2007 F6 Throttle Return Spring

[thedcpnn]

When I moved the black piece of plastic with the small hole in picture 2, the tiller twist throttle moves. For example in picture two if I pull that towards me then the tiller throttle returns to idle, when I push that piece it opens the throttle.

So it seems this piece should have a spring of some sort but it's not in the diagrams and I can't find any other spring along the throttle linkage.

[zenoahphobic]

Those pictures show a fairly new well greased motor, can only suggest somethings broke ; need to trace the mechanism from engine to tiller arm.
Not much help without more pictures.

[99yam40]

When I moved the black piece of plastic with the small hole in picture 2, the tiller twist throttle moves. For example in picture two if I pull that towards me then the tiller throttle returns to idle, when I push that piece it opens the throttle.

So it seems this piece should have a spring of some sort but it's not in the diagrams and I can't find any other spring along the throttle linkage.

I agree you need to find a motor like yours to compare parts to

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There are big differences in the F6 and F60

Obviously I put in F60, F6, yes, there would be some differences........

Looking at this parts fisch; 2006 and Later F6AMLH Yamaha Outboard REMO CON ATTACHMENT Diagram and Parts

it appears that black plastic shaft with the hole is for a remote. Its not even numbered but a cotter pin, #15 goes into it.

Part #18 shows it here, but no spring;http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...ROL/parts.html


As posted above, that engine is super clean. Did you look down below with a strong flash light looking for any loose parts flopping around on the bottom??

[boscoe99]

I got to thinking.

Why do you want the motor to return to idle when you let go of the throttle? Most want the motor to stay at whatever position that it was set for. Thus the reason for the friction lock. Same with a remotely con*****ed motor. Take your hand off the throttle and the throttle should stay where you left it. If not, you tighten a friction screw to make it stay there.

I am thinking that the return spring on the carburetor itself is there in the event that the linkage at the carburetor should break, in which case it would be desirable for the carburetor to go to the idle position.

[thedcpnn]

I completely agree that most of the time I would use the friction lock to keep the throttle constant but I know that the return is there for safety.

While not essential I do think it's important and would like to make sure that it is in working order. I'll see if I can't find a dealer in town who has an F8, I imagine it's pretty similar and will see if I can't figure it out from theirs.

I'll report back if I find out.

[boscoe99]

For safety there is the kill switch lanyard. If you get removed from the motor the lanyard activates a switch and stops the motor.

I ran a Yam tiller steered F9.9, F25 and F40 on my tin boat and none would return to idle when I took my hand off the throttle handle. Neither would my remote steered F200. Nor would my Mercury 175EFI. Neither did my Merc 25 HP tiller model and it did not even have a kill switch. That was a later product improvement.

[99yam40]

it has been so long since I ran a tiller steer motor I cannot remember it they returned to idle by themselves or not.
I do remember my brother and I would take turns running that 15 and 25 Johnson motors we had due to your hand getting tired of holding the tiller on long runs

[boscoe99]

it has been so long since I ran a tiller steer motor I cannot remember it they returned to idle by themselves or not.
I do remember my brother and I would take turns running that 15 and 25 Johnson motors we had due to your hand getting tired of holding the tiller on long runs

That would be the problem and thus the reason for the throttle not to return to idle on its own. But, given a smooth control mechanism and sufficient engine vibration a throttle might reduce itself over time. Very annoying. Thus the installation of the friction mechanism.

In some smaller Yams it is more convenient (IMO) to set the throttle at the end of the tiller handle and to then use the shift mechanism to steer the motor with. I want the throttle to not creep back.

Try taking a automobile/truck on a multi-hour drive without using cruise control and see how pleasant it may be. Thought I did not want cruise control when it first came out. Can not live without it today. Throttle needs to stay put until the operator makes an adjustment.

Same thing with airplanes. Set the throttle handle(s)/power lever(s) and they should stay where they are. If not, use the friction lock to hold them in place.

[99yam40]

I installed many of the aftermarket cruse controls back in the early to mid 70s.
Even at the dealerships I installed some on new cars. I do not remember who made them. Maybe they were just options from dealer added after delivery.


I believe the vibration was a lot of the problem with holding the tiller for a long time, hand would go numb after a while. But it could be the spring return on those older motors had some to do with it.
I agree the safety lanyard with kill switch is the best protection, the old motors did not have that

[rodbolt17]

that black piece with a hole is for remote controls.

as its a tiller model I suspect some one has dinked with the tiller cables.
the return spring looks ok.