C40TLRX crank removal and install procedure

[boscoe99]

[99yam40]

Ok how is that done?
Short and sweet

[boscoe99]

Captured using Snagit software. Posted to my photobucket.com account. Then copied and pasted as a link here.

[99yam40]

thanks bosco99

guess I need to get a place beside my computer to put these pics

Also letting everyone know I got some verification that the lower unit top seal housing #30 part # I was talking about earlier has been superseded to 63B-Y429H-K1-00 and does include the housing,2 seals, and o-ring.
And it is mislabeled as water pump housing assy and is cheaper than just the housing itself.

Now if I can get Rod to look at the pic and let me know about the groove in shaft I will be happy once again

[rodbolt17]

that's not a groove.
its where a wear collar is pressed on the shaft.
once you remove that seal carrier its more easily seen.
its also why shaft seal surface failure is rare on Yamaha.

see I done tole ya ya worrins way too much.

[rodbolt17]

oh
easiest way I have found to remove the seal carrier is by drilling two 1/8th holes in it and inserting 2 #10 self tapping screws and use the screws and diagonal cutters to lift it out.

[99yam40]

Well I am a happy camper once again.

Rodbolt Thanks for your info

Does the drilling holes mean automatic replacement of the housing or do you not drill that deep to need to replace?

If the motor runs well after putting back together I will be resealing the lower unit in the next year or so even if it is not leaking

[99yam40]

Rodbolt
Is it just my pic that you cannot open or see or is it all pics?
I might be able to help you set your options to view pic

Click on Quick links at top right
Click edit options
Scroll to very bottom
At the bottom window Message Editor Interface
click on enhanced interface
and then save changes
I Hope that helps

Rodbolt,
thought I would ask again to see if this might help you see some of the thumbnail and other pictures on this site.

Also what thread sealer do you use on head and case bolts?
Manual calls for Loctite 572 and I am having a hard time finding it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Does the drilling holes mean automatic replacement of the housing or do you not drill that deep to need to replace?
g

From his description, it won't damaga the carrier's function, putting the screws into the carrier just gives you two places to grab the carrier and lift it out of the block EVENLY.

Just don't drill crazy deep as it isn't needed.

[99yam40]

Yea, I just am not sure where to drill the holes without knowing how thick it is at different places. Getting a look at one out would help

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My money is that its machined the same thickness to sit in the block all around.

I would drill where the notches are (in the case, for better access to the screws you insert).

How thick or deep that piece is IDK, looking at the exterior case may help. You shouldn't need approx 1/4" deep hole for the screws to work.

It'd have to be that deep just to hold the seal.

Obviously, Rod should be able to give a more detailed answer.. I'm sure he's busy on a Monday am at the shop..

[rodbolt17]

typically any removal will destroy that seal carrier.
I use gel seal or 518 on the crank case halves and bolts.
I use pipe sealent with Teflon on the ex cover and cyl head and cover bolts.
but if the seals are not leaking why do ypou wish to remove the seal carrier from the lower unit?

[99yam40]

Thanks again Rodbolt for the info,

That is what I was thinking would happen with the housing. Not much to pry against anyway

You are correct in that if it is not leaking I should just leave it alone.

I am just killing time waiting on parts and crank to show up so I can put it all back together.
Have not resealed this 1999 motor lower unit yet, and was gathering info on parts and procedure as I will need to do it sooner or later.
I believe this is the 518 you speak of that I ordered
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...TE5-18-31.html

I did find some Permatex 59214 listed at local auto part store that should replace the 572 I was looking for

[99yam40]

Crank showed up yesterday
I picked up the thread sealant today,
but am still waiting for all the gaskets and seals to show up at my door.

I was messing with the power head doing final cleaning and decided to test the check valves pressed into the motor. 3 of the 4 failed to seal/check.

What normally causes them to fail?

Lean sneezes popping them, trash/carbon getting into them, or just fatigue?

I will try to flush them, but not sure if some cleaners in pressurized cans will hurt what they are made of.

Anyone have info on them and best way to flush out?
gas oil mixture is what I will try 1st as that is what runs through them.

Well that did no good.
So what is the best way to get them out?
Vice grips or some other way?

they show 2 650-11370-00-00
and 2 688-11370-00-00
Anyone know what the difference is between them?

[rodbolt17]

FUUUKING old age dude
how long you want a high performance motor that really gets no maint to live ????

when was the last nascar sprint what the fook ever run you ever heard where the bragged about 4 yr old cooling systems and last years gas : ???????
\
you MUST and HAVE to understand.
your motor was and is still built to standards that even bubba nascar cannot match.

luckily ALL the engineering work is done.
all YOU have to do is reassemble your parts.

yep its that simple.