2001 Yamaha 115 2 stroke unplugged wires (need help with ID)

[Lyrical Menace]

Hello all my first post here. Recently purchased a used boat with a 2001 Yamaha 115 2 stroke model 115TLRZ. I'm slowly learning how to work on this thing. When going over the outboard I noticed 2 wires that are not connected. I see no other wires in the general area that they could possibly connected to do I plugged them together and cranked the engine. Instantly I heard the alarm sound and I turned it off.

Can anyone take a look and tell me what these wires are? Are they supposed to be connected together? If so what would have caused the alarm? The wires do look a bit dirty and corroded. Here are the pictures. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[Jason2tpa]

Here are the electrical schematics for that model. These are for my '98 115 but I believe these will be accurate for your '01.

[99yam40]

may i recommend you not plug wires together that you have no idea what they are there for.
Find out 1 st what they are before just plugging them together

Not all wires are used on every motor/rig up

[mjf_1955]

Looking at the file Jason attached, starboard side, page 8-2, it looks like either wire groups K (to remote Oil Tank ) or G ( to Oil level meter.) . I would bet on G, as to me it makes sense, power (red), ground ( black ) , sense (grey ).

do you have an oil level meter installed?

[rodbolt17]

actually it is for the visual indicate for the overheat icon in the tach. some 703 control boxes wont support it and if plugged together you get an alarm. don't plug them together. or use the correct trim/oil harness and gauge.

[boscoe99]

Let's have some more photos.

I believe the pink and black wires leading to the connector with the gray wire and unused female bullet connector are from the trim sender mounted outside the cowling on the bracket. Is that correct?

What are the wire colours that are on the other side of the connector with the pink, black and gray wires? One looks to be green with a red stripe. What are the others?

[boscoe99]

Here are the electrical schematics for that model. These are for my '98 115 but I believe these will be accurate for your '01.

Not really. Your model uses a three wire trim sender. The OP's motor uses a two wire trim sender.

Too much information, especially if not correct, is not a good thing.

[boscoe99]

Looking at the file Jason attached, starboard side, page 8-2, it looks like either wire groups K (to remote Oil Tank ) or G ( to Oil level meter.) . I would bet on G, as to me it makes sense, power (red), ground ( black ) , sense (grey ).

do you have an oil level meter installed?

You lose. Pay up. Pizza all around for all.

[boscoe99]

This place is starting to become like The Hull Truth.

[99yam40]

everything you read on the net is true

[Jason2tpa]

Not really. Your model uses a three wire trim sender. The OP's motor uses a two wire trim sender.

Too much information, especially if not correct, is not a good thing.

Oops, my bad. Even though he and I share the same model I guess his being 3 years newer has different wiring.

[mjf_1955]

You lose. Pay up. Pizza all around for all.

OK, that will teach me to bet.

[bajakeith]

Lets get Real,,, Jap Crap outboard

they SUCK !! Go to any boat RACE and what is Running ? Not A Yammy out there !!

[throrope]

Like others note, not all wires in a harness are used on all models equipped with that harness. I repurposed "spare" leads for a trim gauge.

Looks like a nice clean outboard. You likely got a winner.

Some thoughts-

Often these sit for a while before the decision to sell is made and routine maintenance was due long before sitting. I suggest replacing the water pump and lower end oil. Any water in the lower end suggests a need for new seals. Both maintenance items seem expensive just after buying, but are trivial compared to the cost of a good running boat.

Our hydroscopic ethanol fuel can pull humidity out of the air and phase separate. This subjects the fuel system from tank to carbs to much greater concentrations of ethanol than the 10% it's rated for and with time resolves and gums up everything. I suggest draining the carb bowls at the screw. If crap or nothing comes out, I suggest you consider a carb rebuild. Also consider replacing all hoses etc upstream of the carbs to and possibly including the tank. Much cheaper than a failed trip. Carburetors are more susceptible to ethanol issues than fuel injection and fotunately cheaper to resolve when encountered.

Per our owner's manual available free online the on engine fuel filter is intended for cleaning vs. replacing. An upstream 10 micron water separating filter is a good idea. A reputable manufacturer's assembly will do especially since dirt can't read the label and they likely make them for Yamaha.

More often than not electrical problems are caused by bad connections. Corroded contacts sometimes work making them a bugger to find. If you encounter electrical issues, I suggest checking and cleaning every connection involved. Connection issues are cheap to resolve and must fixed before or after replacing expensive parts that are still good.

Beyond the above, avoid fixing problems that don't exist and spend more time on the water than the boat.