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2004 Yam 150TXRC no spark, starboard side

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    Originally posted by 1oldoutboardtech View Post
    Okay logic tells us it can't be the pulser coils, the charge coils, the cps, none of the overheat or oil sensors or switches and the ignition coils are good. Tested with a used cdi unit and still had the same problem. Maybe the cdi units both have the same problem but unlikely. There has to be something in common that will make 1 side go out. I know the charge coils can't make 1 side go out. My friend is saying the lighting coils can. Can the lighting coil cause 1 bank to go out?
    No. The lighting coil is not interfaced in any way with the CDI. The lighting coil provides AC voltage to the rectifier/regulator only.

    Presumption being that the lighting coils have not chaffed to any other coils within the stator assembly.
    Last edited by boscoe99; 08-12-2017, 01:57 PM.

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  • 1oldoutboardtech
    replied
    No spark on starboard side?

    Okay logic tells us it can't be the pulser coils, the charge coils, the cps, none of the overheat or oil sensors or switches and the ignition coils are good. Tested with a used cdi unit and still had the same problem. Maybe the cdi units both have the same problem but unlikely. There has to be something in common that will make 1 side go out. I know the charge coils can't make 1 side go out. My friend is saying the lighting coils can. Can the lighting coil cause 1 bank to go out?

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    one more time.

    that system uses a high and low speed charge coil.
    both feed 6 capacitors.
    it uses two pulser coils to time the capacitor discharge for 4 cylinders.
    the CDI assy uses a crank position sensor to make the spark for the other two.
    CDI stands for Capacitor Discharge Ignition.
    same as a merc switch box or a jonny/rude powerpack.
    they all do the same thing.

    in the trade it is called an alternator driven ign.
    over the years we have seen points and magnetos.
    12v amplifiers with points.
    12v amplifiers with pulser or trigger coils.
    CDI systems.
    12V transistor systems.

    it is all very simple to test.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    Seems he said one charge coil did not read up to spec. but did not list what anything read, so who knows for sure

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  • boscoe99
    replied
    If all of the tests indicate that everything is working according to Hoyle, what should be fixed?

    High and low charge coils (2) test good.

    Pulser coils (2) test good.

    Crank position sensor (1) tests good.

    Ignition coils (6) through spark plugs test good.

    Lighting coils (3) test good.

    Wires to and from the CDI (charge coils [Br-R & B/R-L] , pulser coils [W/R-W/G & W/Y-W/Br], [CPS G-G], [spark plugs B/W] test good.

    What needs to be fixed if everything is meeting published specifications? The CDI?

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    NO NO NO
    go find a REAL tech.
    the 2.6L carbed uses a high and low speed charge coil setup. only the 3.1L uses a separate charge coil for bank to bank.
    if you don't belive me simply look it up in your SM.
    any motor that lists the high and low speed with the same ohms value and output is bank to bank. any that list a different ohms value is NOT bank to bank.
    why is this sheet so tough?????????.

    it is common sense folks.
    understand how the system works.
    what is missing. fix it.

    is it simply to hard to test?

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    from what Rod is saying your motor is a 2.6L and Carl has a 3.1L
    Different systems

    Leave a comment:


  • 1oldoutboardtech
    replied
    No spark on starboard side?

    Thanks Carlitos. What you said was confirmed to me by a old co-worker of mine that now works for a Yam dealer. He got with a mechanic and they said that the stator consist of 2 coils that power each bank so if 1 goes out you will not have spark on 1 side. the only thing confusing me is that Rodbolt is telling me, if I'm understanding him correctly, that my motor doesn't work like that. I will post the outcome once I replace the stator.

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  • rodbolt17
    replied
    I have already explained exactly how the system works.
    stator charges all the caps.
    two pulsers spark 4 cylinders.
    CPS sparks the other two.
    Yamaha does not use S.L.O.W.
    the 2.6L sparks all 6.
    the 3.1l sparks bank to bank.
    now you have to use the SM and a peak reading meter and find inputs VS outputs.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1oldoutboardtech
    replied
    No spark on starboard side?

    Interesting, I'm curious did a shop do the work or did you do this yourself? You are sure it was the stator/charge coil assy? I'm asking because I have checked the output of the high and low speed charge coils and they check good but I did not check the stator windings because first it is charging and second I did not think the charging side could affect spark. Thanks though I will look into that further.

    Leave a comment:


  • carlitos
    replied
    No spark on starboard side.

    For what it is worth and hoping that I am not overstepping any protocol because I am a recent member to this site and lack experience and working knowledge.

    I had the exact same problem of 'no spark on the starboard side' on my 2003 V150 TLRB - with about 300 saltwater operating hours on it, and it turned out to be that the stator part # 6R3-85510-00-00, which appears to be the same one that fits a 2004 150 TXRC, had a partial failure.

    i realized after the repair that stator must have been progressively getting weaker up to the point of failure because as soon as it was replaced , the engine's overall response and fuel efficiency improved and it regained the power that it had when it was new.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1oldoutboardtech
    replied
    No spark on starboard side?

    So I have done some more checking on my engine and I definitely do not have spark on the starboard side. (no output on 1,3,and 5) The engine will run and I disconnected both temp switches and the temp sensor which had no change. I disconnected the main harness from the cdi and the only change was dropping #2 coil which from what I understand is normal for this engine. 2 and 5 will quit firing but of course 5 is already not firing. When I disconnected the oil sender the alarm went off but no change in running. So can anyone tell me if any of these sensors or switches that I disconnected where bad would they cause the cdi unit not to fire these 3 coils?(1,3,& 5)

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    that is not something I know.

    some models with that miss fire some cylinders to help get them out of gear, but I have no idea which ones

    maybe Rodbolt can say, but he did not say this one had this, so who knows

    was the charge coil that is below spec the low speed or the high speed?
    is the motor turning fast enough to get proper testing?
    did you measure the CPS output?

    I would measure all inputs and outputs and post the readings so others can have a look at them
    Last edited by 99yam40; 08-07-2017, 06:15 PM.

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  • 1oldoutboardtech
    replied
    No spark on starboard side?

    Funny being a Evinrude/Johnson Tech its a normal thing for me to see 1 whole side go out but from what I've learned about how this Yam ignition works there's no way this could happen short of all 3 coils going bad. I have checked spark while running with a timing light and while cranking with spark testers 1 on each side. There's no doubt 1,3 and 5 are not sparking. I'm wondering if the engine harness or cdi unit is built to accept a shift assist switch and has shorted out somehow. Does the Yam shift assist cut out the starboard side just like an Evinrude?

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    if there was good voltage out then maybe a bad ground as Boscoe mentioned or bad wiring heading to coil.
    just proves you do not need to look anywhere else if out put is out of spec.

    I believe the kill wire is white.
    CDI electronics has good troubleshooting info along with specs for all sorts of outboards.

    you can slip a small paper clip or other small stiff wire into the backside of connectors where the wire goes in without hurting the insulation and get reading while hooked up and running. hook meter lead to those.

    so far no one can come up with anything to take out spark on a bank .
    I would take all the readings I could to try and prove the CDI is bad before buying a new one.
    most guides say to disconnect the kill wire in their troubleshooting

    Leave a comment:

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