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Yamaha 140 BETL/AETO CDI and Magneto complete rebuild

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  • #16
    In very basic terms, if you know the output, you already know the voltage, so power to operate it can be worked out, it is not fully accurate, because there is losses involved, you cannot make more than you use, or you would have perpetual motion! but it will kind of give you a rough number, remember this is a very rough number, your typical alternator does require considerable HP to keep the battery charged.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
      Since you mention curiosity, how many horsepower would you guess that it might take just to run the electrical generation system of say an F150?

      I am curious. I am working on a play project. Things are not what I expected them to be.

      I am impressed by what folks like samband63 do. Winding a stator I can possibly do. Reverse engineer a CDI, I would be (am) lost. I know that it is stupidly simply like a truth table (just some coils, wires, capacitors, diodes, transistors and such) but the concept of what all is going on, and when, escapes me.
      Electronics were never my strong side, we had a couple of electronics shops in the plants that I always took boards to to have them check and repair when needed

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      • #18
        How did you dig out all the potting compound from the CDI without damaging the board?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by panasonic View Post
          I am interested in what you have done for my own curiosity more than anything. Like you said these components are expensive from OEM. Not knowing if this is a popular model of outboard and how many are still around being used today, are you looking to sell these? Or are you you just sharing information about what you have done for the benefit of others who may have some interest in this type of work?
          Thanks for the post. I am interested in passing down information to anyone who can do a job of this nature. This is from the stage where you do the etching part of the double sided PCB with Ferric Chloride, drilling, fitting the components with stage by stage tests on the bench and finally with the outboard and sealing process to avoid moisture entering the unit and act as a damper for vibration.

          I am also planning to sell the Units at a very reasonable cost with a warranty and do the stator on a core exchange basis.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by panasonic View Post
            How did you dig out all the potting compound from the CDI without damaging the board?
            Yeah, its quite simple. You may cut / remove the plastic top of the unit and dip the entire Unit in Acetone or Methylene Chloride ( an industrial solvent ) overnight. The solvent slowly penetrates the potty and soften it to remove with a tiny, sharp and a hard piece of wire. The components can be de - soldered and arranged in a proper way where you will not miss any of them. But the 04 Zener Diode markings will get erased and we can check the voltage of each zener on the bench using a 56 Volt DC supply and a 10 K resistor.

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            • #21
              I think they are way too reliable to be worth trying to make money from it, but, you never know?

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