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'00 250SX... Possibly a dumb question

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  • #16
    Oh, Scott... Do you mean the Grady zip ties have that extra lip? Or is it their quick clamps that have the lip?
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #17
      Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
      Oh, Scott... Do you mean the Grady zip ties have that extra lip? Or is it their quick clamps that have the lip?
      Dennis,

      The one I pictured above obviously wraps around fully.

      The other one looks just like a regular plastic zip tie, BUT the the "working end", on the inside, curves so when its tightened up, you don't have that small gap there.

      I don't know if they have a specific name, I think Yamaha carries them and their NOT cheap like regular zip ties...
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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      • #18
        Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
        Dennis,

        The one I pictured above obviously wraps around fully.

        The other one looks just like a regular plastic zip tie, BUT the the "working end", on the inside, curves so when its tightened up, you don't have that small gap there.

        I don't know if they have a specific name, I think Yamaha carries them and their NOT cheap like regular zip ties...
        OK, gotcha. I thought that's what you you meant, but I wasn't sure. Thanks!

        I'm running out of the ones you have pictured - might as well order some more! I usually get them from Mcmaster Carr.
        2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
        1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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        • #19
          They used to only be sold at Evenrude dealers but I've seen them in local hardware stores too.


          I have two on each nipple on the transom filter hoses... There's plenty of room for two, should one break down(from the sun), you still have the other to get you home...
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #20
            Huh? I've never heard of this before...

            I have a new, Mercury brand primer bulb sitting on my desk and it's still in the box. On the box, it says "Primer bulb works best if held vertically with arrow pointing up". I can honestly say that I have NEVER paid attention to the orientation of the primer bulb on any boat in the past (other than the directional arrow, of course). But if I had to guess, I would say that in most of my experience the bulb has probably been relatively horizontal. Is this a strange "warning", or is there some truth to this?
            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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            • #21
              Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
              Huh? I've never heard of this before...

              I have a new, Mercury brand primer bulb sitting on my desk and it's still in the box. On the box, it says "Primer bulb works best if held vertically with arrow pointing up". I can honestly say that I have NEVER paid attention to the orientation of the primer bulb on any boat in the past (other than the directional arrow, of course). But if I had to guess, I would say that in most of my experience the bulb has probably been relatively horizontal. Is this a strange "warning", or is there some truth to this?
              Some one also posted its supposed to be oriented vertically as well.

              I don't think ANY of mine have been anything but horizontal just due to the fact the transom is so short(in my case at least).

              I'd kink the fuel lines trying to make it vertical (especially if you trim up)

              I've never had a problem with it pumping..


              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #22
                Check valves work better if vertical

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                • #23
                  All primer balls that I know of are flow directional. And for them to work most effectively they should be positioned with the arrow pointing up.

                  There are valves inside at each end of the primer ball. When the ball is pressed the bottom valve closes and the top valve opens allowing fuel to flow out and on to the motor. When pressure is removed from the ball the top valve closes and the bottom valve opens so that fuel can flow into the bulb.

                  If flapper valves are used then holding the primer ball with the arrow pointing up allows gravity to work to close the valves when they need to be closed.

                  Now when the motor is running it does not make a rats ass in which direction the arrow is pointed.

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                  • #24
                    Amazing what one might find in an owner's manual:

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                    • #25
                      Maybe some do not understand that it does not have to be vertical at all times, just when priming to help get all of the air out

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                        Maybe some do not understand that it does not have to be vertical at all times, just when priming to help get all of the air out
                        And many don't seem to understand that it can helpful if the ball is held vertical with the outlet on top when they are trying to reprime the system following a boat mounted filter change. Post after post after post as to how they cannot get the system reprimed.

                        Then a fight might break out as to whether it is better for the primer ball to be ahead of or behind the boat filter.

                        And then misinformation ensues as to whether it is legal to have a filter with a plastic bowl below deck.

                        Then someone will bring up the craziness of having a fuel filter below deck right next to his battery.

                        Then another one will bring up the craziness of having a battery below deck in the bilge.

                        And if someone is using an electric pump instead of a primer ball he might really get attacked.

                        Boaters can have their idiosyncrasies.

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                        • #27
                          In my pic above, that's the way its been since 1996.

                          I just started the engine 2 days ago (with it exactly as shown). Primed hard with maybe 1.5 squeezes.



                          **Note, in another thread we discussed always priming before starting (which I never did, didn't need it).

                          Anyway, primed it, it started in the same amount of time as normal, no change...

                          I suspect, (as 99Yam pointed out) as long as you have a nice airtight system, and there's already fuel in the VST, doesn't matter much, if at all..
                          Scott
                          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                          • #28
                            Thank you, guys. Everything that was said makes sense in regards to the main reason for it being vertical is for priming. Being horizontal may not allow the valves to properly close at the right time. I know it was probably a silly question, but I appreciate the time you guys took to answer. Thanks!
                            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                            • #29
                              primer bulbs

                              have seen from parkers to gradys...the primer bulb installed WRONG...Boscoe hit the nail on the head on this one....I keep a NEW primer bulb with me in my "Mobile" rig to show folks...that if the arrow is not pointing "UP" it dosnt work right..Also,,Be Avised that MERCURY came out with a new design of the "shutter Valve" in their primer bulbs..they can be ID by the Yellow plastic leading into the bulb.....PLease,,,PLEASE,,,Don't buy any fuel line assy except OEM or Serria...OR you will be sorry !!

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                              • #30
                                primer bulb

                                Common, it doesn't take a team of sum 100 years experience, and 50 years training, and involve scientists, expert designers to discuss how to solve this massive engineering problem, the thing is a primer bulb for g sake.

                                If it doesn't work, don't look up test procedures and invest in $ equipment, it is a primer bulb, throw it away.

                                That arrow, I know it is written face up, but it is simply the flow direction. For g sake it is a simple primer bulb, if it doesn't work buy another one.

                                Yes rats ass doesn't matter how you hold the damn thing.

                                I have been squeezing simple primer bulbs for 6 decades. If it doesn't quite work you squeeze the air out. Valves rubbish. If it doesn't work throw it away and get a better one!

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