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1991 TXRP oil delivery system issue

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  • 1991 TXRP oil delivery system issue

    Service shop couldn't repair it, pump relays ect all tested and working but STILL will not pump from remote reservoir and alarm goes off when at low mark. Manual override toggle switch does work! Puzzling ?!?! I am wondering if the TILT sensor is not working and that the motor thinks it is in the up position which I think disables the pump at the auxillary oil tank, however I can't find this so called tilt sensor!!! I was thinking that I would rewire/move the override toggle switch and mount it on the dash so that I don't have to remove the cowling every 1 1/2 hrs to fill the oil reservoir on the motor. Ps. The trim guage on the dash always reads in the full up position and this is not the original motor for my Hurricane FD 232 OB. HELP HELP HELP
    Last edited by jjoedivv; 03-20-2016, 09:00 AM.

  • #2
    well we know its has trim,its 25" shaft remote start and a 1991 production run.
    the full model number including any alpha and HP information would assist as the V configured motor used 3 distint variations that all worked somewhat differently.

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    • #3
      kinda new to outboards

      where would I find this info

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jjoedivv View Post
        where would I find this info
        On the data plate that is on the left hand clamp bracket.


        https://www.google.com/search?q=imag...gMwiaQrg2qM%3A

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        • #5
          6g6 ul759534

          Mechanic said it was either the computer or the wiring harness!!???
          Last edited by jjoedivv; 03-20-2016, 11:18 AM.

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          • #6
            200 hp 2 stroke salt water series. I think I found the trim sending unit on the port side of the bracket, can I disable to always read "down" ? yamaha part #6R3-83672-01-00
            Last edited by jjoedivv; 03-20-2016, 12:28 PM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300
              We need to know the horse power of the engine.

              In you header it shows a 1991 model TXRP
              A 6G6 prefix model is a 200 HP motor. In this case a 200BETO model

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jjoedivv View Post
                200 hp 2 stroke salt water series. I think I found the trim sending unit on the port side of the bracket, can I disable to always read "down" ? yamaha part #6R3-83672-01-00
                Do you have a Yamaha multi-function tachometer installed? If so, what are you seeing on the lights/icons?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jjoedivv View Post
                  200 hp 2 stroke salt water series. I think I found the trim sending unit on the port side of the bracket, can I disable to always read "down" ? yamaha part #6R3-83672-01-00
                  Why not replace the sender so that the motor functions normally? If you trick the motor into thinking it is trimmed down all of the time there is the risk that the oil transfer system will run the pump when the motor is trimmed up. It can make a mess and waste expensive oil.

                  But first, have you inspected the sender to verify that it is kaput? It is possible that the sender is OK but perhaps a wiring issue is causing the problem. Is the sender getting a good ground? Are there five volts on the reference wire? Is the pink wire from the sender to the CDI is good working order?

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                  • #10
                    so we have determined its a 2.6L v6.
                    means it does use a trim signal to prohibit automatic oil transfer if trimmed to high or the sender fails.\
                    does the trim indicate work on the tach?

                    what do the lights,bars or arrows indicate for the oil visual on the tach?

                    since about 1998 when I started with a Yamaha dealership here I have seen exactly TWO ecu failures.
                    one the oil pump failed and a tech burnt out the oil control circuits trying to test it.
                    the other was on an OX66 EFI motor that would drop spark on 3 cylinders below 1800 RPM.

                    I treally really doubt ECU failure.
                    I really really think you need to research this forum as I have flogged PBS to death and back.

                    but answer the tach questions as the system can almost trouble shoot itself if the tech knows EXACTLY how the system works.

                    its also the largest reason of techs flunking the master tech exam.

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                    • #11
                      I just purchased the boat and this is not the original motor and there is some unattached wires under the cowl but the trim sensor wires seem good. Note, I did find that the black plastic arm on the sensor was spinning as the center screw was not tight! The trim gauge on the dash has read buried to the right ( UP position) since I bought it! I think I'll have to do some electrical investigating on the connection from sensor to gauge on dash. Can you point me in a direction for schematics. I do have a Seloc book. I have disconnected the pump override switch and intend on routing it up to the dash so that when alarm sounds I can time the toggle switch to refill, at least I won't have to remove cover while balancing on the back ( I'm a slightly old fella hence the danger to fall or hurt my back) I'd rather things worked properly though.I do so very much appreciate all the advice NOW what are your thoughts and I need wiring info,sensor testing directions ect. Thanks ALL!

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                      • #12
                        Just fix the tilt sender unit, it's cheap and quick, rather than fool around wiring switches on the dash, the more you muck around, the deeper in unknown poo you get, toss the Seloc manual and get a genuine one.

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                        • #13
                          its a simple potentiometer.
                          hasn't been updated and if the sensor sticks and the arm gets depressed in shears off internal splines. now the arm moves but the screw that is in the rotating part does not rendering it useless.

                          if its stuck in the full up position no automatic oil transfer occurs.
                          manual still works.

                          it can be bypassed using 3 radio shack resistors and the service manual.

                          the manual give resistance or voltage outputs for full down and full up.

                          if your manual gives the voltage specs your going to have to do a bit o da math using ohms law and 5 volt reference.

                          I have done it before so I know it can work.
                          your going to end up with two resistors in series from orange to black with the third in parallel to the pink sender pick off wire.

                          the voltage drop on the trim sender from orange to black remains constant.
                          the pick off voltage on the pink varies with the angle of the sender.
                          once fixed it can be made to fool the ECU.
                          from there you can determine if you wish to replace the sender.

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                          • #14

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                            • #15
                              Or..... Just replace the sender unit, simple, probably take 15minutes

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