Cleaning Thermostat Housing

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had a flashback memory from my childhood after my last post. My father and I were cleaning the boat, engine on muffs. He filled his cupped hands full of water exiting the TT, brought his hands up to his nose to smell, then dumped the water from his hands and licked his palm. It's funny cause at that young age of 10 or so I thought for sure he was just kidding around with me.

Neat... Some of us old guys still have some tricks up our sleeves....

[Jason2tpa]

Very true!

But just a touch from your finger to mouth coming out the pisser will work..

(Now that, ^^ doesn't sound right, "not that there's anything wrong with it!")

I had a flashback memory from my childhood after my last post. My father and I were cleaning the boat, engine on muffs. He filled his cupped hands full of water exiting the TT, brought his hands up to his nose to smell, then dumped the water from his hands and licked his palm. It's funny cause at that young age of 10 or so I thought for sure he was just kidding around with me.

[Jason2tpa]

also do not forget to take the muffs off once finished flushing.
had a friend do that on a trailered boat one time.
the motor will overheat once you head out on the water.
It is hell to get old and forgetful

Dam, I've never heard of someone doing that. But I have seen someone at an auto gas station leave the nozzle in the tank after filling, then start car and take off. So you know, seems equal absentminded.

[99yam40]

also do not forget to take the muffs off once finished flushing.
had a friend do that on a trailered boat one time.
the motor will overheat once you head out on the water.
It is hell to get old and forgetful

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Aww man, food dye is for sissies. You've got to have an intimate relationship with your motor. Bess cozy up under the TT while she's running on muffs, then open up. Get a good mouthful. Swish around. You'll know immediately if you're pulling in salt water because of your pucker face.

Very true!

But just a touch from your finger to mouth coming out the pisser will work..

(Now that, ^^ doesn't sound right, "not that there's anything wrong with it!")

[Jason2tpa]

I will also add some food grade dye into the water at the base of the motor just make sure that I am not sucking up any salt water past the muffs and into the engine.

Aww man, food dye is for sissies. You've got to have an intimate relationship with your motor. Bess cozy up under the TT while she's running on muffs, then open up. Get a good mouthful. Swish around. You'll know immediately if you're pulling in salt water because of your pucker face.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your welcome Mike...

It should work being you have say 60PSI fresh water pushing into the LU.

The salt water, if anything, is being pushed away. The higher pressure/volume FRESH WATER (with tight fitting muffs) should work fine.

Merry Christmas!!!

[Ferris11]

Scott,
Thanks for the idea. I never thought about flushing a motor that way and I will try it next Spring when I get my boat back in the water. I will also add some food grade dye into the water at the base of the motor just make sure that I am not sucking up any salt water past the muffs and into the engine. I will post back next Spring with the outcome.
Thanks,
Mike

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a novice question, but after reading this thread, is it possible to flush a docked boat with the motor raised, through a running flush attachment, and with the engine idling for ten minutes without damaging the motor if proper water pressure is maintained?
.

My neighbor has a 140 HP, 2 stroke Suzuki that's extremely noisy on muffs (stored on 4 post lift).

He'll put the muffs on the engine, lower the engine (LU) into the water (so it's quieter), run the water and engine...

On his engine, his pisser DOES put out warm water once warmed up so we know the thermostat is open.....

He'll run the water a little bit after lifting the boat again...

[Ferris11]

and I never run an F225 on the muffs.
I typically flush using the port with the engine idling.
I do my F150 the same way.
however with the engine off flush water may or may not make it to the top of the cyl head.
almost all Yamaha tell tales stay cold as the water is typically taken from a spot BEFORE it gets a chance to cool anything other than maybe a fuel cooler.

I think the older F and T 9.9/15 used a combination of T stat discharge and cold water.

Just a novice question, but after reading this thread, is it possible to flush a docked boat with the motor raised, through a running flush attachment, and with the engine idling for ten minutes without damaging the motor if proper water pressure is maintained?
The main reason I'm asking is because I work with water soluble fertilizers which are types of salts and I notice that salts are way more soluble in warm to hot water versus cool to cold water. So in my mind I'm thinking that the warmer the fresh water is running through the engine, the more salt will be flushed out of the engine over time.
Thanks.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Kinda basic stuff, but direct from Yamaha:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJaTjMOEKP0

[Jason2tpa]

It is however very difficult for me to attach muffs. In addition, it is my understanding that you get better water flow through the block if the engine is in the UP position. My Owner's Manual also indicates to flush from the garden hose fitting with the engine UP.

Using the powerhead hose connection is when the engine should be up, engine down when flushing engine with muffs and engine ON. The former is because no water pump is involved, therefore the water pressure coming from the spicket is the sole means to move water through cooling system. Tilting engine up is to allow gravity to move water into passages it normally wouldn't if engine was down.

Let me add this fact:
I had a Yamaha Shop install my new T-Stats 3 years ago. It might be possible that they installed the new T-Stats but may NOT have cleaned the T-Stat housing area. If my Yamaha Shop didn't clean the T-Stat housing, then the salt build up in my photo could be from 1,200 hours of use. Not sure what the standard protocol is.

Unfortunately this wouldn't be a surprise to me. Actually, if your stat housings were quite corroded and they did clean it out they probably would have charged you for the labor it took to completely clean. Because as you now know, this takes some time.

[HMBJack]

Yes, because I am on a lift, I can lower my engine all the way down. It is however very difficult for me to attach muffs. In addition, it is my understanding that you get better water flow through the block if the engine is in the UP position. My Owner's Manual also indicates to flush from the garden hose fitting with the engine UP.

Let me add this fact:
I had a Yamaha Shop install my new T-Stats 3 years ago. It might be possible that they installed the new T-Stats but may NOT have cleaned the T-Stat housing area. If my Yamaha Shop didn't clean the T-Stat housing, then the salt build up in my photo could be from 1,200 hours of use. Not sure what the standard protocol is.

Scott:
In answer to your question, I found the best tools to do the cleaning was (1) a long handled flat head screw driver to do some scraping followed by (2) a flexible Pipe brush wrapped in Stainless Steel wool. The pipe brush diameter was similar to the T-Stat housing. Twisting this brush and SS wool in the housing area worked like a ram rod and pad you'd use when cleaning a rifle barrel.

[99yam40]

I am the Original Poster and here is what my T-Stat housings (all 4) look like now after I cleaned and coated them with a coat of oil based paint:





As stated earlier, my Starboard T-Stats on each engine had 50% MORE salt crystals than the ones on the port side of the powerhead.

My boat is stored on a lift so I cannot flush with muffs. I also am reluctant to running my engine with ONLY the garden hose flush fitting at the base of the powerhead because: (1) My Owner's Manual says not to do it, and (2) I think I will prematurely wear my water pump impellor. Agreed?

Lastly, because my starboard side T-Stats were so mucked up, one thing I can do is to flush with my engines UP and slanted over to favor the Starboard side of the powerhead (i.e. helm turned all the way to the right when engines are in the raised position). If I do this, perhaps my T-Stats will stay cleaner but I still plan to inspect and clean them EACH year.

Thanks and if you have a suggestion for me and my flushing, I'm all ears...

seems like if it is on a lift you could have the motor all the way down and not tilted at all, like it normally runs.

Rodbolt is a Yamaha Master tech that has done this and still does this work on Yamahas and other motors for a living, so I would pay attention to his posts more than just someone that is not( like me)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If I remember correctly, Salt X stated to do the opposite. Flush with fresh water thoroughly, assuming because of how strong the chemicals are. I don't know, I just followed the directions. And yes, it did leave a whitish water stain on motor.

From Salt Away's site (I highlighted the don't flush it out part):

"Salt-Away can safely be used on all metals, fiberglass, paint, rubber, plastic, chrome, glass, concrete, brick or any surface exposed to salt. Salt-Away, mixed with water, washes away the salt then leaves a protective film on surfaces until surfaces are again exposed to water or salt. Special high-performing corrosion inhibitors in the product help protect metals from corroding if not rinsed off. Salt-Away will not strip wax or cause streaks or spots. It is easy to apply by using pressure or power washers, Salt-Away's special Mixing Unit, the ready-to-use spray bottles for smaller jobs, and by immersing items into a mixture of Salt-Away and water."