pstephens46

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From another thread I didn't want to hy-jack:

"Bout time for Townsend to fire up this boat and get some salt on it. You did say you were waiting for cooler weather?"

Here ya go, it DOES float!!

Gorgeous weather this am, just about flat sea's (short of others boats wake)

Ran great! Only issue was the down trim stopped working (at both switches momentarily). Took two tries at the engine, worked fine after that at the helm as well..

I was able to trim it up a knats hair to 6,000 even and picked up 1 MPH, 46 MPH (per GPS) but with the tide going out (maybe 1 MPH)***











And the Yamaha Performance spec's for the boat are darn close as well:

[cpostis]

Alright Scott!!! Take the Okeechobee Waterway over to the East coast and I'll meet ya with a cooler of beer!!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Alright Scott!!! Take the Okeechobee Waterway over to the East coast and I'll meet ya with a cooler of beer!!

Heck, with all the Manatee idle zones, locks, I'll be there NEXT WEEK if I left now!!!!

(And the Okeechobee Waterway is right here and where I tend to hit oyster beds!! Thus the Skeg gaurd and SS prop)..

[pstephens46]

Wish it was me! Stuck in a meeting all day so just picked this up.
Looks nice down there.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The first 2 pic's are the canals to get out to the river.

The 3rd pic is in the river. Water was super calm, 71 F degrees.


For the electrical guru's (and battery maintenance):

I have an old marine starting battery that won't carry a load.
It's under my work bench with two wires coming up thru the
top of the bench for testing 12 volt items, etc.

The day before going out, I plug the GPS into it to find satellites,
basically boot up faster (spare GPS harness). Yesterday, I attached it
to the 2 wire harness to power it up (set outside for easier satellite access).

However, I could not get the GPS to power up BUT could read 12+ volts with
my meter at the end of the harness (WTH?)

Once home, I checked for what the issue is. I eventually
found on the positive terminal (marine battery with 5/16" stud) NO
corrosion, BUT a black substance (almost looked like paint) atop where
ring connectors attach.

It took a small wire wheel on a drill motor to get the base of that terminal shiny again.

That did fix it and allow the GPS to fire up off of it..

I'd never seen that "blackness" before (and it did have dielectric grease on
both terminals)..


*Point being, you may not have green corrosion, but get those terminals literally
nice and shiny for a VERY GOOD connection.



.

[Jason2tpa]

Seeing where your fuel/water separator canister is reminded me to ask y'all if there is a standard mounting area. Majority of boats I've seen has the canister mounted on the transom like you do, others I've seen are mounted in a storage box near the transom.

When I purchased my boat/motor the fuel/water canister was already mounted inside the center console, which lies directly over the fuel tank coffin, so that's where I kept it.

Is there a specific location the canister should be mounted, and if so, why?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Seeing where your fuel/water separator canister is reminded me to ask y'all if there is a standard mounting area. Majority of boats I've seen has the canister mounted on the transom like you do, others I've seen are mounted in a storage box near the transom.

When I purchased my boat/motor the fuel/water canister was already mounted inside the center console, which lies directly over the fuel tank coffin, so that's where I kept it.

Is there a specific location the canister should be mounted, and if so, why?

Well, I don't think I'd want a fuel filled canister where all the electric's are

My boat didn't come with one and there really wasn't any other place to put it.
The battery is located in the storage area adjacent to the filter, so no room in there.

I've seen some boats where it was tucked in (almost always at the rear of the vessel) a small cut out where it was safe from someone smacking/breaking it/the weather. (I do carry a spare steel filter-no plastic, should it get damaged / leak).

I originally had just the filter, no clear cup with drain.

I went with the cup years ago but there wasn't enough height for the bracket with the cup. I ended up making a 1/4" aluminum plate to bolt in the exact same spot/holes, and raise the cartridge mount a couple inches (to clear the cup with the deck).

My boarding platform is on the other side(port), so no one's tripping over cables, wires, fuel filter, etc...

Larger boats (with in-boards) usually have them under deck (with VENTING motors to vent fumes BEFORE start up).

[99yam40]

I have an old marine starting battery that won't carry a load.
It's under my work bench with two wires coming up thru the
top of the bench for testing 12 volt items, etc.

The day before going out, I plug the GPS into it to find satellites,
basically boot up faster (spare GPS harness). Yesterday, I attached it
to the 2 wire harness to power it up (set outside for easier satellite access).

However, I could not get the GPS to power up BUT could read 12+ volts with
my meter at the end of the harness (WTH?)

Once home, I checked for what the issue is. I eventually
found on the positive terminal (marine battery with 5/16" stud) NO
corrosion, BUT a black substance (almost looked like paint) atop where
ring connectors attach.

It took a small wire wheel on a drill motor to get the base of that terminal shiny again.

That did fix it and allow the GPS to fire up off of it..

I'd never seen that "blackness" before (and it did have dielectric grease on
both terminals)..


*Point being, you may not have green corrosion, but get those terminals literally
nice and shiny for a VERY GOOD connection.

seen it many times, but not necessarily on marine batteries.
need to clean well and then put grease or some kind of corrosion protection.

We had DC voltage equipment control on a lot of switch-gear, alarm systems, and rectifier units. Battery banks with duel charges, each one coming from different incoming feeders.
Even the feeders were set up with Main Tie Main breakers to cross tie the switchgear buses in case one feeder was lost.
Even if the whole plant lost both feeders we still had the banks to take things to a fail safe position.

Seems like I remember one post(+/-) usually did the black surface oxidizing and not the other. just do not remember which one.
I believe we need a chemical engineer to explain what happens to the lead surface

if you checked the voltage while under a load (voltage drop test) you would have seen it that way too

[TownsendsFJR1300]

seen it many times, but not necessarily on marine batteries.
need to clean well and then put grease or some kind of corrosion protection.

We had DC voltage equipment control on a lot of switch-gear, alarm systems, and rectifier units. Battery banks with duel charges, each one coming from different incoming feeders.
Even the feeders were set up with Main Tie Main breakers to cross tie the switchgear buses in case one feeder was lost.
Even if the whole plant lost both feeders we still had the banks to take things to a fail safe position.

Seems like I remember one post(+/-) usually did the black surface oxidizing and not the other. just do not remember which one. Test battery was + ONLY.

I believe we need a chemical engineer to explain what happens to the lead surface

if you checked the voltage while under a load (voltage drop test) you would have seen it that way too. The test battery I know is toast and won't pass a load test. It's strictly for testing SMALL items, firing up the GPS, etc.

Interesting...

For the stereo in the boat, there's two wires (besides others). One is just to keep the memory in the radio (for stations, time, settings) 100% of the time.

For a couple of years I loose that memory with NO battery disconnect. And it's the same super light pull for the GPS and the radio memory.

I'll get to both terminals today with the wire wheel on the boat. (Dielectric grease was always used on both but that black STILL showed up)...

[99yam40]

we used something they called No-Ox.
Excide (I think) supplied it with the battery banks.
Almost wax like, it was stiff enough that we heated it up and dipped the straps that went battery post to battery post.
also coated the posts and hardware with a paint brush to keep the connections from being in contact with air or the acid fumes that come from keeping batteries on a charge all the time in separate Battery rooms.

With the load test I was not saying to load test battery, just looking for where the bad connection was with a voltmeter when you hooked some small load like you were.
If you placed the meter leads on the battery posts and got 12 volts, I am sure when you checked at the device you hooked up you were not getting that full 12 volts do to the bad connection where the wire hooked to battery post

[cpostis]

we used something they called No-Ox.
Excide (I think) supplied it with the battery banks.
Almost wax like, it was stiff enough that we heated it up and dipped the straps that went battery post to battery post.
also coated the posts and hardware with a paint brush to keep the connections from being in contact with air or the acid fumes that come from keeping batteries on a charge all the time in separate Battery rooms.

With the load test I was not saying to load test battery, just looking for where the bad connection was with a voltmeter when you hooked some small load like you were.
If you placed the meter leads on the battery posts and got 12 volts, I am sure when you checked at the device you hooked up you were not getting that full 12 volts do to the bad connection where the wire hooked to battery post

I like No-Ox, however in the three marinas I was responsible for maintenance we used it only on conductors without terminals to fill in between the strands before placing them in lugs (mostly aluminum lugs). We found that it did not last too long on flat surface terminals. Otherwise, we used a moisture displacing anti-corrosive spray that left a dry film (LPS-1, CRC 6-56, etc.). On my batteries, I use the a soft wire brush and battery cleaner w/acid color indicator, then electronic cleaner making sure to remove all traces of acid. To protect them, I use the good old red battery protector spray. The nuts I use on the terminals are the "fat ones" with a larger contact surface area than wing or regular nut. The nut circumference is the same as the base of the battery terminal unlike the others I mentioned. I don't use lock or any other type washer. I do use dielectric grease in my spark plug boots and terminals. I do pull all my motor electrical connectors annually, clean with electro contact cleaner, and protect with CRC 6-56.

On batteries, I have the automotive parts store where I get them from check them once a year, even If they seem to be ok. Twice they found they were barely not capable of producing the rated MCA/CCA and replaced them at no charge.

Scott, I use a simple AC adapter connected to a "Cigar lighter" power outlet to power up my GPS to enter waypoints, etc.

Another thing. In my manual it says to use "Yamaha waterproof grease" when re-installing my thermo switches. Why? Grease is an insulator. So I use thermal mastic heat transferring paste instead.

Here's a pic of my electrical chemical arsenal, the nuts I use, and the power adapter for my GPS.

BatterCrap.1 by Charles Postis, on Flickr

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The GPS harness works fine in the boat itself. It's permanent, hardwired and sealed from water getting into the center console.

I do have TWO separate (adjacent) outlets in the glove box wired completely separate, fused separately, just in case one should blow and you need one for say a spot light.

Re the "work" battery under the work bench. I did find the GPS would fire up going DIRECT to the terminal's. I would get a reading of over 12 volts coming thru the end of the "harness" .

IT SHOULD HAVE FIRED UP with 12 volts showing but the GPS didn't-VERY ODD.

Once cleaned of the black, which the ring connector was attached to (apparently acting as an insulator), the spare harness works fine now.


I did pull the terminals / wires on the boat today. Hard to tell, but it certainly wasn't shiny. Took a wire brush to it (rotating brush on a drill motor), definitely shiny now, dielectric greased.

I'll monitor the "memory function" in the radio But I think it's the radio itself (it's at least 10 years old-Sony). Found one 6" speaker toast (cracked paper) and replaced both (had a spare new set) and saved the good one just in case.

And lastly, I noticed my "Salt Away" container was basically clear with fluid.
That unit apparently pulls "soap" and replaces with water over time (dilutes it). It was completely clear (no SA) so the engine got cranked up and a "treatment"....

[pstephens46]

Scott:

Looks like your anchor locker is also like mine. Big enough to accommodate whatever type anchor you choose. The newer boats have the framework installed that forces you to buy the Danforth style. Plus the line capacity of the locker seems limited. I use a Delta plow style with 200ft of 1/2 inch of line. I could fit 400ft if I desired. Nice to have the space....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott:

Looks like your anchor locker is also like mine. Big enough to accommodate whatever type anchor you choose. The newer boats have the framework installed that forces you to buy the Danforth style. Plus the line capacity of the locker seems limited. I use a Delta plow style with 200ft of 1/2 inch of line. I could fit 400ft if I desired. Nice to have the space....

If you close, up front, port side, just inside the railing, the anchor is mounted atop the deck (between the bow light and left, ft cleat).

As I re-call, I couldn't quite fit the anchor in there so I put the mounting hardware up between the cleat/bow light. I actually like it up there, it's easier to get to, un-do two small bungee's, drop it in the water.

Now there is plenty of line stored in there, along with extra line, a "drifting anchor"(like a mushroom to slow drifting while fishing) as well as a cover I sewed up (same material as the Bimini top) that attaches to the railing (via bungee cords) to keep out of the sun.

I had a custom cushion made many years ago that fits exactly in that bow section.

You can get two people up there, comfortably on the cushion, stretched out.

If you want to be in the shade like me, I stay under. The ex GF liked to tan, so I'd just slide the cover over so she's getting cooked and I'm not..

So when not fishing, just anchor up somewhere, bring the cushion, clip the cover to the rails. We'd often nap, (really fall asleep for a bit), or what ever.. Kinda like a cuddy cabin boat but a CC fishing, all around boat..