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Gas in tank went bad over winter. My first mistake was not draining it, thinking instead I could dilute it on through, as I do every year, and let the newly replaced fuel/water separator filter catch the crap. Although the fuel smelled worse this time, I knew I had treated the fuel with Stabil...... lesson learned.
In operation, engine began starving for fuel at high rpm. Filter changed again, showed plenty of water and "trash". Drained fuel tank. Pulled sending unit under floor access hatch, and can see crud, so I bought two gallons of alcohol and an electric fuel pump, and recirculate through system, filter in line, until things are looking clean and clear. Emptied tank of alcohol and let dry. Replaced pick-up and sending unit. Put in fuel and recirculated with electric pump. Changed filter, which again had some water (1/2 as much as first time). On water test; engine seemed like it starved again. Fuel line is clogging up, apparently from internal disintegration.
I gave up on permanent tank, switched over to portable. Up to this point, engine would start and idle fine. But of course, now that I have eliminated the permanent tank/hoses from the equation, I encounter rough idle, rough running, hard starting. I rebuilt carbs, clearing jets, but did not wait on carb kit, no parts replaced......... second major lesson learned......
...... on water test: engine would idle OK, got up to speed, then at WOT after a few seconds (maybe 1 minute) engine began to slow, eventually stalling roughly..... re-start attempts indicated engine may have seized, as it would not turn over, or would just barely turn.
I was thinking I had scorched #2, as I had some difficulty getting fuel to flow to that carb. Subsequent inspection revealed fuel in that carb, and all plugs looked the same: dry. So I'm sure I ran it lean, maybe lean enough to damage something. It has probably been lean during a lot of this troubleshooting.
I could turn the engine by hand from the flywheel, although it seemed somewhat tight to me. I put some fogging oil in cylinders, and briefly turned engine over with starter. It eventually loosened up to what seemed almost normal, while I checked compression, which appeared OK. I am not trying to start the engine, until I rebuild the carbs with carb kit. That's where it stands.
At this point, I was thinking in addition to carb rebuild, I should, as necessary evaluate/replace fuel lines, fuel pump, connections, and on-engine filter, Is there anything else I should do before attempting to start it again? Thanks.
P.S. I have already kicked my own ass for, first, not draining the tank at the beginning, and second, potentially compounding that mistake by not rebuilding the carbs properly before operating again, after “decommissioning” the permanent tank. No need to pile on unless you have an overly compelling urge to do so and think it will reinforce my learning experience.
In operation, engine began starving for fuel at high rpm. Filter changed again, showed plenty of water and "trash". Drained fuel tank. Pulled sending unit under floor access hatch, and can see crud, so I bought two gallons of alcohol and an electric fuel pump, and recirculate through system, filter in line, until things are looking clean and clear. Emptied tank of alcohol and let dry. Replaced pick-up and sending unit. Put in fuel and recirculated with electric pump. Changed filter, which again had some water (1/2 as much as first time). On water test; engine seemed like it starved again. Fuel line is clogging up, apparently from internal disintegration.
I gave up on permanent tank, switched over to portable. Up to this point, engine would start and idle fine. But of course, now that I have eliminated the permanent tank/hoses from the equation, I encounter rough idle, rough running, hard starting. I rebuilt carbs, clearing jets, but did not wait on carb kit, no parts replaced......... second major lesson learned......
...... on water test: engine would idle OK, got up to speed, then at WOT after a few seconds (maybe 1 minute) engine began to slow, eventually stalling roughly..... re-start attempts indicated engine may have seized, as it would not turn over, or would just barely turn.
I was thinking I had scorched #2, as I had some difficulty getting fuel to flow to that carb. Subsequent inspection revealed fuel in that carb, and all plugs looked the same: dry. So I'm sure I ran it lean, maybe lean enough to damage something. It has probably been lean during a lot of this troubleshooting.
I could turn the engine by hand from the flywheel, although it seemed somewhat tight to me. I put some fogging oil in cylinders, and briefly turned engine over with starter. It eventually loosened up to what seemed almost normal, while I checked compression, which appeared OK. I am not trying to start the engine, until I rebuild the carbs with carb kit. That's where it stands.
At this point, I was thinking in addition to carb rebuild, I should, as necessary evaluate/replace fuel lines, fuel pump, connections, and on-engine filter, Is there anything else I should do before attempting to start it again? Thanks.
P.S. I have already kicked my own ass for, first, not draining the tank at the beginning, and second, potentially compounding that mistake by not rebuilding the carbs properly before operating again, after “decommissioning” the permanent tank. No need to pile on unless you have an overly compelling urge to do so and think it will reinforce my learning experience.
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