Sealer on water pump??? WTH??

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, pulled the LU for a new WP (way overdue) and last done by a Yamaha
"Master Tech".

Holy crap... A 6th grader could have done better... As you can see by the pic's, that brown crap, is NOT GREASE, it's SEALER... And it was EVERYWHERE...

And if the sealer on the WP isn't bad enough, he put SEALER on / around the drive shaft cover(where the TWO seals reside underneath, WTF?? Lots of crap in there that was cleaned out but the top seal spring/seal was still fine (after I tooth brushed the sealer and crap out...

As there is NO reason to put sealer on that cover, was that to hold in water/crap for premature failure??? F..ed up to say the least..

It took more time scraping that crap from the housing. Mid section bushing was bone dry (don't know how it didn't squeak)

Cleaned out all the old grease at the bottom of the mid section bushing, WP tube, etc. Splines were fine with grease.

Yamaha's water proof marine grease held all the seals with NO problem, light amount of grease on all the bolts after cleaning...

LU oil was clean but was due, no issue there...

A test run out in river, running like a top!! Water flow visibly better as well.


Here ya go, and that crap IS SEALER:

[Sequoiha]

No picture, but I run across that a lot . Usually that brown sealer in Mercury Bellows Adhesive. Tough to clean up.. And totally unnecessary .

[Sequoiha]

Ha, while I was typing the picture popped up. And it's not bellows adhesive.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ha, while I was typing the picture popped up. And it's not bellows adhesive.

Pic's wouldn't upload, had to load to Photobucket first...

Why the hell he put sealer on the driver shaft SEAL COVER I have no idea. I had to scrape that off before I could access the upper seal (pic shows the seal after I cleaned it up)

[pstephens46]

Found some of that crap on my first change also. Grease works fine if you feel you need some retention on these parts for installation. Sucks scraping it off.

[amahaork]

Nothing wrong there. Not sure why you not happy. It worked properly. how many seasons.?

[pstephens46]

No. The adhesive is BS.

[amahaork]

Most likely it is a perfect seal, not adhesive. Very good stuff for marine application.

[pstephens46]

Perfect seal takes a hour or more to scrape off? How many pumps have you changed? I know fishing guides that replace two every year. No one wants to deal with that crap.

[amahaork]

Perfect seal takes a hour or more to scrape off? How many pumps have you changed? I know fishing guides that replace two every year. No one wants to deal with that crap.

15 seasons with twin sterndrives and 4 years with outboard diy. Every fall removing drive, open water pump housing and leave rubber impeller resting, coated in oil, replace them every 3 years. Every spring pressure test outdrive, replace all seals if only one fail pressure, new oil. It is not a crap, going out is serious activity.

[rodbolt17]

perfect seal does not ever really dry.
weatherstrip adhesive does.
is it nessasary ?
no.
did the factory use a similar adhesive?
yes.
do I ?
no.
where is the beef?

it worked for more years than is recommended.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From the factory, there was NO adhesive. This was the first time (and only) time someone else changed out my pump (and used this stuff).

I spent probably an extra hour picking that crap out of the main pump housing where the two seals reside...(I used a kit and didn't have to screw with the cup).

The retainer and white plastic spacer come off easily (although I already bought new ones and replaced them while there). An open end wrench, a 2x4 and small slice of plywood (just sitting atop the LU) held the wrench perfect to the retainer when installing, pulling up on the driveshaft and tapping down on the retainer while rotating.

Using the Yamaha waterproof grease held the seals just fine, absolutely NO issues. The grease is easier and faster to apply (and follows the factory recommendation.

There were 3 seasons on the pump (yes, I know), flow was just starting to sputter from the tell tale, not anymore. Maybe half the arms had a set with a little bit of hairline cracking on the inner edge of the "set" arms...

[pstephens46]

15 seasons with twin sterndrives and 4 years with outboard diy. Every fall removing drive, open water pump housing and leave rubber impeller resting, coated in oil, replace them every 3 years. Every spring pressure test outdrive, replace all seals if only one fail pressure, new oil. It is not a crap, going out is serious activity.

I am not sure we are talking about the same thing. My beef is using adhesive to retain parts for reassembling the water pump. Makes an easy job more difficult the next time. Why make it harder? Put enough adhesive between the cup and housing and you will end up buying a new housing.

[rodbolt17]

the factory used a hard type adhesive.
it is gray colored.
only thing I can think of is it was used for assembly.
but yes the cups are sealed in place .
the very first time the cup is removed it can be a pain.

I use grease to retain the orings.
the factory used an adhesive.

[pstephens46]

Apparently Townsend's mechanic thought he would follow Yamaha's lead and use the same nasty MASTIC type stuff.

I recall now what I had to soak the housing and cup overnight in solvent to release the two. If you try to pry the cup out you will wreck the housing. I had no idea, I thought sand had been trapped and jammed it.