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Found a wierd spring on top of drive shaft seal

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  • Found a wierd spring on top of drive shaft seal

    Before I went to put my water pump back together I checked the seal on the drive shaft again to make sure I didn't miss anything. When I was looking around I found what I thought was an o-ring but it turned out to be a metal spring.

    I looked in the shop manual and I can not figure out where this thing came from.

    Here is an image of the parts breakdown and where I found it and a picture of the spring.




  • #2
    it is part of the top seal.
    holds a little pressure on the lip. or it is suppose to when intact

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
      it is part of the top seal.
      holds a little pressure on the lip. or it is suppose to when intact
      So I need to replace the seal(s) then is what I'm hearing.

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      • #4
        Not too terribly hard. Look at Marinetechtools website.
        They have a good video. You don't have to buy their big slide hammer either.
        Joys of boat ownership.....

        Actually it was fairly easy. Parts are not expensive. 2 seals and an o-ring
        You will spend the most time cleaning.

        Watch the video. Very good...
        Last edited by pstephens46; 01-22-2017, 04:54 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
          Not too terribly hard. Look at Marinetechtools website.
          They have a good video. You don't have to buy their big slide hammer either.
          Joys of boat ownership.....
          I sure would like to use it instead of working on it. The weather has been so nice I could be fishing everyday but instead I'm waiting on and replacing parts.

          I can't believe all this started from me trying to replace one little hose nipple / barb.

          Do the seals come in a set and if not should I replace both?
          Last edited by FL_Marine; 01-22-2017, 04:58 PM.

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          • #6
            Two seals and a o-ring. $7 each seal and maybe $5 for the o-ring.

            Watch video, then come back with questions....

            It sucks but hopefully this will prevent having to replace a $2000 lower unit when it fills with water.

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            • #7
              4 bolts and 2 medium screwdriver/prybars and the seal housing is off.
              DO NOT break the walls of the water pump base casting.

              lock the housing in a vice and pop out the seals.
              remove the oring.
              clean all surfaces.
              install the seal with a suitable driver to the PREVIOUSLY recorded depth in the housing.
              install the oring
              grease the seal lips and oring.
              install.
              Yamaha use two types of housing.
              1 had a machined recess for the thrust was and shims.
              that one you have to be careful with.

              the other is simply flat.

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              • #8
                Wonder if an O ring of just the right size and diameter to fit in that seal lip groove would provide sufficient pressure to replace that salt water prone to fail spring?....McGyver here

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                • #9
                  Saw a fellow use a nitrile ring once. Size would be the question.
                  Spring has to be stainless of course.

                  Regarding removal. I used a large punch and rotated that carrier housing to expose more surface on the bottom. I then used the most pitiful slide hammer on the planet from harbor freight. I could only use one of the puller arms because it would not fit with two. I tapped on one side of carrier housing and then the opposite side. Came right out.

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                  • #10
                    I need someone to look at the lower unit and tell me why the prop moves and clicking is heard when the boat is in neutral anyway and bad ratcheting when I put it into gear (forward and reverse). So I think I'm going to see what the cost is to replace all those seals and install my water pump parts.

                    I'm so frustrated with this boat, I think it's been a year since I had it out fishing.

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                    • #11
                      If the drive shaft seals are shot, no doubt the prop shaft seals aren't far behind

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                      • #12
                        what is funny is we don't see the spring fail on the propshaft just the drive shaft.

                        reseal job typically takes about 3 hours.

                        it is fairly simple.

                        during the summer we will do 5-10 driveshaft seal repairs a week.
                        we buy bags of ten and keep at least 20 in stock.

                        on the typical inline 4 F150 and up, 3.1L,2.6l the 3.3L and the v4 typically take 1.5-2 hours to do the pump and seal.

                        excessive corrosion can triple the time.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                          what is funny is we don't see the spring fail on the propshaft just the drive shaft.

                          reseal job typically takes about 3 hours.

                          it is fairly simple.

                          during the summer we will do 5-10 driveshaft seal repairs a week.
                          we buy bags of ten and keep at least 20 in stock.

                          on the typical inline 4 F150 and up, 3.1L,2.6l the 3.3L and the v4 typically take 1.5-2 hours to do the pump and seal.

                          excessive corrosion can triple the time.
                          Same seal for all those motors?

                          Rodbolt, what do you think about his clicking prop in neutral?
                          Last edited by pstephens46; 01-22-2017, 06:25 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                            what is funny is we don't see the spring fail on the propshaft just the drive shaft.

                            reseal job typically takes about 3 hours.

                            it is fairly simple.

                            during the summer we will do 5-10 driveshaft seal repairs a week.
                            we buy bags of ten and keep at least 20 in stock.

                            on the typical inline 4 F150 and up, 3.1L,2.6l the 3.3L and the v4 typically take 1.5-2 hours to do the pump and seal.

                            excessive corrosion can triple the time.
                            Rodbolt did point out the spring might be bad in your other thread.

                            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                            putting in more than ya got out is not abnormal.
                            however it most likely means the upper driveshaft seal garter spring has failed.
                            He refers to the spring you mention as a "garter spring", says it is common for this spring to fail on the driveshaft seal.

                            You may wish to review this thread on the subject.

                            http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...s-th27686.html

                            My opinion, go ahead and replace the driveshaft seals, do a pressure test on the lower unit. Put diluted dish soap around the driveshaft seals. Should be no bubbles. If pressure drops, then I would be concerned with propshaft seals. If pressure is maintained, you're probably good to go!

                            By the way, In that other thread, Rodbolt does not recommend using the screw method to remove the propshaft seals. But, I feel you will not have to be concerned at the moment.

                            But, like Pstephens said, "what do you think about his clicking prop in neutral?"
                            Chuck,
                            1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                              Same seal for all those motors?

                              Rodbolt, what do you think about his clicking prop in neutral?
                              Pstephens:
                              I could not find a post by FL_Marine about the "clicking". Maybe another member's problem?

                              FL_Marine, do you recall posting anything about this?
                              Chuck,
                              1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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