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  • 1990 130 ETXD carb removal question...

    Hello, I am new here, lots of great info.

    I have to remove and clean the carbs on my 1990 130v4 2 strokes motor, one needle valve is stuck (pouring gas) and it's time for a clean up.
    I have the service manual, I already got the rebuild kits from our host.
    Now , before I start, I am a bit apprehensive about removing the carb linkage and mess something up. The manual isn't giving much detail about how to unclip the linkage between the 2 carbs.
    Is there any recommendation on how to go about this?
    I'll take tons of pictures before hand and try to mark the position as much as I can but I was wondering if this was gonna be a nightmare to synchronize afterward.

    I'll also keep a note of the idle air/mixture screw by screwing in until lightly seated and counting the turns for re-installed right?

    Thank you.

    Fmt
    1990 Yamaha 130v4 130ETXD.

  • #2
    I cannot figure out from your post you know how to fix things or you don't.
    How do you know valve stuck

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by fmt2bx98050 View Post
      Hello, I am new here, lots of great info.

      I have to remove and clean the carbs on my 1990 130v4 2 strokes motor, one needle valve is stuck (pouring gas) and it's time for a clean up.
      I have the service manual, I already got the rebuild kits from our host.
      Now , before I start, I am a bit apprehensive about removing the carb linkage and mess something up. The manual isn't giving much detail about how to unclip the linkage between the 2 carbs.
      Is there any recommendation on how to go about this?
      I'll take tons of pictures before hand and try to mark the position as much as I can but I was wondering if this was gonna be a nightmare to synchronize afterward.

      I'll also keep a note of the idle air/mixture screw by screwing in until lightly seated and counting the turns for re-installed right?

      Thank you.

      Fmt
      Are the linkages quick disconnect? Meaning do they have a ball and socket on the end of each linkage? They just pop off if that is what you got...

      Pictures are great for reassembly, take lots. Post a couple here if you want, someone here may have the same setup and can tell you what and what not disturb.

      Do you proper Yamaha manual?

      Do one carb at time, on a clean bench or table. I got a couple of McDonald's food trays just for doing carbs. Make sure you blow out all the passages and can see light through the Jets.

      Seat the idle mixture screws so they just touch....counting the turns. I put a sharpie mark on the handle of screwdriver to help keep track of the turns.

      Just take your time and all will be good.

      Biggest mistake I see in carb cleaning is people using crappy screwdrivers and tearing the Jets up when taking them out.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by amahaork View Post
        I cannot figure out from your post you know how to fix things or you don't.
        How do you know valve stuck
        Sorry yeah, should have said, I use to own a Force for years and did all the maintenance on it.
        When I prime the fuel line the bottom carb is spilling fuel from inside . (probably stuck needle).

        Thanks
        1990 Yamaha 130v4 130ETXD.

        Comment


        • #5
          Before you remove carbs, follow manual procedure for adjusting timing, carburetor linkage and oil pump linkage. What manual do you have, Yamaha or clymer

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by panasonic View Post
            Are the linkages quick disconnect? Meaning do they have a ball and socket on the end of each linkage? They just pop off if that is what you got...

            Pictures are great for reassembly, take lots. Post a couple here if you want, someone here may have the same setup and can tell you what and what not disturb.

            Do you proper Yamaha manual?

            Do one carb at time, on a clean bench or table. I got a couple of McDonald's food trays just for doing carbs. Make sure you blow out all the passages and can see light through the Jets.

            Seat the idle mixture screws so they just touch....counting the turns. I put a sharpie mark on the handle of screwdriver to help keep track of the turns.

            Just take your time and all will be good.

            Biggest mistake I see in carb cleaning is people using crappy screwdrivers and tearing the Jets up when taking them out.
            Ok great thanks a lot for your reply. I 'll take some pics and post them here.

            I have the Yamaha service manual LIT-18616-00-50 that's all I could find available on the yamaha website. Is that good enough or is there something more substantial out there?

            Thanks again.
            Last edited by fmt2bx98050; 05-12-2017, 10:00 PM. Reason: incomplete
            1990 Yamaha 130v4 130ETXD.

            Comment


            • #7
              I recommend you to check only carb needle in question, then adjust. Are fuel pumps old? Replace them

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by amahaork View Post
                I recommend you to check only carb needle in question, then adjust. Are fuel pumps old? Replace them
                Are the floats adjustable in those carbs?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by fmt2bx98050 View Post
                  Ok great thanks a lot for your reply. I 'll take some pics and post them here.

                  I have the Yamaha service manual LIT-18616-00-50 that's all I could find available on the yamaha website. Is that good enough or is there something more substantial out there?

                  Thanks again.
                  I don't know about the manual, your particular model should be listed in the first few pages of the manual if it is the proper one.

                  Sometimes there is a supplement that goes with the basic manual. Mr Bosceo on here would know that.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by amahaork View Post
                    I recommend you to check only carb needle in question, then adjust. Are fuel pumps old? Replace them
                    Good question. Not sure how old pump is, This motor is new to me and I will check the fuel system and oil injection system as well.
                    This motor was on a boat before I got it and I had a few hours of testing on lake, all was good, idle neutral 700rpm, idle in gear 600rpm for 30 min without any hesitation or rough idling, max rpm was around 5700 with 19" prop, compression was 125 on all cylinders.
                    I had to lay the motor flat for a day while I was removing my other motor from boat. I think that, this is when the needle got stuck.
                    Previous owner said that carbs had been rebuilt 2 seasons ago. At least when I open the problem carb, I'll have a better sense of the state of things.

                    I am planning to check the fuel system, pump, hoses etc.. as well as oil injection system, pump output, hoses etc..

                    At least that way I'll know what I've got and I'll have that piece of mind that it has been checked and is working according to specs.

                    I'll hate to trash that great sounding motor just for relying on words of previous owner and being too lazy to check myself.

                    Here is what I've got as far as manual:



                    Good enough? Suggestions?

                    Thank you very much.

                    Cheers
                    Last edited by fmt2bx98050; 05-26-2017, 04:15 PM.
                    1990 Yamaha 130v4 130ETXD.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by panasonic View Post
                      Are the floats adjustable in those carbs?
                      Manual, says:
                      Measure float height (16mm), if higher or lower, recheck the valve seat and needle-valve.


                      Yeah, wouldn't be surprised if there is a supplemental manual for the general service manual. But can't seem to find anything on line....
                      1990 Yamaha 130v4 130ETXD.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fmt2bx98050 View Post
                        Manual, says:
                        Measure float height (16mm), if higher or lower, recheck the valve seat and needle-valve.


                        Yeah, wouldn't be surprised if there is a supplemental manual for the general service manual. But can't seem to find anything on line....
                        Did you get new floats in the kits? Are they plastic?

                        Sounds like they are not adjustable to me or the manual would tell you to bend the little metal tab on the float to correct the float height. Could be wrong though.

                        Probably rubber tip on needle worn or dirt/varnish on seat.

                        Is this the only problem you are having...the engine running good up till this point and time.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by panasonic View Post
                          Did you get new floats in the kits? Are they plastic?

                          Sounds like they are not adjustable to me or the manual would tell you to bend the little metal tab on the float to correct the float height. Could be wrong though.

                          Probably rubber tip on needle worn or dirt/varnish on seat.

                          Is this the only problem you are having...the engine running good up till this point and time.
                          Yes, kit came with plastic floats. I believe you are right, not adjustable at tab just good seat of needle and should be at 16mm.

                          This motor is new to me, it was on another boat and I was able to run a few hours test on the lake with it. Good idle at neutral, 700 rpm, idle gear 600rpm for a good 20 min without running rough or stalling, good acceleration (no hesitation) to WOT. max rpm was 5700 rpm with 19" prop (stainless) on a 19' byliner capri 2 ppl on board.

                          Compression was at 125 on all cylinders. It all looked good to me.
                          I had to lay the engine flat for a day while I was removing my old motor so i guess this is when the float/needle got stuck.
                          Not sure but I suspect that previous owner was using ethanol gas, as it is becoming extremely difficult to find non-ethanol in our area. Thankfully, I have access to ethanol free gas so this is what I'll use exclusively from now on.
                          Well, I'll have a better idea of the state of things when I open carb to check needle.

                          My plan is to check the fuel system thoroughly, pump, hoses etc.. as well as Oil injection system, hoses, pump debit according to manual.

                          That way I'll know exactly what I've got and will have that piece of mind. I can't only rely on words of previous owner and trash the motor because I was too lazy to check.right?
                          Thank you for your help, I'll post pictures of the Plan......
                          1990 Yamaha 130v4 130ETXD.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            16 +/- 0.5 mm it is. I check it on my service manual for 130T. It has only one fuel pump.
                            Last edited by amahaork; 05-13-2017, 12:02 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by fmt2bx98050 View Post
                              Yes, kit came with plastic floats. I believe you are right, not adjustable at tab just good seat of needle and should be at 16mm.

                              This motor is new to me, it was on another boat and I was able to run a few hours test on the lake with it. Good idle at neutral, 700 rpm, idle gear 600rpm for a good 20 min without running rough or stalling, good acceleration (no hesitation) to WOT. max rpm was 5700 rpm with 19" prop (stainless) on a 19' byliner capri 2 ppl on board.

                              Compression was at 125 on all cylinders. It all looked good to me.
                              I had to lay the engine flat for a day while I was removing my old motor so i guess this is when the float/needle got stuck.
                              Not sure but I suspect that previous owner was using ethanol gas, as it is becoming extremely difficult to find non-ethanol in our area. Thankfully, I have access to ethanol free gas so this is what I'll use exclusively from now on.
                              Well, I'll have a better idea of the state of things when I open carb to check needle.

                              My plan is to check the fuel system thoroughly, pump, hoses etc.. as well as Oil injection system, hoses, pump debit according to manual.

                              That way I'll know exactly what I've got and will have that piece of mind. I can't only rely on words of previous owner and trash the motor because I was too lazy to check.right?
                              Thank you for your help, I'll post pictures of the Plan......
                              Only 27 years young what possible could be wrong with it...lol

                              Sounds like a good plan to me. I suspect when you laid it on its side some crap in the bottom of that carb bowl came loose and is now jammed between the needle and seat.

                              Did you try tapping the float bowl with a screwdriver handle while this overflowing was occurring? Sometimes this will stop that. Not the right way to fix it but might save you a stink of gas in the shop.

                              Comment

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