Are fuel treatments (like Seafoam or Gumout) worth it?

[robert graham]

Makers of Ringfee and Techron is Oronite Additives Division of Chevron....been around a long time....lots of interesting reading regarding many types of additives....marine/outboards just a segment of their business...

[rodbolt17]

real men do not read instructions.
ever.

[rejesterd]

are you saying you did not read the directions on the container when adding to your tank
lots of people seem to do that

I guess it is written on the container, I have not read it myself

Well I had been using Seafoam, not RingFree. And I was using about 1/2 can every time I filled up. Going forward, I'll just do the little 1 oz shot of RingFree.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

are you saying you did not read the directions on the container when adding to your tank
lots of people seem to do that

I guess it is written on the container, I have not read it myself

Regular use, it's labeled.

For shock use it's not. I had to call Yamaha and even that took awhile to get an answer...

[99yam40]

are you saying you did not read the directions on the container when adding to your tank
lots of people seem to do that

I guess it is written on the container, I have not read it myself

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for pointing out the dosage for RingFree.. if it lasts for years, then it's definitely worth the little money it would cost. I do now see that the owner's manual mentions RingFree, thanks. I missed it before.

I agree that I probably won't have lots of carbon buildup issues because it's a newer EFI engine. I'll continue to treat the fuel with RingFree (or an equivalent cleaner that has PEA) just to be safe. I just think I've been treating it way too much over the last year that I've had the boat.. I know it's probably not harmful to the engine if I overdose the treatment, but it's harmful to my wallet.

The RF SHOCK amount is 2 oz / one gallon

Read this thread, post #22 specifically:

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...e-th28109.html

How well RF worked for this member(nothing else done).

And your correct, overdosing with RF only hurts your wallet. I use it on all my customers engines (small yard engines-99% clogged carbs)


.

[rejesterd]

RF regular operational use is 1 oz per 10 gallons. So a regular bottle lasts 320 gallons. Probably MANY years and cheaper in the end for you.

As noted earlier, the RF helps keep the FUEL SYSTEM CLEAN. The combustion chamber cleaner does NOT. You probably already know, it IS recommended in the owners manual to use it.


**Simply look on this forum and at the issues. Fueling (mostly carbs) are about the highest, then cooling, electrical, etc.**


Gas Shok is also 1 oz / 10 Gallons so that goes a long way as well.

Being FI'ed the RF is not nearly as critical as a carbed motor for use.

Your F50 runs a WHOLE lot cleaner than an two stroke, or worse yet a 2 stoke on pre-mix. IE carbon build up shouldn't be much of an issue for you...

Thanks for pointing out the dosage for RingFree.. if it lasts for years, then it's definitely worth the little money it would cost. I do now see that the owner's manual mentions RingFree, thanks. I missed it before.

I agree that I probably won't have lots of carbon buildup issues because it's a newer EFI engine. I'll continue to treat the fuel with RingFree (or an equivalent cleaner that has PEA) just to be safe. I just think I've been treating it way too much over the last year that I've had the boat.. I know it's probably not harmful to the engine if I overdose the treatment, but it's harmful to my wallet.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I plan on using the stabilizer for any fuel that will be stored long-term.

But for the de-carbing agent, I don't see why I should add something like Ring-Free to the fuel tank regularly when I can just use the combustion chamber cleaner to de-carb it once per season. Adding it regularly to the fuel seems like overkill if I'm running the tank down every 2-3 weeks.

RF regular operational use is 1 oz per 10 gallons. So a regular bottle lasts 320 gallons. Probably MANY years and cheaper in the end for you.

As noted earlier, the RF helps keep the FUEL SYSTEM CLEAN. The combustion chamber cleaner does NOT. You probably already know, it IS recommended in the owners manual to use it.


**Simply look on this forum and at the issues. Fueling (mostly carbs) are about the highest, then cooling, electrical, etc.**


Gas Shok is also 1 oz / 10 Gallons so that goes a long way as well.

Being FI'ed the RF is not nearly as critical as a carbed motor for use.

Your F50 runs a WHOLE lot cleaner than an two stroke, or worse yet a 2 stoke on pre-mix. IE carbon build up shouldn't be much of an issue for you...

[rejesterd]

aahhh, the never ending saga of fuel additives. To use or not to use–that is the question...Shakespeare really meant to write.

No matter how good or bad you maintain your OB, use a fuel stabilizer. Pretty much little debate about this, especially because of the large number of unpredictable variables involved.

Adding a de-carbing agent is more debatable, but none can denounce its long term usage benefit, when accompanied with a well maintained engine. Burning of fuel emits carbon. Carbon builds up over time. Running a de-carb agent routinely, or running a de-carbing shock treatment, in the long run will have positive effects on engine performance.

I plan on using the stabilizer for any fuel that will be stored long-term.

But for the de-carbing agent, I don't see why I should add something like Ring-Free to the fuel tank regularly when I can just use the combustion chamber cleaner to de-carb it once per season. Adding it regularly to the fuel seems like overkill if I'm running the tank down every 2-3 weeks.

[Jason2tpa]

aahhh, the never ending saga of fuel additives. To use or not to use–that is the question...Shakespeare really meant to write.

No matter how good or bad you maintain your OB, use a fuel stabilizer. Pretty much little debate about this, especially because of the large number of unpredictable variables involved.

Adding a de-carbing agent is more debatable, but none can denounce its long term usage benefit, when accompanied with a well maintained engine. Burning of fuel emits carbon. Carbon builds up over time. Running a de-carb agent routinely, or running a de-carbing shock treatment, in the long run will have positive effects on engine performance.

[99yam40]

never seen an expiration date on any of these things

[rejesterd]

For the low down, I suggest sending Rodbolt17 a PM. I'm with oldmako69 on the fresh fuel, but take it to the extreme.

I had ethanol issues with our 90TLR years ago and tossed the entire system upstream of the connection to the outboard. I then rigged a $26 electric solenoid fuel pump from rock auto with a 12V plug and fuel hose and replaced all straight lengths of fuel line with 3/8" ACR copper tubing. I pump all fuel from the boat into the truck, drain the bowls and filters and leave tanks open and upside down to dry between trips and off season. I replace the remaining short lengths of fuel line every two years or so in ten minutes for ten bucks. Haven't used fuel stabilizer and haven't had issue since. For me, no fuel means none to go bad.

On occasion more rare than I like to admit I'll toss in some carb cleaner or Marvin's Mystery Oil. Since my only experience is our 5:1 compression ratio old tech two-stroke that burns anything clean, I suggest religiously sticking to the owner's manual. Yea, the Ring Free is pricy, but a bargain for the few times used compared to hourly marine tech rates.

I suspect you never use more than ten or twelve gallons on a trip with that F50 and can't get to the ramp without passing a gas station. Based on this assumption, I suggest you consider doing same as me. Can't guide you on the fuel in the motor.

Thanks. I like the idea of using an electric pump to empty the fuel tank for long term storage. Mine is only 11 gallons, but I'm not sure if I can easily remove it. If I can do it though, that'd be great. The fuel treatment costs do add up over time.. possibly hundreds of dollars over the life of the boat. So I don't want to do it if it's really not necessary.

Since I have a fuel-injected engine, I'm going to continue fogging it using Yamaha's directions on their newer "EFI Fogging Oil". This way, I only need to treat about 2 gallons of gas with stabilizer per season (which means a very small amount of stabilizer is needed). In other words, I only need to treat the gas & fogging oil mixture that I run through the engine just before draining the vapor separator (as fairdeal pointed out in Yamaha's Off-Season Storage doc) and storing it for the winter. I like that.

I guess my question now is: what's the shelf life of the Yamalube Fuel Stabilizer? (not Ring-Free, but the long-term stabilizer). I still have 1/2 a bottle from last fall that I haven't used.. hoping it stays good for more than a year.

[throrope]

For the low down, I suggest sending Rodbolt17 a PM. I'm with oldmako69 on the fresh fuel, but take it to the extreme.

I had ethanol issues with our 90TLR years ago and tossed the entire system upstream of the connection to the outboard. I then rigged a $26 electric solenoid fuel pump from rock auto with a 12V plug and fuel hose and replaced all straight lengths of fuel line with 3/8" ACR copper tubing. I pump all fuel from the boat into the truck, drain the bowls and filters and leave tanks open and upside down to dry between trips and off season. I replace the remaining short lengths of fuel line every two years or so in ten minutes for ten bucks. Haven't used fuel stabilizer and haven't had issue since. For me, no fuel means none to go bad.

On occasion more rare than I like to admit I'll toss in some carb cleaner or Marvin's Mystery Oil. Since my only experience is our 5:1 compression ratio old tech two-stroke that burns anything clean, I suggest religiously sticking to the owner's manual. Yea, the Ring Free is pricy, but a bargain for the few times used compared to hourly marine tech rates.

I suspect you never use more than ten or twelve gallons on a trip with that F50 and can't get to the ramp without passing a gas station. Based on this assumption, I suggest you consider doing same as me. Can't guide you on the fuel in the motor.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My boat doesn't see storage.

If you use your boat very often and keep fresh fuel (no more than a month), you should be good.

I have a 60 gallon built in tank and with my F150, use approx 5 gallons a day(stop and start). IE, much of my fuel stays in the tank well over a month, closer to a year

I use RF regularly (since 2007) more so to keep the fuel system clean. Never had my VST apart, never yanked injectors, runs like a top.

I would strongly suggest running a stabilizer. Either "Gas Shok" or "K100".
All are not cheap..

I had a bad experience with Stabil years ago (varnish build up a MONTH LATER in the mower carb, float bowl using it)

If running RF and a fuel stabilizer saves me issues down the road, (especially carbed engines), to me, it's well worth it...

I run RF in EVERY engine I own, car, mower, generator, etc...And any fuel saved in the garage (for hurricane season) has Gas Shok in it.

Before I re-powered in 2007, my old Evinrude V6 150(carbed 2 stroke), clogged the jets from old fuel. Pulled them, cleaned, ran good, TILL the following weekend.. Clogged up AGAIN!..

Cleaned them, spoke to the marina, they recommended the "Gas Shok".
Put that in, NEVER had another clogged carb on that engine, NEVER..

So, for me, that $40.00 bottle (that does last quite awhile), could have saved me two full carb cleanings, two wasted weekends, etc..

Seafoam is pretty good, just not as strong as the RF (use it for storage mostly-just a tad poured down each cylinder, cranked over (not started) and spark plug re-installed.

[rejesterd]

there's a "sticky" post here on this forum - "Winterize, Off season Storage"

the post is a bit odd - guess it was written by a "mod"? -

but it includes a link to download a .pdf of a Yamaha "Marine Technical Guide" article
that IMO is helpful

I remember looking at this (or a very similar doc) last fall, but then I saw a video on Yamaha's website that instructed owners to not spray traditional fogging oil into the air intake, but instead run the new EFI fogging oil through the fuel lines instead. Here's the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBlqjRQ5Ba0

Maybe they need to update that doc.