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  • #16
    If it won't crank like that, next I would clamp a jumper cable from the neg (-) terminal at battery to someplace right on the engine block to determine if it is the ground conductor. Etc...
    If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

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    • #17
      Originally posted by amahaork View Post
      Engines don't charge batteries just barely return what was taken. Try to charge batteries with marine charger 10 amp for each battery for 10 hr
      I see that stated often by the "smart charger" hawkers and their shills.

      Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
      What?
      10 amps for 10 hours using a marine charger or 55 amps for 1.82 hours using the motors' electrical generation system equals 100 amp hours. If my math is correct.
      In fairness, one needs to consider if the engine actually gets run for 1.82 hours following drawdown of the battery.

      I have seen on another site an absorption with "adding an ACR to charge the house battery"

      but sometimes missing the point that after eight hours at the sandbar with the stereo blasting, a 5 mile run home at 30 mph isn't going to put back what was used.

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      • #18
        How long will it take to fill my 300 gallon tank?

        Are we siphoning diesel through a half inch ID hose to fill the tank or are we using the fuel system at the local airport that fuels up an Airbus A380?

        Rate over time.

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        • #19
          FabricGATOR,

          Engine started just fine after I physically swapped the batteries from R to L. As I mentioned in previous post, its starting to look like a bad battery selector (corroded or just shat the bed) or an internally corroded batt cable. As I understand electrics, either of those could allow a battery to die by preventing it from recharging in the manner that this is doing.

          I tested the two batts with a VM after I started the first engine (both batt selectors in BOTH) and the healthy battery was receiving full charge and showing 13.4 V or so, while the dead batt was barely receiving any charge at all. Its voltage was above what it was prior to start, but just a trickle. Something was preventing the good engines current from reaching it.

          ** Just pulled the charger off of the dead batt after 24 hours. It's reading 13.45V in its post charged and ready to go state. Its a group 31 Deep Cycle. We shall see how long it takes to drop and where it finally stabilizes post charge. I'll check the voltage again in a few hours and drag it to Advance.

          ** One hour later it's 12.83 volts.
          Two and a half later its 12.74 volts.
          Four hours later. 12.70 volts. Advance Auto tested it at 595 AMPS out of 650 possible. They said that its fine. I will presume that the other one is as well. And at over 200 bucks each, I'm pretty happy about that.
          24 hours later, 12.72v.

          Will post again as I find the culprit.
          Last edited by oldmako69; 05-13-2017, 12:43 PM.

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          • #20
            Too funny! You scraped the side of the SOLO vortex. Good luck!

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