SX150TXRY Idle / Stalling

[rodbolt17]

in a pinch use small paper clips and slip the wire in from the backside of the connector,
DO NOT pierce the insulation.

[99yam40]

Thank you for the recommendation. Yes, that is good sound advice. Problem is that to proceed with further testing, I will need either to get the test harnesses or try something like piercing the insulation, poking in through the back of the plug or fashion some hokey form of adapter.

Now, that may just be something, if I could fabricate a few (6) loose jumpers that would link the two plugs reliably while having a test point.
Of course, it would not be a good as having an adapter plug set for each connector, but backyardigans do have to be resourceful.

I got ten each of the parts from allied electronics to fab up DVA's. I am curious how the results will compare to the CD-77 vs my Fluke with the DVA adapter.

The one I made read within a couple of volts of the 77 I borrowed, but if you have the 77 why even bother unless you just want a spare or 2 in case the 77 fails or disappears. Which they can if used out on the water.

I used stick pins I dulled and rounded the points on to keep from damaging the insulation instead of the small paper clips as that is what had on hand at the house

[FabricGATOR]

Stator it was. Well done gentlemen!

So I swapped the stator with the port engine, and the fault followed.
Yesterday, I visited a used parts source, and acquired the wrong stator. Shame on me for not bringing the comparison part.

Having the engine broke down for R&R, I think I will bake the stator in the oven for a few hours.... 170º, no basting required.

I remember from my hurricane and generator days, that an owner should start the generator regularly and not just run the engine, but load the electrical end 20% to heat the windings up and cook the moisture out.

I just can't do the real repair 600 dollar thing right yet, so I'll try a little experiment.

These engines had been sitting on the vessel afloat for a few years when my buddy got sick. He would go out and run them at dock a few times every five months, but she didn't see open water for at least three years.

I'll let ya'll know after I melt the wires and connectors in a few hours.

Hey, how hot do you imagine it is exposed to in operating conditions? How hot can I bake this thing?

[99yam40]

We used to bake transformer and electric motor windings at high temps and then dip them to reseal, but they did not have any plastic parts in them.

Anything below 212 would not remove the moisture in my opinion.

May want to ohm the windings to see if it has an open or a short.
a meg-ohm meter that can induce different voltage levels would come in handy when checking to ground.
do not see baking to help an open and once the insulation fails and winding shorts there is a good chance baking will not unshort it.

Baking will remove moisture that is causing leakage but not much else

So it sounds like you did not do the testing with meter to see what was going on

[FabricGATOR]

Anything below 212 would not remove the moisture in my opinion.

I disagree, my cloths dry in lower than boiling temps.

May want to ohm the windings to see if it has an open or a short.

I wish I had a schematic of the stator assembly, so I know what to test for. I could sus it out, see what I come up with. Compare it to the functional unit.

a meg-ohm meter that can induce different voltage levels would come in handy when checking to ground.

I use MegOhm for testing for ground faults / insulation resistance loss. What voltage would you test at? Usually twice the expected voltage.

I do not see baking to help an open and once the insulation fails and winding shorts there is a good chance baking will not unshort it.

I agree, but trying shouldn't hurt anything. I do have an intermittent fault that is hard to nail down to any particular speed, temp, condition, etc.

So it sounds like you did not do the testing with meter to see what was going on

No, I did not venture further because I figure if the assembly is faulty, there was no repairing just one section or coil. I imagine a shop or technician who is familiar with winding armatures could rewind a stator. I don't have those resource's readily available to me. But I might try. probably cost prohibitive for unknown reliability.

Really, I get a kick out of repairing components as opposed to just buying a new one a great expense, but I have to think of the reliability of the repair. Especially while planning on *****ing around in the Bermuda triangle...

Usually if I have at least my Swiss army knife with me, I have always made it back to the beach.

All great advice and information 99YAM40, thank you.

[99yam40]

I disagree, my cloths dry in lower than boiling temps. Just takes a lot longer without the forced air movement, and I am not sure what temp the clothes drier runs at, but think it is up fairly high. Might look at what the overtemp fuses are rated at on the driers to be sure. Never thought about it before

I wish I had a schematic of the stator assembly, so I know what to test for. I could sus it out, see what I come up with. Compare it to the functional unit.
Service manual should have wire colors along with the specs

I use MegOhm for testing for ground faults / insulation resistance loss. What voltage would you test at? Usually twice the expected voltage.
Yes,just remember not all the coils have the same rating

I agree, but trying shouldn't hurt anything. I do have an intermittent fault that is hard to nail down to any particular speed, temp, condition, etc.


No, I did not venture further because I figure if the assembly is faulty, there was no repairing just one section or coil. I imagine a shop or technician who is familiar with winding armatures could rewind a stator. I don't have those resource's readily available to me. But I might try. probably cost prohibitive for unknown reliability.
Voltage readings are the simplest way to identify what and where the problems are.
Swapping parts is the long way around and then hope moving wires around did not cause changes also.
agreed if the individual coils and not removable then the whole thing has to be replaced, but looking for bad connections or visable problems may get it done if you know which wires and coils to be looking at

Really, I get a kick out of repairing components as opposed to just buying a new one a great expense, but I have to think of the reliability of the repair. Especially while planning on *****ing around in the Bermuda triangle...

Yea, hate to depend on something rigged that far out

Usually if I have at least my Swiss army knife with me, I have always made it back to the beach.

All great advice and information 99YAM40, thank you.

Shoot it makes me add typing down here too besides the stuff in red above

[FabricGATOR]

Stator baked

Well heating the stator in the oven had no appreciable results.

I did talk to the used parts shop in West Palm. Possibly they have one serviceable part for me.

I guess I'm just going to have to bust the nut and buy a newbie. Maybe I can get one of those 0% finance for fif**** years credit cards to pay for it.

I'm getting real good at getting the flywheel on and off. I don't hardly crush my fingers on the starter bendix when the magnets engage anymore. Lesson learned.

That cracks me up that they sensor the sum of ten plus five!

[FabricGATOR]

FIxed

....wish all would come back with what problems were found

She's running pretty good now. I R&R stator (had to get a used one). Started a little rough at first until the plugs cleared, but then ran pretty darn good.

Now that I have the fish nervous again, I'm going to try to rewind my original stator as an experiment. I'll have to tear it down to find out what gauge magnet wire to use. Then should be simply wrapping the correct number of wraps of the correct gauge and length of wire. Also must consider the coating and final dressing. I'll be sure to get enough wire to do it several times as I'm bound to bugger something up.

My good stator ohm'd out at 360Ω each. The charging coils on the intermittent stator ohm'd at 176Ω and 196Ω

My new used stator ohm's at 298Ω and 293Ω. I don't know if temperature affects the readings. I'd say that when I ohm'd my good stator and the intermittent annoyance one, it was about mid 70ºF and when I checked the used donor it was in the 50º's

Again, thank you for your continued support and assistance.