Shock Treatment Done

[Ken]

Wally,
Man, that's a tough one.
Don't know how much room you have, maybe try to get a magnet down in there ?
I'm sure the nut is stainless, but there are different grades of stainless, and most are a little magnetic. A magnet on a flexible rod?
How about tape wrapped around a flexible rod with the sticky side out? Dunno ?
Good luck - and next time lay a rag under your work area to catch any fumbled parts [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

[Wally]

Since the shift rod just swivles I figure the damage that might be caused is minimal. At least until I find a steep hill (or ramp) to face the boat down so I can raise the motor up and shake it a bit. Maybe I can get enough of an angle to rattle that nut out of there (or from where ever it has gone).

I didn't put a rag under my work because I didn't realized there was this hole in the cowling for the shift lever. Especially such a big hole with the slope heading right to it. Strangely, there is even an arrow on the clowling under the manifold pointing to this hole. I was expecting anything I dropped would just drop right in front of me.

[Wally]

FINAL REPORT: I finished cleaning the carbs. I used the boats.net carb repair kits and a carb cleaner solution/kit from the local NAPA store. I dissassymbled each carb (left butterfly valve on the carbs) and soaked the parts and sections from each in the basket for a couple hours. I don't have the shop manual yet so I left the float levels as they were but replaced the float parts that came with the kits.

One carb refused to allow the main jet to come loose. I tried easy-out taps but couldn't get the jet to budge. It just kept disentigrating as I tried and so did parts of the carb (soft metal) around the jet. So, I ordered a whole replacement carb from boats.net which was another $169. They had the cheapest price I could find by far and sent an EXACT replacement. The total cost to complete the job was around $250+ considering all the different tap sizes I purchased to try to get that jet out. Of course, if the dealer couldn't get that jet out either I'm sure they would have charged me much much more to replace that carb. So it was a hundred or two, at least, cheaper than taking it to the dealer. Had I been able to get the stuck jet out the total cost would have been less than $100. $45 for the kits and $45 for the reuseable bucket of carb cleaner.

The removal and dissassymbly of the carbs was pretty easy. Be sure to place a rag under the carbs before starting to remove them incase a screw or nut or something drops down in the cowling. I lost a small nut in the cowling somewhere that I never did locate. It doesn't seem to be causing a problem, though. The only other issue with removal is to note the position of the oil injection lever that is attached to the bottom carb if you have a 2 cycle engine. The oil injection lever on the carb can attach two different ways, one of which is not correct.

As far as the results; I took the boat out to a nearby lake this afternoon. The problem the engine had been experiencing (popping and stalling at idle and very low RPM) was gone! YEAHHHHH! So doing the job myself was well worth the time and money I spent.

[Ken]

Wally,
Thanks for that great report - you are now the carburetor king for the 90 Yammie [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] !
Glad you got her fixed - next time my carbs need an overhaul, I'm bringing 'em to ya [img]smile.gif[/img] !
Ken K

[Mr. Ed]

Also glad to hear it worked out well Wally. Too bad about that carb though! Also gotta like that $45 gallon can of carb cleaner ... that only has 3 quarts in it (at least thats all mine had).

I've got the new CDI box and more carb parts coming from Boats.net. However, that stupid motor is running almost perfect right now (just a little sluggish on the throttle ... no bogging down to a stall). So, I'm thinking I'm gonna wait till it gets bad again ... and them start rreplacing stuff. I really want to know what the issue is.

Ed