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F225 TXRC bogging down - fuel rail pressure question

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  • fairdeal
    replied
    Originally posted by Crazy Train View Post
    I it would be nice if the VST could be modified with maybe a 1 inch diameter side access 'hatch', like a screw on gas cap, level with the HP pump filter so that the filter and VST interior could be inspected without ripping the VST off the engine.
    Anybody else remember the Holley "Visi-flow" used on Fords and IHCs?

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
    Why is that?
    Originally posted by Crazy Train View Post
    As an aside, it would be nice if the VST could be modified with maybe a 1 inch diameter side access 'hatch', like a screw on gas cap, level with the HP pump filter so that the filter and VST interior could be inspected without ripping the VST off the engine.
    I would think anything below the liquid level like a gas cap has a very good possibility of leaking liquid fuel

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  • Crazy Train
    replied
    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
    myself I would test the rail pressure at the RPM and LOAD when it fails.
    otherwise the test is a teat on a boar hog.
    that vacuum sense line on the regulator allows for about 5PSI more rail pressure at or near WOT or when rapidly accelerating.
    Rodbolt: Agree: my first entry where I quoted RPMs and fuel rail psi was underway/under load...NOT in neutral. So, the at-load at RPM, from 2000 to 4200 RPM, rail pressure was 48 psi. Thanks.

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
    I am thinking that something like that could leak very easy and cause the motor to catch on fire
    Why is that?

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    I am thinking that something like that could leak very easy and cause the motor to catch on fire

    Leave a comment:


  • Crazy Train
    replied
    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
    anyone ever wonder what that vacuum line on the regulator is there for?
    at 48 PSI under a decent load I would not look at it anymore and move along.
    I think boscoe answered it, but I was guessing that the regulator maintains a certain pressure but that pressure is augmented/changed by the vacuum line. I believe I read somewhere where the vacuum only comes into significant play during hard acceleration. I assume the 'brim' of the 'top hat'-looking regulator is a diaphragm.

    Agree, moving along. Plenty of rail pressure. I need to pull the boat to my house so I can delve into the VST and HP pump filter and the fuel injectors. I am also suspecting bad fuel. Thanks.

    As an aside, it would be nice if the VST could be modified with maybe a 1 inch diameter side access 'hatch', like a screw on gas cap, level with the HP pump filter so that the filter and VST interior could be inspected without ripping the VST off the engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    myself I would test the rail pressure at the RPM and LOAD when it fails.
    otherwise the test is a teat on a boar hog.
    that vacuum sense line on the regulator allows for about 5PSI more rail pressure at or near WOT or when rapidly accelerating.

    Leave a comment:


  • Crazy Train
    replied
    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
    If the pressure gauge is correct/accurate, I would think the pressure regulator could cause it also, and too much fuel is bad for proper combustion just like too little what do the plugs look like?
    99: I pulled the plugs today. I still need to figure out how to post photos to this site, but in the meantime: all six plugs show consistent, normal greyish combustion appearance - no stand outs. All plugs still gapped at .044. Thanks!

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  • Crazy Train
    replied
    Originally posted by Crazy Train View Post
    Thanks boscoe. Great point: the gauge is brand new and, in comparison to your pressure values, seems to be reading consistently high at about +4 to +6 psi. (I will figure out if the gauge is accurate. That is, I need to test the test equipment.) If I assume the gauge is inaccurate and reading high, then rail pressure is likely sufficient and points to clogged injectors/injector filters. Thanks again.
    boscoe: Using the front tire on my truck, I assessed the accuracy of my fuel pressure gauge by comparing its' reading to 4 other dial/digital pressure gauges. I also pressurized the fuel gauge with a Mityvac hand pump that has its' own gauge. Overall, taking the average, the fuel pressure gauge looks to be reading about 1 to 2 psi high. Additionally, I rechecked the 'key on/engine off' fuel pressure on the engine today: about 2 seconds after 'key on' the pressure rises from 0 to 46 psi (44 psi corrected); you can hear the HP pump working. After the HP pump shuts off, the pressure starts to drop off to about 42 psi (40 psi corrected) after about 5 seconds. Overall, I think I have adequate fuel rail pressure and will head down the path suggested by Rodbolt of the HP pump filter and/or the fuel injectors.

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    Found this on the innerweb for 26 bucks. If I own an EFI model again I would install one just for the hellavit.

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
    anyone ever wonder what that vacuum line on the regulator is there for?
    at 48 PSI under a decent load I would not look at it anymore and move along.
    Given Yamaha's lack of theory of operation, anyone that wonders won't find it in a Yamaha service manual.

    If you look at some older Yamaha service manuals there is a bit of "how it works" information. YMIS, carburetors, trim/tilt systems, CDI's, etc.. Have you ever wondered why Yamaha stopped providing that type of information? Were folks simply not reading it?

    For those that do wonder, here is some verbiage to think about. Particularly the part that is italicized.

    Basic Operation

    EFI fuel pressure regulators come in various shapes and sizes but their purpose is the same- to hold the fuel pressure at a certain differential above the intake manifold pressure.

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  • rodbolt17
    replied
    anyone ever wonder what that vacuum line on the regulator is there for?
    at 48 PSI under a decent load I would not look at it anymore and move along.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by Crazy Train View Post
    Thanks 99. I plan to pull the plugs tomorrow and see what they look like. IF the pressure gauge is accurate, then the rail pressure is ~48 psi from about 2500 RPM up to 4200 RPM. I'm not sure, though, if 48 psi is too much to cause an issue (an improper fuel/air ratio that bogs the engine down). Thanks again.
    Rodbolt already said he does not see the regulator being a problem, I was just guessing it might be

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  • Crazy Train
    replied
    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
    last thing I would suspect with those symtoms is a regulator.
    I would suspect a VST filter or an injector filter or both.
    the HP filter on that motor is about the size of a pencil eraser.
    Thanks rodbolt. Agree, it looks like it is time to pull the injectors and VST filter, I just wasn't sure about the pressure regulator.

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  • Crazy Train
    replied
    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
    If the pressure gauge is correct/accurate, I would think the pressure regulator could cause it also, and too much fuel is bad for proper combustion just like too little what do the plugs look like?
    Thanks 99. I plan to pull the plugs tomorrow and see what they look like. IF the pressure gauge is accurate, then the rail pressure is ~48 psi from about 2500 RPM up to 4200 RPM. I'm not sure, though, if 48 psi is too much to cause an issue (an improper fuel/air ratio that bogs the engine down). Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:

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