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  • Prop Pitch Selection

    '98 S115TLRW

    I recently cleaned and replaced carb kits, replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel hose. Now that has been checked off my maintenance list it's time to address dialing in the correct propeller.

    When I purchased boat/motor from previous owner it came with a 21" pitch SS prop. The dry weight of the hull is 1100 lbs, 17' mod-vee bay boat. Running at WOT, 1/4 tank of fuel, and no other necessary weight, i'm turning 4400 rpms.

    For the sake of not spinning off onto other related topics, see above for the low rpms being caused by fuel issue. The height of the motor is also correct.

    Using Yam's prop selector webpage, the prop pitch range recommended is between 13" and 15" (confirming my assumption the 21" pitch currently on motor is over-propped). If you use the rule of thumb 150 ± 50 rpms for every inch of pitch:

    [Motor spec range is 4500-5500@WOT]
    13" pitch puts my WOT rpm range at 5200-6000
    15" pitch puts my WOT rpm range at 5000-5600

    I've read a few threads for similar topics. Rodbolt suggests using a test wheel to confirm a prop issue, rule out a motor or rigging issue. Problem is a test wheel seems hard to come by, at least in my area. The 4 nearby yam dealers do not have one (or at least not for public use), neither does the yam mechanic I personally know.

    Of the above two choices I'd go with the 15" pitch because of what the rpms would be at WOT. So before investing a bunch of $$$ on a prop I'd like your thoughts or suggestions in choosing the correct pitch. It may only be a pitch difference of 2" between the above props, but 2" could translate into a 200-400 rpm difference.
    Jason
    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

  • #2
    myself?
    I would try the 15.
    a 130 I rebuilt would turn 5300 using a 13x13 pushing a 21 sea pro with a hard top and a second station.

    you will find the closer to WOT it gets the more power the engine can make.

    but I still prefer testing it with a test wheel first.

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    • #3
      Thanks bolt.
      Jason
      1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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      • #4
        diameter, along with pitch makes a difference in props.

        design,number of blades, material it is made of, and cup

        there are many different designs of props to confuse the normal person

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
          diameter, along with pitch makes a difference in props.

          design,number of blades, material it is made of, and cup

          there are many different designs of props to confuse the normal person
          All that you say is correct.

          Even the propeller spe******ts can be confused. They will be the first to say so if they are honest. Just too many variables. Does reciprocity failure come to mind?

          The only way to determine what any specific individual wants out of a propeller is to test, test, test.

          Then throw engine mounting height into the equation and everything can change. In a New York minute.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
            Then throw engine mounting height into the equation and everything can change. In a New York minute.
            That's the truth. Engine height is also one of the most overlooked variables with boat/motor performance.

            Luckily, I guess, the 21" prop currently installed on my motor is very high on the pitch chart. Especially for the size of the hull. So I believe it's a safe assumption, 98% sure, the low rpms i'm turning at WOT are due to the boat being over-propped.
            Jason
            1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post
              That's the truth. Engine height is also one of the most overlooked variables with boat/motor performance.

              Luckily, I guess, the 21" prop currently installed on my motor is very high on the pitch chart. Especially for the size of the hull. So I believe it's a safe assumption, 98% sure, the low rpms i'm turning at WOT are due to the boat being over-propped.
              When I re-powered in 2007, it was very obvious they did NOT sea trial the boat. Trim tab on the lower unit was adjusted in the wrong direction(IE SUPER hard pull to the right) one full notch from center

              The engine, WOT was just shy of 5,000 and was a DOG, big time....Wouldn't lift a skier if you wanted to, it was so bad. (aluminum prop).

              Went to a local prop shop, told him what it was doing and needed a SS prop.

              Got me a new SS prop, swapped it. COMPLETELY different engine. It'd jump out of the water on plane, (I'd bet real close accelerating as the old V6 Evinrude 2 stroke it replaced). WOT is now 5900, about 47MPH per the GPS (and I know the engine is a bit low on the transom.) Got it right the first time luckily..

              The top end RPM makes a huge difference....
              Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 11-13-2016, 06:28 PM.
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #8
                Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

                The top end RPM makes a huge difference....

                You bet it does. I'm anxious to experience the change in boat/motor performance when adding 800-1000 rpms by having the correct pitch prop.

                I'm curious...why were you dead set on SS? Sounds like the problems you were experiencing before changing props had nothing to do with the props material. Some guys are dead set on SS, some on AL. I've read numerous prop test reports, the overall difference between AL and SS is durability, not performance.

                But again, some guys swear the props material does effect performance. I say, show me the studies and I'll jump on board.
                Jason
                1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                • #9
                  Where I'm at is a lot of shallows with oysters. I'm pretty good at finding them ( ) and the aluminum prop doesn't hold up well at all. I'd constantly be filing the leading edge as they get torn up easily.

                  The SS prop I have (since early 2007) still looks new. I also added a custom made SS Skeg-gaurd for more protection:

                  (if you look closely at the bottom of the Skeg Gard, you can see some horizontal "marks/scraps/oyster meetings") Lost maybe 1 MPH on the top end, other than that, love it..

                  Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 11-13-2016, 06:47 PM.
                  Scott
                  1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                  • #10
                    Sweet skeeg guard!!
                    Jason
                    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Aluminum props are great as long as they contact nothing but water. I.E. Lake use. We bump across sandbars, mud and oysters on a reg basis. Aluminum would destroyed quickly. Nobody around here has much paint left on lower units...

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                      • #12
                        switching to SS usually means dropping pitch a little because of the extra cup they add to the stronger thinner material in a SS.

                        I fish in water less than 1 foot deep normally sight casting to reds and even large trout from time to time.
                        al props never last a year
                        ss runs for many years. usually re hub a time or two before having the SS reworked by adding metal

                        choice of prop metal all depends on where and how you run the boat

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