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F150 Stalls when put in gear

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  • #46
    My f150 will hesitate when stone cold. Such as backing off trailer at ramp. Not when warm however.

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    • #47
      Just curious(not recommending)could the idle be slightly increased by just drilling small hole in each of the throttle plates without touching anything or readjusting sensors. Once again..thinking to myself appreciate your thoughts ??

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      • #48
        why all the work with a Drill????

        why not simply fix the machine?

        it is incredibly simple.

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        • #49
          OK, eventually I'm thinking of getting a new F150 to replace my SX150txrz (2001). Why all the fuss on this?
          Chuck,
          1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Nautical View Post
            Just curious(not recommending)could the idle be slightly increased by just drilling small hole in each of the throttle plates without touching anything or readjusting sensors. Once again..thinking to myself appreciate your thoughts ??
            It could be.

            But wouldn't it be easier to simply crack the throttle valves open using on screw driver instead of drilling four throttle valves and then having to clean up the motor to ensure no swarf or swill got ingesting into the intake?

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            • #51
              Not thinking of doing it and of course a lot easy to open the throttle up a bit mechanically , but I was just theorizing as I said in my statement. Merely a thought if someone did not want to mess with changing original engine sensor settings .

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              • #52
                there is a new procedure to follow when setting everything, it is different than the original in the early manuals.
                it keeps the motor from stalling when shifting into gear from what I heard/read.

                if you do not have a problem you do not have to change anything, but if you are having the stalling problem then just follow the new procedure when setting.

                no reason to start destroying parts to see if you can get it corrected

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                • #53
                  Who? what? destroyed ???

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                  • #54
                    drilling holes in things destroys them,
                    where they do not function as they should from the factory

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                      drilling holes in things destroys them,
                      where they do not function as they should from the factory
                      Sir, this method is used commonly in the automotive tuning world for idle control with specific engine tuning parameters..Will not destroy the throttle body as you suggest.. I think Holley makes them with drilled holes for many applications.Can always be soldered closed if necessary. In closing I agree with Rod and Boscoe that cracking and adjusting is a lot simpler, I merely posed the thought as a theory for discussion. I apologize if it was interpreted as a better fix for the stalling/low idle than what Yamaha servicing specifies in previous threads

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Nautical View Post
                        Sir, this method is used commonly in the automotive tuning world for idle control with specific engine tuning parameters..Will not destroy the throttle body as you suggest.. I think Holley makes them with drilled holes for many applications.Can always be soldered closed if necessary. In closing I agree with Rod and Boscoe that cracking and adjusting is a lot simpler, I merely posed the thought as a theory for discussion. I apologize if it was interpreted as a better fix for the stalling/low idle than what Yamaha servicing specifies in previous threads
                        There's nothing wrong with throwing an idea out there. I agree with both sides, drilling a hole is NOT destroying anything. Modifications for different engines and different applications vs factory parts is done successfully all the time..

                        But, there is a newer way to fix the low idle issue (on the F150), so really there's no reason to modify anything.

                        I don't know how the master tech fixed mine, I believe it was before the updated procedure came out, but I have no issues now...

                        Idea's are always welcome as far as I'm concerned...
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by Nautical View Post
                          I apologize if it was interpreted as a better fix for the stalling/low idle than what Yamaha servicing specifies in previous threads
                          I took it as an alternate, not a better, approach. However, once drilled and found incorrect, it would be difficult to correct the issue so as to achieve the desired results. Too small an opening, drill larger, too large, solder and drill again......so, thanks for the suggestion but I don't think its a good approach.

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by Nautical View Post
                            Sir, this method is used commonly in the automotive tuning world for idle control with specific engine tuning parameters..Will not destroy the throttle body as you suggest.. I think Holley makes them with drilled holes for many applications.Can always be soldered closed if necessary. In closing I agree with Rod and Boscoe that cracking and adjusting is a lot simpler, I merely posed the thought as a theory for discussion. I apologize if it was interpreted as a better fix for the stalling/low idle than what Yamaha servicing specifies in previous threads
                            Are yes you just made me reflect back to the good old days of modifying and tuning GM LS1 engines...... uninstall the MAF and throw away in the rubbish bin with it being soooo restrictive. Install a more aggressive cam, head work, Edit and tune the LS1B con*****er to run mafless and ALSO drill a hole in the throttle plate to get the sucker to idle on the lumpier cam...... then do the final fine tuning.

                            To be honest when I first read about the F150 idling issue, and reading about the solution "RODBOLT" came up with and the procedures and reasons why he did what he did, it reminded me of the same reasons and results of what we did back in the day to the LS1 engines. The only difference is, the F150 has a nice easy screw to adjust to crack open the throttle plates.
                            But you never know, in the next revamped "NEW AND IMPROVED" release of the F150, Yamaha might incorporate holes in the plates to fully resolve the idle issue so no adjustment is needed in future and all F150's will idle happily.

                            We can only but dream at this stage

                            Its amazing how over time there has been big improvements in sensor, injector and ECM component technology..... but have still noticed the odd manufacturer still using old technology in todays motors.... some times with that it gives you the feeling of being a bit "ripped off" so to speak, but oh well them's the breaks

                            Cheers
                            Scotty

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                              Glad its better but it still shouldn't have any hesitation...

                              i can either accelerate slow or nail it from idle with no hesitation...

                              You may try some RingFree (if not already).

                              I had a running issue at 5300 RPM's and new spark plugs fixed that
                              (with low hours on the engine)..
                              Immediately after adding the Ringfree it now stumbles occasionally after turning it on. The rpms will hover around 500 before coming up to 700.

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by BigRich123 View Post
                                Immediately after adding the Ringfree it now stumbles occasionally after turning it on. The rpms will hover around 500 before coming up to 700.
                                Sounds like it loosened some crap up.

                                Give it a couple of good runs and dissolve all the carp you loosened up..
                                Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 08-14-2016, 01:42 PM.
                                Scott
                                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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