if anyone is interested on what I found and sketched out on passages.
Even boats.net agreed the pump did not pump in auto

https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/...ystem-question

Thanks, that helps!

[95Whaler]

I capped off all of the hoses going to and from prime start and it starts and fires on all 3 cylinders. Interestingly, it starts really easily without prime start.

In testing , If I applied vacuum to the vacuum hose going to the crankcase from prime start system, regardless of the red lever position, I'd get lots of raw fuel, so I , suspect a problem with the diaphragm or something. Same thing with the hose going to cyl #1 from the prime start system. Lots of raw fuel.

I will fully check out the prime start system later. I also replaced the fuel water separator filter. I also removed whatever 2 stroke oil was in the injection tank, and replaced it with the standard Amsoil stuff. I haven't checked ignition timing yet but I will. I also will check the reeds.

Should I be able to rev the motor in neutral with the throttle plates alone or does it only work as expected when it is in gear ? Currently it will still bog out if I try to rev in neutral with the throttle plates alone. I can rev it up to say 1500 rpm no problem wit the carb throttle plates, but not much more before it starts choking, looks like spewing fuel to me.

[99yam40]

yes you should be able to rev the motor up in neutral as long as the timing advances and the throttle plates open to let in air and you get more fuel sucked in with that air at the proper ratio fuel to air for it to burn properly.

with the red lever turned to off there should not be liquid fuel getting past that to go up to the intake manifold.
also just incase you do not know this already, there are passages in that intake that should send the extra fuel to all 3 cylinders while the prime start sends it to #1.

hope you understood my 3 little drawings in that other post
make sure the hoses all are coming from and going to the correct places
just saying, if you pull a vacuum on the line from the 2nd carb bowl you will get liquid fuel, and that should be the only place if red lever is in off.