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Rodbolt - do you have a trick for this?

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  • Rodbolt - do you have a trick for this?

    Rodbolt has shared many of his clever methods for otherwiise hard-to-do tasks - maybe he can help me out with this:

    I want to remove the trim sender from my F225TXRD - two #3 "Phillips" screws (I suspect they are really JIS)
    haven't been touched in 12 years

    The outer one was very reluctant to loosen - although I got it.

    But the inner screw is so close to the bracket - even at full tilt up -

    than I can barely get a screwdriver bit into it at all -

    certainly can't get "a straight shot" at it

    I'm afraid the bit is going to cam out and strip the screw before it loosens.

    Any suggestions?


  • #2
    I have had better luck using a square shanked flat bladed screwdriver. With a blade that fully fills the slot. With maybe a tad of valve grinding compound on the blade to help it grip. Use an adjustable wrench on the shank to turn while pushing like hell to keep the blade from backing out.

    Or maybe an impact torque driver.

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    • #3
      Extra long 16-20" flat blade snap on screwdriver so you can come in over the top or the bottom of the opposite bracket on an angle. The handle will be outside the bracket then...pair of vise grips on the shank to turn it. Two man job, one to push as hard as humanly possible another to turn it...lol

      Good luck

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      • #4
        Pull the pin on the tilt ram and pick it up. Gives you plenty of room.

        Comment


        • #5
          flat blade.
          1/4 drive extension and a hand impact and a 32oz hammer.
          pray ya get lucky.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
            flat blade.
            1/4 drive extension and a hand impact and a 32oz hammer.
            pray ya get lucky.
            +1 ^^ but start spraying with say PB Blaster and if the switch is toast, some heat as well before smacking.

            You have plenty of head there, just a matter of keeping the bit in there..
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

            Comment


            • #7
              spraying PB is a waste of PB.
              heat may help.
              a hand impact is your friend.

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              • #8
                some great suggestions, guys - thank you

                thinking a really long shank straight blade so I can go "over the top" of the other bracket. May have to make one.

                and I may disconnect the ram for some more tilt...





                Comment


                • #9
                  That is a girly mans screw driver.

                  Get a mans man screw driver.

                  I know you are used to a short shank but you will need a mans shank. Longer. Stouter. Stiffer.

                  Make that screw talk to you.

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                  • #10
                    Thinking about it, if that switch is junk anyway, break it away completely leaving the bolt alot more accessible.

                    Now, where the steel bolt meets the aluminum, PB blaster, heat AT THE THREADS and a SMALL VISE GRIP on the head of the bolt will give you MUCH more control. There's plenty of room for a small vise grip in there once the switch itself is gone...

                    You should be able to get a good grip on the head W/O worrying about stripping the head.

                    You can also feel / work the bolt by hand lessening the chance of snapping it at the base. Of course some smacking of the bolt may help loosen any sticking..
                    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 03-24-2017, 02:29 PM.
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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