YDS, version 1.33, diagnostic question

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent thanks for the great photos and comments pretty sure i should be able to locate it this weekend !!!!

Mike

Your welcome...



Just a side note, the engine balancer has been updated from Yamaha to a type 4.

If you don't have a type 4, I'd strongly suggest you replace it. Earlier models have failed spewing "teeth" thru out the engine.

Back in 2012, Yamaha replaced mine with a type 3(under warranty). It's since been updated to the type 4. Any kind of "whine" you can hear from it (like a super-charger) is NOT good.

You can do it yourself in 1-1.5 hours taking your time..

My old type 3:


Block ready for the new one:

[Tunamike]

com port

Excellent thanks for the great photos and comments pretty sure i should be able to locate it this weekend !!!!

Mike

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Could anyone spot a picture or give good description my issue is i got the YDS all loaded , comm 1 etc etc ready to try and find come and go misfire and I can not for the life of me find the port on the engine. I have been told is below the front cover hatch and it does not seem to be there . I have searched and searched for manual , you tube whatever to find it and I cant . One you tube looks to maybe hooking it to the port side of engine close to one of the coil packs!! any assistance would be graciously accepted .


LF150TXR SERIAL 1005821

Thanks Mike

Here ya go Mike, my 06 F150:

[boscoe99]

The port is covered with a cap. Dark gray in colour. The cap has a bit of fishing line to keep it from being lost.

The YDIS coupler is below and to the left of the ECU.

https://www.google.com/search?q=yama...hDlNlEGOKWnhM:

[Tunamike]

2005 f150 comm port

Could anyone spot a picture or give good description my issue is i got the YDS all loaded , comm 1 etc etc ready to try and find come and go misfire and I can not for the life of me find the port on the engine. I have been told is below the front cover hatch and it does not seem to be there . I have searched and searched for manual , you tube whatever to find it and I cant . One you tube looks to maybe hooking it to the port side of engine close to one of the coil packs!! any assistance would be graciously accepted .


LF150TXR SERIAL 1005821

Thanks Mike

[99yam40]

just the real fine powdery top smooth layer, left it a little rough with the coarser sand type of feeling and looks

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, I haven't had it apart at all and in use 2-3 years maybe...Just the driveway and dock...

That's surprising the newish concrete come up...

[99yam40]

they do work well when they work properly.
do not use a fairly new concrete, just on old.

I was working on our pastors pressure washer at his house and took one along to let him use at his daughters residence once I got his running again, and went to show him how these work on his driveway.
there was a dark spot at the downspout of gutters system on driveway, so I told him to try it there.
it made lots of swill marks. took the top layer off the fairly new concrete

look at pic #3, right where the Allen head SS center pin/bolt is coming out of the brass piece. there is a little bit of the Teflon bearing coming up and out. Seen it on mine and on some of the others I won bids on.
I will have to take a picture of the next one I take apart. hard to explain if you have not seen the inside of one yet.

It is not Teflon tape, but the stuff cold flowing out reminds me of it being so thin.

when took apart you can see it coming off of the bearing/seal part and that the part does not fill the gap as well as it should along with not being the correct shape when it is real bad.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

2nd & 3rd pic shows the angle I was looking for,
somewhere close to 20 to 30 degrees is my guess.
definitely not a 45
has to have a little angle to get it to spin enough but not too fast.
thanks for the reply

by the way I see in the 3rd pic that there is some Teflon from those bearings/seals oosing out/cold flowing out. those are the ones I was trying to find and have not had any luck finding replacements on line anywhere. should be simple to replace if you can find them.
once they cold flow enough the water just blows by them reducing the pressure to the jets and stops the arms from spinning.

I have a friend that made me a set on his metal layth out of fiber/grafite reinforced teflon.
seems to work ok, but may wear the brass down at the seal points

everything is locktited and is metric. there are set screws on the brass fitting to help lock the pipes/rods in place, but I have found nothing to fit them to unscrew them. They have not stopped me from unscrewing the threaded pipes from the center brass fitting to clean out the excess locktite and relocktite & adjust the angle after someone has run the cleaners over loose debris hitting the arms and knocking them out of proper angle

might want to dial back the pressure a little since they are only rated for 3300 psi.
not sure if overpressure is what causes the cold flow or not, but my 2200psi @ 3GPM works fine when cleaning concrete

Glad that could help. I didn't look close at the teflon / sealer, might be the liquid goo the plumbers use (and rarely leak)

I have a "Northern branded" commercial 9 HP Honda with a CAT (BLUE) pump, 3300 or 3400 PSI, 3-3.5 GPH tip) (and a spare pump with slightly higher pressure).

I don't have to "push" the circular washer, it pretty much "floats"over the concrete. Just kinda aim and shove if set at max RPM's ...

Knocks out the driveway in 1/4 the time as before!! And no streaks...

[99yam40]

2nd & 3rd pic shows the angle I was looking for,
somewhere close to 20 to 30 degrees is my guess.
definitely not a 45
has to have a little angle to get it to spin enough but not too fast.
thanks for the reply

by the way I see in the 3rd pic that there is some Teflon from those bearings/seals oosing out/cold flowing out. those are the ones I was trying to find and have not had any luck finding replacements on line anywhere. should be simple to replace if you can find them.
once they cold flow enough the water just blows by them reducing the pressure to the jets and stops the arms from spinning.

I have a friend that made me a set on his metal layth out of fiber/grafite reinforced teflon.
seems to work ok, but may wear the brass down at the seal points

everything is locktited and is metric. there are set screws on the brass fitting to help lock the pipes/rods in place, but I have found nothing to fit them to unscrew them. They have not stopped me from unscrewing the threaded pipes from the center brass fitting to clean out the excess locktite and relocktite & adjust the angle after someone has run the cleaners over loose debris hitting the arms and knocking them out of proper angle

might want to dial back the pressure a little since they are only rated for 3300 psi.
not sure if overpressure is what causes the cold flow or not, but my 2200psi @ 3GPM works fine when cleaning concrete

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott, you have a pm on something totally different than this thread.

also what web page are you being redirected from?

This is where the link eventually brings you to:
https://www.manageengine.com/product...FZNZhgodG80Ahw


Re the PM (a "pressure washer attachment" question for driveways), here's
some pic's I just took of mine.

The "rods" screw into the center piece (loctited I would think)
so you can adjust that angle to your liking.

Mine, as you can see are close to pointing straight down.
Why you'd want it off to the side wouldn't clean as well,
just spin up faster..

The rods them selves, at the end appear to be 90 degrees,
where the "jets" screw in:

[99yam40]

Scott, you have a pm on something totally different than this thread.

also what web page are you being redirected from?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

- you can download a free & simple program to read .csv files such as

CSV Viewer


- to capture what you are seeing on the screen,

just press simultaneously the "Windows" key (left bottom row of keyboard)

and the "PrntScrn" key (upper right)

that will place a .jpg in your "pictures" folder:

I'm getting directed to a "free trial" page that doesn't appear to be the same as the first page..?

[fairdeal]

Saving a pic of the engine operation(F2) was a "CSV" program which we couldn't open... Finally got the above screen, snipped it to up-load here..

I wish (and thought I saw) I could get the same pic as what's on the puter as the engines running...

- you can download a free & simple program to read .csv files such as

CSV Viewer


- to capture what you are seeing on the screen,

just press simultaneously the "Windows" key (left bottom row of keyboard)

and the "PrntScrn" key (upper right)

that will place a .jpg in your "pictures" folder:

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Damn, maybe that is why parts prices are so high. They are apparently spending time and money just updating parts for the hellavit.

From what I've read, the version 4 just has more gear lash and is quieter. Same exact oiling set up (with a nozzle).

I suspect, today, they could have EASILY told me I NEED a version 4, but didn't.

Sooo, kudo's for being honest to me and hopefully save others some $ / work, as well...



BTW, even thou my idle dropped to 700 (or so as usual), being hooked up to the YDS, I was very surprised,
how long it took the engine temp to get up to normal operating 138F (OPENING thermostat range is 136-144F). Maybe 4-5 minutes, about 70F water on the muff's... Seems I'm going to be running a little longer with the Salt Away to make sure the T-stat IS open..