Help with a few things on 1993 200 txrr

[sony224422]

I have a few questions.

I recently rewired my boat as some already know, and while out today we did a run out to our local sandbar. This is wot for about 10 minutes minus bringing the throttle back for some big waves, and everything was fine. We sat for a couple hours, and on the way home about 5 minutes into the trip at WOT i suddenly dropped from 5200 rpm to 4800 and eventually 4600 and it wouldn't go over it. I stopped, revv'ed the engine in neutral and was able to hit 5200 easily. I didn't sit at 5200 in neutral for more than a couple seconds, but when i went to take off again it was struggling to get past 3800 RPM and then it was surging to get back to 4800. I brought it back down to 1800 RPM and made it back to the dock. It idles fine, and it starts fine. I was thinking either or both fuel issues and spark plugs. I have only had the boat a couple weeks, so I figured changing the plugs and the fuel/water separator filter would be a good place to start. I wasn't sure if I didn't hook something back up electrically or if that mattered for this engine since its a carb. and not EFI.

I did recently change the fuel tank vent as the previous one was sheered off. I filled up and could see the fumes coming out so i'm assuming that it was working correctly (its a p style so water can't go back inside the tank) so i'm hoping its not a fuel tank supply issue.

second question, my trim and tilt yamaha gauge doesn't work. It hasn't since i've had the boat and didn't work before the rewire. It shows the engine always in the same place, on the last bar i think its #1. Its a Yamaha trim system so where should i start to trouble shoot that?

I think thats all I can think of

[sony224422]

Is there an easy way to test the coils? Also, what service manual are people using for this engine?

[ausnoelm]

First up, you need to do the very basic trouble shooting, remove the spark plugs, do they all look the same? Can you do a compression test while they are out? Can you run it on a remote fuel tank, complete with hose and primer and fresh CLEAN fuel? Revving it in neutral tests nothing, don't do it.

[ausnoelm]

OH, and the trim gauge is probably the sensor located on the motor, they break or seize up pretty regularly.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Part #6 is the trim sender. Make sure its in place and if the arm is moving as you trim the engine up and down

1993 200TXRR Yamaha Outboard BRACKET 2 Diagram and Parts

With the running issue popping up after hitting some waves, check the under cowl fuel filter, transom filter (if equipped)

Lastly, drain each carb bowl into a clean container and catch what comes out. We're looking for any crap, water, etc... It may have gotten mixed up (in the tank) with the bumps and got sucked into the carbs...

[sony224422]

Thank you, I'll have to do that all when the rain stops.

Something else I just thought of is that my primer bulb will get soft after running, and its a direct connection to the fuel pumps, i can't disconnect it like im used to on my old boat. Is this a problem? Should the primer be hard all the time after running or should i still be squeezing it a couple times before starting in the morning so that it starts easier?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My primer stays at least 7/8 full all the time, even after a month..

The primer bulb SHOULD be positioned so that the bulb is
VERTICAL. Fuel helps close the valve and not empty.

So, no, you shouldn't have to prime every time you start (for the same day).

Check for any air leaks at all your connections, fuel filter, etc..

[pstephens46]

I was able to free a seized trim sender with some silicone spray. No issues 3 years later...

[sony224422]

I was able to free a seized trim sender with some silicone spray. No issues 3 years later...

This worked great! I sprayed with WD40 and it eventually freed up and works like new now!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This worked great! I sprayed with WD40 and it eventually freed up and works like new now!

Glad its working but the WD40 isn't a lubricant to speak of.

You may want to spray something like a liquid wrench or better yet a spray lithium grease which will last much longer..

[sony224422]

I pulled the plugs last night and this is what i got. They look very worn but all look about the same color and electrode wear. So those will get replaced. I also ordered new fuel pumps too because I don't know the hours of the engine but it says every 300 hours or so they should be replaced. So maybe that will help with the primer bulb. I checked the fuel at the little bowl inside the engine and it had clean gas, i let it settle and no water or anything. I am going to replace the fuel water separator too. The last thing im going to do is just drain the bowls on the carbs to be sure there is no water in there.

[scofflaw]

Where did you read fuel pumps last 300 hours? Got at least a 1000 on mine, working fine, and on ethanol to boot.

[sony224422]

Glad its working but the WD40 isn't a lubricant to speak of.

You may want to spray something like a liquid wrench or better yet a spray lithium grease which will last much longer..

Yeah I was planning on doing that tonight. I wanted to get the corrosion off the spring first. Can I spray that on the trim and tilt pistons, they make a lot of noise. I suppose I should check the fluid in those as well.. i'm sure that needs to be changed too

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yeah I was planning on doing that tonight. I wanted to get the corrosion off the spring first. Can I spray that on the trim and tilt pistons, they make a lot of noise. I suppose I should check the fluid in those as well.. i'm sure that needs to be changed too

Mine squeaked as well and are original (10 years). I used Yamaha's waterproof marine grease which worked fine.

Put in on, run it up and down, wiped off all excess however, Rodbolt posted not to..

With that said, maybe ATF(same as in the tilt unit) or ?

I don't re-call anyone posting what to use (short of replacing the seals, which mine did NOT leak and didn't get replaced).

[sony224422]

I checked the gaps in the old plugs last night and the tightest one was .044 and the biggest was over .048. So new plugs went in.

I came across something else. It seems someone replaced the control cables for the engine, and they aren't adjusted correctly. How do I adjust the shift cable properly? It seems hard to find neutral, and when I was playing with the shift cable at the engine it was very easy to get it where it needed to be ( being able to spin the propeller with no noise)