Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What Would Cause This...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300
    I've never seen a hub that didn't require pressing in (or the hub would spin in the prop "housing").

    I've only used the one piece center hub (splines inside for the prop shaft), nothing else (beside washer, nut, etc).

    In the VERY early 1980's, the hub I had replaced was easily $30+ . Bet it's quite a bit more now..

    A prop shop can simply press it in and do a quick check everything's straight. Maybe a day's turnover...
    This is a link to the replacement hub I was referring to:
    https://www.propshopinc.com/Quicksil...ewer-p174.html

    It is installed easily by the user.
    Jason
    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
      just in case you did not read my post from before
      also this was on a 35 hp motor, yours maybe close to $100 , call a shop and ask

      the prop itself is different for the owner replaceable hubs
      I now have a Michigan Wheel Ballistic prop with the XHS hub system that I can change myself
      Nah I missed seeing this. My prop is also a michigan wheel, apollo series. It too can accept the XHS or flo-torq II hubs, which as you noted can be installed by the user.
      Jason
      1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

      Comment


      • #18
        I did not realize your prop used those hubs.
        did not look like it in the picture.
        sorry about that misleading info

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
          I did not realize your prop used those hubs.
          did not look like it in the picture.
          sorry about that misleading info
          No worries. Since the replacement hub will be installed by me, is there any way to remove the hub myself without concern of damaging the already damaged hub? Or does removal absolutely required a machine only prop shops have?
          Jason
          1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

          Comment


          • #20
            If it is what you say it is, it does not require a machine shop.

            hammer and punch would be my guess.
            never had to take a spun one out before.

            normally they just slip out and back in, when in good shape

            Comment


            • #21
              I only ask because if the hub is pressed in with a 10 ton hydro press, I imagine it being impossible to bang it out. No? Wouldn't the hub require the same amount of pressure to exact as it was pressed in?
              Jason
              1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

              Comment


              • #22
                they are not pressed in if you have the hub you said you have

                by the way it is always a good idea to have a spare prop in the boat in case it needs to be replaced to get back to the ramp or house
                Last edited by 99yam40; 06-29-2017, 11:50 PM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                  they are not pressed in if you have the hub you said you have
                  Our lines are crossed. The spun hub currently installed is a pressed in hub, as you indicated in your first response to this thread.

                  The replacement hub system I will be using is either the M. Wheel XHS or Flo-Torq, both of which are interchangeable hubs thereby not required to be pressed in .
                  Jason
                  1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Jason you are going to have to take it to a prop shop or a machine shop to have it pressed out...with a hydraulic press. Unless you got a hydraulic press at home with the right size mandrel to push it out...

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Are you positive that your "model year" prop can accept the Flo-Torque? For an FT to work, the inside of the prop hub has to be somewhat square. I guess you'll know when you get the old hub out. Why don't you just have a prop shop ONLY press the old one out for you. You're in Florida - there's gotta be like a gazillion prop shops around. Not that replacing a hub is expensive, but if they're only doing that then it should be much less. Sure beats the amount of time you'll spend messing around with it and endless researchng. Give a guy a couple bones so he can put bread on the table and get 'er done!
                      2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                      1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post
                        Our lines are crossed. The spun hub currently installed is a pressed in hub, as you indicated in your first response to this thread.

                        The replacement hub system I will be using is either the M. Wheel XHS or Flo-Torq, both of which are interchangeable hubs thereby not required to be pressed in .

                        you cannot put a XHS or Flowtorq in a prop that is made for a pressed in hub.
                        they are made different

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I messaged a member on THT who is affiliated with Prop Gods. Sent him pictures front and aft of hub. He is 100% certain the hub is not pressed in, it's the XHS II hub by Michigan Wheel.

                          This was good news to hear...something I can do myself verses taking to a service shop. Bought a replacement hub kit, flo-torq II. Planning to bang out the bad hub this evening and install the new one just in time for a long holiday boating weekend.
                          Jason
                          1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            when new they need no beating, they just slip together and back apart.
                            I have no idea if a hammer is needed or not for one that has spun

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Done, quick and easy. The spun hub took a gentle hammer and tap to remove both pieces. The new kit just slides in, front and aft. Other than replacing spark plugs, this was the easiest part replacement I've experienced.
                              Jason
                              1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Just got very confusing for awhile.
                                good for the weekend of boating.
                                be careful out there, they will be a bunch of crazies on the water too

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X