more crankshaft sleeve questions

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you cut the "lip" off the sleeve, you wouldn't have anything to put the installation tool on...

[pstephens46]

I am looking at the boats.net parts diagram and I see 3 seals that look to be at the bottom of pump. One inside pump and the other two outside bottom of pump?

Something else: I was watching a YouTube on crank/propshaft seal replacement. This mechanic visited some industrial supply store and purchased seals with two
"lips". Giving him basically 4 seals for the crank and prop shafts. Also replaced the garter spring with a nitrile ring. The springs that were originally on the "after market" seals were not stainless.

[99yam40]

a sealer is used under the sleeve to help stop oil from leaking under it, I do not remember what Rod said he used

[boscoe99]

How is the sleeve sealed against the crankshaft? What prevents oil from sneaking down in between sleeve and shaft?

Loctite 648 is what Yam sez to use.

LOCTITE® 648™ Retaining Compound High Strength/Rapid Cure - Henkel

[cpostis]

If you cut the "lip" off the sleeve, you wouldn't have anything to put the installation tool on...

If needed, the sleeve is removed AFTER installation.

Pay attention beginning at 3:00 into this vid. Especially where it is said "not just bottomed or left flush at the bottom of the shaft"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XIjYuhxKsw

[cpostis]

Loctite 648 is what Yam sez to use.

LOCTITE® 648™ Retaining Compound High Strength/Rapid Cure - Henkel

Here's what Rodbolt sez to use:

I have done many sleeves, some 3 or 4 times.
typically we see 600-800 hours between sleeve replacements.
I use locktite 518 on the sleeve ID to prevent leakage between the shaft and the sleeve.
no mystery in the pump itself only issue we ever have with sealing the pump is getting the screws out.

LOCTITE 518 Flange Sealant - Henkel

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If needed, the sleeve is removed AFTER installation.

Pay attention beginning at 3:00 into this vid. Especially where it is said "not just bottomed or left flush at the bottom of the shaft"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XIjYuhxKsw

Ok, well that answers everything about the wear on gsdanno1's crank as the wear looks to be out too far on the crank.

It seems you'll knock that sleeve on just enough for where your particular wear is, NOT BOTTOMING IT OUT, then remove the lip...

[cpostis]

Ok, well that answers everything about the wear on gsdanno1's crank as the wear looks to out too far out on the crank.

It seems you'll knock that sleeve on just enough for where your particular wear is, NOT BOTTOMING IT OUT, then remove the lip...

If the lip does not interfere with assembly or operation, you DO Not have to remove it. This would be the case in the sleeve/crank we're talking about. Other applications may require removal of the lip (I call it flange).

[pstephens46]

How often are these sleeves needed? Are there particular models or years of production more prone to developing grooves? Yamaha mentioned something about certain environmental conditions or usage patterns. I forget their exact wording. Frequent or infrequent usage?

Lots of question marks....

I wonder if Rodbolt ever sleeved the crank of the 8500 hour F150 he wrote about in a previous post?

[cpostis]

How often are these sleeves needed? Are there particular models or years of production more prone to developing grooves? Yamaha mentioned something about certain environmental conditions or usage patterns. I forget their exact wording. Frequent or infrequent usage?

Lots of question marks....

I wonder if Rodbolt ever sleeved the crank of the 8500 hour F150 he wrote about in a previous post?

Here's a quote from Boscoe from the other thread on this.

With either the early crank shafts (no collar) or later version crank shafts (with a collar) no one need be concerned. A concern only comes about if and when an oil leak happens. There is nothing that anyone needs to do to be "proactive" to prevent a potential problem, that only a small percentage of motor owners will ever have.

It is an "on condition" part. If nothing bad happens, leave it alone. If something bad happens (oil leaks) then a replacement of the collar might be necessary. Together with new oil pump seals or new oil pump if needed. Same with a speedy sleeve. More than likely it will last the life of the motor. But, if it gets grooved, and oil leaks, then it can also be replaced again.

A bearing separator and gear puller can then be used to remove the collar from the crank shaft. The production collar, being thicker than the speedy sleeve, has something for a puller to hang on to. The speedy sleeve, not so much.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the lip does not interfere with assembly or operation, you DO Not have to remove it. This would be the case in the sleeve/crank we're talking about. Other applications may require removal of the lip (I call it flange).

The pic of gsdanno1's F150 shows wear pretty far out. I'd be taking some measurements so the middle of the sleeve is in the middle of the "worn area."

Thinking about it, I think I would rather REMOVE that flange (if possible for a particular engine). Just so MORE oil would make it to the sealing surfaces. A new seal with no oil getting to it isn't going to last nearly as long.

That flange would tend to move / shield the oil away from the wear point, especially if their back to back..

Especially with 2-3 seals!!