2004 Yam 150TXRC no spark, starboard side

[boscoe99]

I think Rodnut used the 200 model in order to make a point. That the specific model identity is important. He used the 200 as an example because there are so many permutations for that specific HP. Probably in response to the OP making reference to a 115 model in his original post. To show that just because any one Yamaha works in a certain way has nothing to do with how any other Yamaha works.

The only commonality that anyone can find about Yams is that they are painted gray. Usually. But not always.

It is well and good that the OP got the motor fixed. By changing the stator. Which does not make sense, but so be it.

[99yam40]

Rodbolt, you refered to his motor (150TXRC) as a 200 hp motor at one point and I am not sure which one has the ignition system that you explained early on as having low speed and high speed charge coils instead of charge coils for each bank.

Just wanted some clarification on that info

[rodbolt17]

welol in 04 there were at least 4 different ign systems used on a 150.
one did not use CDI.
the CDI uses a charge coil input to charge the capacitors. the CDI does NOT modify the voltage.
what the charge coil inputs is pretty much what the CDI outputs.
takes maybe 10 min to test charge coil in vs CDI out.

this pretty much applies to all brands of an altenator driven ign system.
merc,jonny/rude,suzuki,tohatsu,merc/mariner and a few others used the same system just called it something else.
but if you can test one you can test them all.
merc and jonny rudes have trigger coils.
japs have pulser coils.
what is the difference between a trigger coil and a pulser coil ?????
it all works the same, test inputs to the device and the outputs from the device.
if you have bad inputs the device may not be bad.
if you have good inputs and bad outputs the device is bad.
if you have good inputs and good outputs the device is ok.

this is why SM's and a logical test procedure is critical.

[99yam40]

Big thanks to Carlitos for posting the fact he had a 150 with the same problem and a stator was the fix. With that and 2 local mechanics who also said that could cause this I got a good used stator asy. and tried it. That fixed the problem and runs great now. I checked and his model does use the same ignition parts except I think the cdi unit was a different part number. While I agree in theory this should not happen it did. So I hope maybe someone that works for a Yamaha dealer can check with the tech department and find out what we are missing that can cause this. I would really like to know. I don't like being a parts replacer but I had know choice in the end. FYI I did check the output on the B/W leads and I got 180v on the port side and 50v on the starboard side. I'm also not sure if this was related but I'm starting to think so. My tach had been bouncing around for a while and I just figured it was a bad tach since I could tap the face and it would go back to normal most of the time but I did notice that while I was test running the boat the tach never once was off. So what's everyone's opinion?

Yes I did see that the CDI output to the coils was finally posted, but what has changed coming out of the stator?
did the charge coil, pulser coil, lighting coil or anything else read different from the original?
could the one low reading on pulser have been the problem?

I am just trying to understand what was different that could have fixed the problem by changing the stator

[1oldoutboardtech]

No spark on starboard side? "FIXED"

Did you go back and read my post from when I fixed it? I took readings from the output of the b/w leads. And no it was not a bad connection. I did all the old school tricks of wiggling wires and tapping electrical components along with checking all connections and doing all sorts of test with meters. As I ask in my earlier post maybe someone who works for a yam dealer can ask there area tech rep about this. All I know is I put on a new stator which evidently you all still don't think could have been the problem but it was and Carlitos whos engine does use the same stator also had the same problem with the same fix. I did take offense to Rodbolts comments how he could have fixed this in 20 minutes and how stupid easy it is yet he is the one who is basically saying this engine cant lose spark on one bank and could not give me any real help other than explaining how the ignition works. Still I thank all for your comments and help. My engine is running and now my family can enjoy the lake once again.

[99yam40]

I still think testing the peak voltages into and out of the CDI/ECU would have pointed to what was going on.
not some of them, but all of them as I asked.
and as Rod refered to

What part of the stator outputs do you think were bad that replacing it fixed your problem?
have you measured the outputs of the one you installed to see if they were different than you old one?

do you think unplugging some connections and putting them back together could have cleaned up a connection.

i still want to know if the 200 was what Rod was talking about being differentfrom the begining or was it a 150

[1oldoutboardtech]

No spark on starboard side? "FIXED"

I find your comment funny and simply BS since you are the one that said this.
"NO NO NO
go find a REAL tech.
the 2.6L carbed uses a high and low speed charge coil setup. only the 3.1L uses a separate charge coil for bank to bank.
if you don't belive me simply look it up in your SM.
any motor that lists the high and low speed with the same ohms value and output is bank to bank. any that list a different ohms value is NOT bank to bank.
why is this sheet so tough?????????.

it is common sense folks.
understand how the system works.
what is missing. fix it.

is it simply to hard to test? "

That was after Carlitos posted he had the same motor with the same problem and it was the stator that was bad. Then a friend of mine confirmed with a tech at his dealership that that would do it. You then posted the above telling me that it can't and to this day you have not been able to say what on my engine could cause one side to go out and I asked repeatedly. So you can say whatever you want now about how simple and quick you could have figured this out but your comments in this thread show different. At one point you even started talking about a 200 and how there is no 200 with that model number when I clearly posted it to be a 150. Anyway I don't doubt you are a descent tech but this stumped you and that's all there is to it.

[rodbolt17]

me and my trusty voltmeter would have found that issue in about 20 min.
stator volt in,CDI volt out.
the CDI, just like the OMC poerpack DOES not change or amplify voltage.
it simply rectifies it and stores it until it is triggered.
just like the OMC.
anything I work on I tend to study the SM paying close attention to the wiring diagrams.

been doing this about 40 yrs and never been beaten.
had a few challenges but never beaten.
not gonna say I am good but I am very patient.
got 2 jobs coming that everybody near wanchese has had a wrench on in the past year.
one is an 8.1 crusader that has a simple issue that should have been found.
the other is an 8.1 Volvo that is junk.

this stuff is stupidly simple, but it does require a bit of basic training and some test equipment.

[1oldoutboardtech]

No spark on starboard side? "FIXED"

Big thanks to Carlitos for posting the fact he had a 150 with the same problem and a stator was the fix. With that and 2 local mechanics who also said that could cause this I got a good used stator asy. and tried it. That fixed the problem and runs great now. I checked and his model does use the same ignition parts except I think the cdi unit was a different part number. While I agree in theory this should not happen it did. So I hope maybe someone that works for a Yamaha dealer can check with the tech department and find out what we are missing that can cause this. I would really like to know. I don't like being a parts replacer but I had know choice in the end. FYI I did check the output on the B/W leads and I got 180v on the port side and 50v on the starboard side. I'm also not sure if this was related but I'm starting to think so. My tach had been bouncing around for a while and I just figured it was a bad tach since I could tap the face and it would go back to normal most of the time but I did notice that while I was test running the boat the tach never once was off. So what's everyone's opinion?

[boscoe99]

Ok but I was just thinking since the 150TXRC does exists but there is not a 200TXRC he had got his models crossed up from some other post

Maybe so. I am just guessing here.

[99yam40]

I suspect that he is just using the 200 as an example. Worst case example.

Ok but I was just thinking since the 150TXRC does exists but there is not a 200TXRC he had got his models crossed up from some other post

[boscoe99]

Thank you for pointing out that I posted the model number. If there's one thing I've learned in my 30 plus years of outboard repair is just when you think you've seen it all and know it all something new arises that stumps you. As I have said before I am a Johnson/Evinrude Tech mainly older 70's, 80's, 90's and early 2000 and at one time was considered to be 1 of the best techs on the east coast. I got on this forum for help because as I have found out this engines ignition works totally different than any OMC outboard I am used too. I can only assume that no one has ever seen this problem or can tell me what areas to look in for lose of spark on the starboard bank only. Thanks for all your help. I will eventually figure this out and post what it was.

I am certainly wanting to know. Has me stumped. Good luck to you.

[boscoe99]

Rod the OP posted this is a 150TXRC not a 200.

not sure where you got the 200 from

even the title says 150TXRC

I suspect that he is just using the 200 as an example. Worst case example.

Maybe those of us that frequent this site should not respond to any post that does not provide a complete model identity or engine ID number. Or, maybe our response should be that no help can/will be forthcoming until such time as the OP gives us what we need. Other sites do this and it seems to work well for them. Better than whats works here in that regard. Same with control boxes and gauges.

"I have a Yamaha that is giving me problems. What can I do to fix the problem? What is the problem? Is it control box related or gauge related?"

Or as the man in the video with an engine stumbling problem says to his repair man "I think you need to put a new alternator in my truck. Here is one I got from the junk yard". Days later he complains to the repair man that his problem is not fixed.

[1oldoutboardtech]

No spark on starboard side?

Thank you for pointing out that I posted the model number. If there's one thing I've learned in my 30 plus years of outboard repair is just when you think you've seen it all and know it all something new arises that stumps you. As I have said before I am a Johnson/Evinrude Tech mainly older 70's, 80's, 90's and early 2000 and at one time was considered to be 1 of the best techs on the east coast. I got on this forum for help because as I have found out this engines ignition works totally different than any OMC outboard I am used too. I can only assume that no one has ever seen this problem or can tell me what areas to look in for lose of spark on the starboard bank only. Thanks for all your help. I will eventually figure this out and post what it was.

[99yam40]

Rod the OP posted this is a 150TXRC not a 200.

not sure where you got the 200 from

even the title says 150TXRC