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2017 Yamaha 130 Please Help

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  • Kieranation4
    replied
    Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post

    I don't see a thing about the kill switch circuit having been checked. Why not?
    "Remote contol from donar boat, direct plug into our motor eliminating boat control wiring"

    Is there a separate kill switch circuit on the engine itself?
    The remote from spare boat was plugged into the wiring harness at the engine. Although I haven't connected the donar boat's remote with the new wiring harness.

    I've had a message back from the Yamaha Aussie man, we'll swap the stator over tomorrow. Pretty much the last thing left!

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  • DennisG01
    replied
    Thanks, Mr. B!

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    YDIS will show the engine stop switch (kill switch) circuit as being either on (closed) or off (open) at a particular point in time. A record is not retained.

    A fault could be anywhere from the key switch/kill switch all the way to the ECU. Chaffed wires in a bundle are the worst.

    An LED test lamp could be wired to the kill switch circuit (LED powered by the battery) so that if and when the kill switch circuit is closed (fault or otherwise) the lamp would illuminate. If the lamp illuminates with the key in the on position and the kill switch lanyard installed that would cause me to focus on the kill switch circuit.

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  • DennisG01
    replied
    Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post

    I don't see a thing about the kill switch circuit having been checked. Why not?
    With the "jiggling" of the engine, I was only thinking that the issue had to be there at the engine. But that's a good point - the engine bouncing around by playing with the tilt could certainly cause enough vibration at the dash to affect things. And, certainly, the boat bouncing around underway could cause it. 'Bout 10 years ago I was trying to figure out why a Mercruiser would randomly cut off and/or not start. Finally looked at the kill switch lanyard (the red plastic part) - the little fingers of the "fork" were slightly cracked, thereby not fully depressing the kill switch button.

    If there's no damage to the lanyard, maybe check connections and even bypass the kill switch completely to see if the problem persists?

    Does the computer record (whether live or in history) when it perceives the kill switch being activated?

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    Originally posted by Kieranation4 View Post

    THE ISSUE
    It started maybe 6 months ago when the motor has been started and in idle. It will just cut off. Restart it with no issues and run fine the whole rest of the day. This random issue has slowly started happening more and more often. But can still run for half a day without cutting out. Or be a pain and die within seconds of starting. This only happens at idle or just when putting into gear. Motor runs perfectly and has never cut put once when under power.

    We can get it to cut out sporadically by lifting the motor with tilt up to around 45 or consistently by using the tilt switch like a strobe light, rocking the motor quickly.
    I don't see a thing about the kill switch circuit having been checked. Why not?

    Leave a comment:


  • boscoe99
    replied
    The F130 sold outside of the USA is the equivalent of the the USA F115B model. Just uprated in power output.

    zf130.jpg

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  • DennisG01
    replied
    I'm not sure on your 130, but on the older 2-strokes/OX66 it can ONLY be monitored "live" (the computer does not store codes). It sounds like yours does store some codes, at least. It would be nice to monitor the engine live, as the issue is happening. Try googling for a diagnostic tool for the late model F-series. As long as the computer software being used on your engine is the same as the ones in the States, I would think a diagnostic scanner used here in the States would work for you. There's some pretty inexpensive ones available online - and it would be worth a shot to try it.

    But, it sure sounds like you've got a wire grounding/shorting out - maybe just give a REAL good look at all the sensors and their wires, following them completely. Might be also be some connection that is a little loose and the vibration is causing it to temporarily loose contact.

    Maybe it's a break in a wire, rather than an actual connection. Meaning, the wire inside the sheathing is compromised. Hopefully a diagnostic tool could get you on the right path, but short of that... just start playing with wires (jiggling/bending/etc). Maybe you'll get lucky.

    Plug wires?

    Or... swap those things you "borrowed" back onto the spare engine and switch legs?
    Last edited by DennisG01; 01-28-2020, 11:47 AM.

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

    The YDS? Of course... I have one for mine, works great!

    For the Op, winky blinky is slang for the YDS that plugs into the engine to monitor the engine (same as what the regional rep did for you)..
    It plugs into the engine harness, then into a lap top. Then you can check codes, etc.

    That F130 looks like a smaller version F150! But with COP (coil over plug ignition-coil snaps over the spark plug), a higher rev range, etc..Nice
    actually a
    winky blinky is a tester that plugs in to some of the older motors. It has lights that blinked giving you the codes for problems that came in.
    YDS is the new and better thing

    kind of like the way you could get codes on automotive systems before they got readers to plug in to get them.
    or maybe it was just a way that people could get the codes without having a reader.
    Had to follow a sequence with the key and maybe something else to get the check engine light to blink if my memory is still working

    seeing as this is not a 2017 motor from the USA area,
    and he did not call it a F130 it may not be a 4 stroke
    well I just looked at the link he put up and it is a F130
    Last edited by 99yam40; 01-28-2020, 09:34 AM.

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  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post

    Does a winky blinky even work on a 4 stroke ?
    I would think a computer program would be better at telling what is going on
    The YDS? Of course... I have one for mine, works great!

    For the Op, winky blinky is slang for the YDS that plugs into the engine to monitor the engine (same as what the regional rep did for you)..
    It plugs into the engine harness, then into a lap top. Then you can check codes, etc.

    That F130 looks like a smaller version F150! But with COP (coil over plug ignition-coil snaps over the spark plug), a higher rev range, etc..Nice
    .



    .
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-28-2020, 09:04 AM.

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  • Kieranation4
    replied
    Forgive my ignorance but...what's a winky blinky?

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
    Might be worth the investment in buying your own winky blinky.
    It's not terribly expensive and would pay for itself pretty quick..

    Then you can monitor LIVE, when the engine stalls, the potential issue.


    I gather it's a 4 stroke?

    .
    Does a winky blinky even work on a 4 stroke ?
    I would think a computer program would be better at telling what is going on

    Leave a comment:


  • Kieranation4
    replied
    https://www.yamaha-motor.co.nz/produ...-cylinder/f130

    This is the motor we have. Not available in the USA.

    Compression test came back at 200 on each cylinder.

    Leave a comment:


  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    Might be worth the investment in buying your own winky blinky.
    It's not terribly expensive and would pay for itself pretty quick..

    Then you can monitor LIVE, when the engine stalls, the potential issue.


    I gather it's a 4 stroke?

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Kieranation4
    replied
    We are in the Cook Islands so our dealer isn't at the same standard as the rest of the world with a questionable history and charging $500 per computer scan. We were lucky to have had the Yamaha South Pacific regional manager visiting here two months ago who put in on the computer scanner. There were two codes outstanding one from 980 hours was the remote and one from 1700 hours from the crank sensor. He believed both were not related and it was likely an earth wire issue. So we replaced the whole harness. Apart from that nothing showed up. We didn't have a live reading of it running when it cut out though. No codes are being logged when it cuts out.
    We haven't run a compression test or leak down test. We're sourcing a compression testing kit today.
    We have gone through many theories and tracks, leading to the list of replacements.
    We have consistent voltage to the high pressure pump and the fuel pressure remains at 36/37psi when running. 39psi with key on and the motor off.

    Cheers.
    Last edited by Kieranation4; 01-27-2020, 07:44 PM.

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    has anyone tested anything or hooked up a computer to this motor?
    has your dealer worked on this motor?
    or are you just throwing parts at it?

    Leave a comment:

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