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  • #31
    did you find how to make a DVA?
    Attached Files

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    • #32
      Dva

      Thank you 99yam40,

      Yes I did. That is a great, big tip from you. Most appreciated sir.
      I had found a similar drawing. This one is better than the one I have. There is also a youtube video or two.

      Basically, I think it works like an accumulator in a hydraulic system. It smooths out the readings so we can see what is happening amongst all the pulses. Possibly, the added resistor drains the capacitor for user safety.

      Lets say that i find the peak voltage is within specification, what would that data indicate as possible fault?

      I believe at that point, the only thing downstream is the individual coils, the plug caps, spark plugs, and they have been swapped without the fault following to the port engine. Stator? Am I still not realizing the complete system?
      Last edited by FabricGATOR; 11-15-2013, 12:39 PM.
      If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

      Comment


      • #33
        Diy dva

        I am now the proud fabricator of a DIY DVA.

        I couldn't find the 400v 2.2mf capacitor and was about to depart Frank's TV repair empty handed when I thought, couldn't we do something like run two 250 volt cap's in series? I asked of Desmond. I didn't know, just a thought.

        He supplied me with two 4.4mf 250v caps and showed me how to connect the polarity properly, thus making a 2.2mf capacitor rated at 500 volts.

        I roughly cobbed this into a spare set of leads and voila!

        http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/a...1&d=1384546584
        Attached Files
        If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

        Comment


        • #34
          told you the cap was the one that causes a problem to find

          Try it and see what you get , no reason to think or look else were until you test.

          Testing things like Yamaha says leads to a more informed troubleshooting process

          Comment


          • #35
            DVA tested

            yah, well that didn't give the expected results.

            (1).002 (2) .010
            (3) .020 (4) .008
            (5).60 (6).011

            she ran like I expected.

            How cpuld she run at souch low voltage? Tequila.
            If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

            Comment


            • #36
              it wont.
              your test equipment is faulty.
              drop the 50 bucks or so and buy the correct stuff.

              mercury and sierra both make an analog meter with a dva function.

              the stevens cd-77 is nice, I own 3, but they are a tad pricey.

              I own 3 cd-77,2 dva adaptors,1 sierra analog and a couple dvm meters.

              test equipment is like rifles. cant have to many.

              Comment


              • #37
                the OX 66 is not YDS compatible.
                it uses a rather primitive diagnostic code lamp that blinks.

                code 33 is warming up/computer adjusting.
                code 1 is normal and above 113*F.

                on OX66 codes are NOT stored and will only display IF its an active code.


                however it will test itself if you understand what and why each sensor is there.

                first look at base ign timing.
                is it fixed at 7*BTDC or someplace about 5*ATDC?

                if its fixed at 7*BTDC you have a sensor issue that is monitored by the ECU.

                the only sensor NOT monitored by the ECU is the O2 sensor.

                try it sometime.
                with the engine idling simply unplug a sensor.
                you will see ign timing advance to 7*BTDC and idle speed increases.

                I once watched a technician/backyardigan get tossed off the back of a 26 regulator with a pair of SX250's.

                while perched precariously on the swim platform while idleing in gear said tech reached around and unplugged the knock sensor.
                the engine instantly reacted by advancing timing,fixing fuel and the idle speed went to about 1200 RPM.
                spaloosh

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by FabricGATOR View Post
                  yah, well that didn't give the expected results.

                  (1).002 (2) .010
                  (3) .020 (4) .008
                  (5).60 (6).011

                  she ran like I expected.

                  How cpuld she run at souch low voltage? Tequila.
                  Oh, man...

                  I see that I put the diode in the wrong place. That's what I get for drinking and soldering!
                  If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post


                    mercury and sierra both make an analog meter with a dva function.

                    the stevens cd-77 is nice, I own 3

                    I own 3 cd-77,2 dva adaptors,1 sierra analog and a couple dvm meters.

                    test equipment is like rifles. cant have to many.
                    I got a Stevens CD-77 off of Ebay. Can't wait to get back to this sometime this week.
                    If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      that fluke wont do what you need unless you buy the DVA adapter.
                      true rms is NOT peak its root mean square or working voltage.
                      its about 70% of peak.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Stevens CD-77

                        So I purchased a Stevens CD-77 used off of Ebay. From what you folks have said of Stevens quality and their generous repair policy, I figured I probably couldn't go wrong.

                        I got the cowl off today, grounded the black lead to a cylinder head bolt and slid back the insulators off of the bullet connectors on the ignition coils.

                        I got her up and running. The CD-77 set to 500 and POS. When reading the STBD bank, they were indicating below the 50 mark, so I lowered the value knob and read about 47 or so on cylinders 1,3,5. I measure the PORT bank at about 90-100 with the value knob set on 500 range.

                        While I was running and testing, the STBD bank began to fire a bit and the idle raised and smoothed out, but I don't believe it had anything to do with what I was working with. I rechecked that side while she was running better and it still indicated in the 50 range. I was idling at 600-700 RPM when tested after it smoothed out.

                        Do I need to repeat at 1500 and 3500 RPM'S? And by loaded are we talking in gear either underway or thrusting tied to the pier (at 3500?? that doesn't sound like a good idea for a backyardigan) Safety is like a bank robbery, nobody moves, nobody get's hurt.

                        Whats my problem? Did I utilize the meter correctly? Does it have an internal battery to check/replace?

                        I also got a merc o tronic Peak Kilovolt meter w/o leads. No manual.
                        If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          I think your stator is failing.
                          loaded simply means with all components connected..
                          your voltage should be the same from bank to bank.
                          the stator contains 2 CDI charge coils.
                          one is for the port bank the other for the stbd bank.
                          the unloaded test simply verifies that a component down stream isn't loading the signal down.,
                          that's why resistance and loaded and unloaded tests are given in the spec guide.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Stator failure.

                            So before I invest in a stator, could I swap them from the SX/LX to ensure that the fault follows the part?

                            I don't have a socket for the flywheel, could anyone advise what the size is so I can run down the Snapon dealer and just buy the right one.
                            If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              I would follow the steps in service manual and test voltages on the 2 charge coils loaded and unloaded.

                              And probably the ohms also
                              Then inspect all wireing and connections to make sure before buying new

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Further testing

                                Thank you for the recommendation. Yes, that is good sound advice. Problem is that to proceed with further testing, I will need either to get the test harnesses or try something like piercing the insulation, poking in through the back of the plug or fashion some hokey form of adapter.

                                Now, that may just be something, if I could fabricate a few (6) loose jumpers that would link the two plugs reliably while having a test point.
                                Of course, it would not be a good as having an adapter plug set for each connector, but backyardigans do have to be resourceful.

                                I got ten each of the parts from allied electronics to fab up DVA's. I am curious how the results will compare to the CD-77 vs my Fluke with the DVA adapter.
                                If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                                Comment

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