Marinetex repair lie expectency

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your welcome Joe.

For others, the water he's currently using is GROUND, WELL WATER, un-treated and not run thru an aerator, softener, etc...

(When we moved down here (1979), we were on well water too, and YES, it smells like rotten eggs, will leave major water spots on any surface, nasty).

Once the water runs thru the water treatment system, it won't be bad at all.

Joe, you already know that PVC / facet fix won't be hard, I'd just use some extra plastic clip's to secure it.


***Also, ANY PVC I have in the sun, (say 3/4"), I get the next size up too and slice a WIDE SLOT down the length of it.

Then I cut it to length and literally "SNAP" it OVER the original pipe. As hard as the sun is down here, you'll get MANY more years out of the pipe before it becomes brittle...

Painting the PVC too will make it last longer too...

My dad's main house on/off CPVC valve broke over time (nothing left to turn) which we replaced probably 6 months ago (east side of the house). After replacement, that short section, to keep the sun off it, I double up aluminum foil and wrap it around the pipe /valve to keep the sun off it.

You can tape it A/C foil tape if you want but it's usually fine wrapped around the pipe or facet by itself.

[cpostis]

Your welcome Joe.

For others, the water he's currently using is GROUND, WELL WATER, un-treated and not run thru an aerator, softener, etc...

(When we moved down here (1979), we were on well water too, and YES, it smells like rotten eggs, will leave major water spots on any surface, nasty).

Once the water runs thru the water treatment system, it won't be bad at all.

Joe, you already know that PVC / facet fix won't be hard, I'd just use some extra plastic clip's to secure it.


***Also, ANY PVC I have in the sun, (say 3/4"), I get the next size up too and slice a WIDE SLOT down the length of it.

Then I cut it to length and literally "SNAP" it OVER the original pipe. As hard as the sun is down here, you'll get MANY more years out of the pipe before it becomes brittle...

Painting the PVC too will make it last longer too...

My dad's main house on/off CPVC valve broke over time (nothing left to turn) which we replaced probably 6 months ago (east side of the house). After replacement, that short section, to keep the sun off it, I double up aluminum foil and wrap it around the pipe /valve to keep the sun off it.

You can tape it A/C foil tape if you want but it's usually fine wrapped around the pipe or facet by itself.

Joe, Scott:
Although PVC pipe manufacturers for years past had UV breakdown problems, todays US manufacturers use Titanium Dioxide as for UV inhibitors.

You'll be safe with US schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings. However, consider pressure and flow drop through fittings and valves. Rather than using 90 degree fittings I would consider using electrical schedule 40"sweep coming out of the ground to feed your pipe riser (riser can use electrical as well, for color match), then use a 45 degree to feed your valve. The valve I would use would be a brass full port ball valve that opens 100%. Use a minimum of 5/8" diameter garden hose as short as possible to feed your muffs.

Believe me, you'll have a great advantage in water flow and great improvement in flushing your engine.

[IMG]Hose Bib by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Interesting about the inhibitors and about time!

I agree with the above and I probably have 1" or 3/4" buried in the ground from 3 decades ago (probably 1"). All connections were 90's, maybe one 45 degree.

For the dock, there is NO exposed pipe(all buried). I do have another bib (for the davits) that the pipe is exposed (and I think I used schedule 40-again years ago). That I put the extra split pipe.

Also on the dock, lamp post, I have fresh water shower and that is "double piped". I won't buy anything but schedule 40 anymore...

I have exactly 55 PSI at the hose bib (just checked). With that said, for my 150, it'll run all day on the muffs and won't overheat.

All my outside plumbing projects are done, but depending on Joe's pressure / volume, it may be worth it.


The first pic, all the way to the right, you can just see the dock lamp post, and attached to that(in black), the fresh water shower).
The trenches were dug when the post lift was installed and I had to run a line from the davit area hose bib, to the dock lift..

[jcclub47]

Yes, I plan on having it welded in 200 hours. At that time I can clean any salt out thoroughly. By that time I should be off well water completely.

Thanks
Joe

[jcclub47]

Thanks Scott, I do have a hose bib on the house I can get to and will be using it for all my flushes until I fix the dock. And no more 5 minute flushes, from now on 15 minutes.

Joe

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks Scott, I do have a hose bib on the house I can get to and will be using it for all my flushes until I fix the dock. And no more 5 minute flushes, from now on 15 minutes.

Joe

Yepper..

Running on muffs I hope, so the thermostat OPENS...

[cpostis]

Yepper..

Running on muffs I hope, so the thermostat OPENS...

Just flushed my motor this morning in a tank. I feel so confident that my thermostats open when I have warm water in the tank. I can feel a temperature difference between the thermostat housing and the head to confirm that t-stat is closed. When it/they open, not much of a difference In temp.

[IMG]Flushino by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[jcclub47]

Yes, I got the Yamaha muffs, they don't slip off and cook your pump.

[pstephens46]

Just flushed my motor this morning in a tank. I feel so confident that my thermostats open when I have warm water in the tank. I can feel a temperature difference between the thermostat housing and the head to confirm that t-stat is closed. When it/they open, not much of a difference In temp.

[IMG]Flushino by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

Those leaves and pinestraw in front of transom are gonna drive Townsend crazy!

[cpostis]

Those leaves and pinestraw in front of transom are gonna drive Townsend crazy!

Yup, pulled the cover off the boat and dumped in on the deck being careless. Got a few oaks and plenty of pines on the property. The boat's kept under an Oak. The pines are quite away, but do blow pine straw sometimes, no sap from them

Haven't used the boat for about a month.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those leaves and pinestraw in front of transom are gonna drive Townsend crazy! / Haven't used the boat for about a month.

I used my boat before you did, where's my calendar?

I can help fix your mower / weed-eater to clean up that "forest" you got there!!

I saw Home Depo had a sale on yard "Rakes" too!!!!


As a real side note, the canal water temp is about 70F. When my engine is started cold, in cold water,
it'll idle at about 800 RPM's. It'll take maybe 2 minutes for the idle to drop down to 700 (normal idle).
Colder water, it'll take even longer to idle down to 700.

Basically, once the idle drops to normal (for this engine), the engine water temp is about normal / thermostat
most likely open. Again, that's 2 minutes in 70'F water. Running on muffs for 15 minutes is way plenty and the
thermostat should be getting water on both sides..