Lower Unit bolts

[Kirk Gibson]

Thanks again

Well I went out to do the starboard motor yesterday, from the time I opened the garage door until the time I closed the door completely finished. 2 hr. & 30 min.
Everything went together (wp wise) great as before and I was waiting for it to do like the other LU but first stab it went right in smooth as a baby's butt. Just like 3 years ago.
So biggest lesson learned from all this is to make sure the LU didn't get bumped out of neutral while you are working on it and don't be fooled by the smoothness of the shift if you don't have the prop on.....lol
Thanks again guys

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sure feel dumb now sorry guys.

Naw, just as long as its back to "normal".

Good luck on the sea trial...

[Kirk Gibson]

Sorry

Sure feel dumb now sorry guys.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sure, your NOT spinning a (guessing) 10-13 lb piece of metal (prop) from 0 RPMs, to "speed" AND no water resistance..

[99yam40]

yep no prop mean quieter shifting

[Kirk Gibson]

I think this is all in my head now...lol

After seeing you guys talking about props I started thinking (oh no) and I now think the gearcase will probably clunk like before when I get it in the water,
Heres why:
After struggling with the LU and wondering if the shift shaft completely missed the coupling on the way in, I wanted to be sure it shifted properly along with peeing ok. I went to using a tank to run my engines (here at the house) instead
of the muffs because sometimes the muffs didnt want to seal, dragging hoses etc. wondering if it was going to prime right (sometimes it seemed like forever) so I started using a 100 gallon cattle tub I placed on a moving dolly. I put the tail down in the tank, it comes way over the wp position and never fails to prime.
Also when done I just roll it over to the other engine. It works real well.
Anyway I knew if I left the prop on and placed it in gear while in the tub bad things would happen. Especially when the tub is on rollers. So I removed the prop.
This, is why I think I am getting the illusion that it clunks less and is smoother.
Sound right?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

my old pressed in SS was quieter than my new drop in hub SS prop

I have no experience with the drop in hubs but I suspect your probably right..

Pat, did you ever try a prop with a regular press in hub? (just shifting into gear)

[99yam40]

my old pressed in SS was quieter than my new drop in hub SS prop

[TownsendsFJR1300]

heavy SS props and the new hard plastic hubs make more noise than the pressed in rubber hubs and light weight aluminum props

I have a heavy SS prop and pressed in, regular bushing..

[99yam40]

heavy SS props and the new hard plastic hubs make more noise than the pressed in rubber hubs and light weight aluminum props

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If someone had a magic cure for the clunk I would listen. As long as it doesn't cost me $700. My F150 clunks so loud that shrimp leap out of the water around the boat. I was concerned when I bought it in 2012. I hated it and called Kennesaw to inquire about SDS props. Tech talked me out of it. 700 buys a good bit of fuel and Rodbolt ****tails too. Never find any particles in the oil either which amazes me.

Petertails banned too?

C0cktails?? Works for me.... Must be you Pat.

BTW, shifting into gear clunks on mine as well, but no where near as loud as you described.

I posted that audio video (while on the lift) but the engine was in the water when I shifted: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134...6/35586610891/ (21 second mark).

BTW, that "noisy belt sound" in this video is now gone with the new balancer installed yesterday.

But you can hear the engine shift into forward fairly quietly (700 RPMs showing)...

Maybe the "allowed clearances" are tighter on some engines than others thus the difference..

[pstephens46]

Yes I understand what the water pump does and what it has to go through before it pees etc etc I was just commenting on why I time the tell tale.
Also was curious as to why it shifts silky-smooth now just like the other engine, when before it didn't?

If someone had a magic cure for the clunk I would listen. As long as it doesn't cost me $700. My F150 clunks so loud that shrimp leap out of the water around the boat. I was concerned when I bought it in 2012. I hated it and called Kennesaw to inquire about SDS props. Tech talked me out of it. 700 buys a good bit of fuel and Rodbolt ****tails too. Never find any particles in the oil either which amazes me.

Petertails banned too?

[fairdeal]

I think there's 7 splines - which puts is at about 51 degrees of rotational "off'



when you don't have both the remote control and the gearbox in neutral -

you can still install the LU

but now back at the control lever you only have two choices -

not three


the starter will crank so long as the remote control is in the center position -

even if back at the engine, that's actually in gear

as I said the memory is fuzzy.
Not happy experiences - but no permanent damage occurred.

[99yam40]

I would think the motor would start, but the lower unit would be in gear or partially in gear.
how many spines does this shift shaft have?
I would think it is like most other motors shafts, and it can fit together in many ways.
no special way it can only go together

[Kirk Gibson]

Good point

Yeah, I guess if not in neutral it wouldn't start. Good point. Unless one spline off isn't enough to open the circuit.
BTW how did you find out it was one spline off?