2004 200HP HPDI Oil Transfer Problem

[Fish Hawk]

I've checked the forum and found some great information. However, I can't find my specific symptoms: 1) oil does not transfer from the remote tank to the main tank, 2) the pump works when connected directly to a 12-volt battery, 3) the little filter/screen on the remote tank is clean, 4) OIL DOES NOT TRANSFER WHEN I USE THE EMERGENCY TOGGLE SWITCH--EVEN WHEN THE MOTOR IS RUNNING.

Any ideas? Thanks!

[99yam40]

Have you checked to see if there was 12+ at the oil pump motor with key on?
how about checking the ground side.
Switch just bypasses oil control to ground so need to break out a meter and start checking things

[boscoe99]

Yep, two things are needed at a minimum for the pump to run.

1 is for the oil pump to have 12 volts available to it if and when the key is ON.

2 is for the oil pump to have a ground applied to it when the toggle switch is pressed. No ground to the toggle switch, no ground to the pump. Pump no workee. No ground through the toggle switch, no ground to the pump. Pump no workee. No ground from the toggle switch to the pump guess what? Pump no workee.

There are many connectors between the engine harness and the oil pump. Any of those connectors can result in the loss of power or ground to the pump. No power, no ground, pump no workee.

[Fish Hawk]

Thanks guys. I have a meter. Tell me if this sounds right: 1) I disconnect the pump, turn on the key, and connect the volt meter to the positive lead from the 4-wire harness and to the boat's ground buss. I should get 12+. 2) I'm not sure about the ground test. How should I connect the meter while the pressing the toggle switch?

[rodbolt17]

I have beat this to death on this and other forums.

at the pump, brown is 12V positive any time the key is on, blue is the ground path when the toggle switch OR the ECU applies a ground.

place the red meter lead on the brown wire at the pump.
place the black lead on a good engine ground.
turn on the key, should have battery voltage.

if so.

move the red lead to the blue wire,leave the pump circuits connected for all tests.

with the red to the blue and the black to engine ground and the key on you should still read battery voltage.

now hit the toggle switch, you should read less than .5V.

[Fish Hawk]

Thanks Rodbolt. Much appreciate your repeating earlier advice. I searched the forums for quite a while and couldn't find this specific information. Great instructions; just what I needed. Will follow and report back. Tony

[Fish Hawk]

Tested voltage per Rodbolt's instructions. Brown and blue wires both 12+ to engine ground. No change when toggle switch is activated. Meter between blue wire and ground remains at exact same 12.45v reading. Mechanically, toggle switch feels OK; rest position is down; clicks up to activate.

[boscoe99]

Well there you go. Congratulations.

[99yam40]

Seems you do not have a good ground to the switch or the ECU

[Fish Hawk]

OK, I don't have good ground to toggle switch or ECU. What's the next logical step? Thanks again, Tony

[rodbolt17]

the next LOGICAL step would be to find out where you lost the ground path on the blue wire.

but that's just me.

[Fish Hawk]

OK. This is all new to me. Boscoe99 says there are many connections between the engine harness and oil pump. Absent any other plan I would follow the 4-wire harness from the oil pump and test the blue wire (for drop in voltage when I hit the toggle switch) on the engine side of each connection to identify the connection or section of wire which is bad. Make sense? Or is there a more efficient approach? Thanks again, Tony

[boscoe99]

1. We know the pump works because you applied 12 volts to the brown pump wire and a ground to the blue pump wire and it ran when it was connected directly to a 12 volt battery.
2. What appears to be the problem is that 12 volts and/or the ground are not getting from the engine to the pump.
3. The oil harness that runs from the motor to the remote tank oil pump, IMO, is the most likely culprit. There are connectors along the way that can fail and the wiring itself can fail. This harness for a good part of its length sits in a nasty environment. The bilge.
4. What I would do is to disconnect the oil harness at the motor side connector. Apply 12 volts from a battery to the brown wire in the harness to the pump and a ground from the battery to the black wire in the harness to the pump. Does the pump now run? If not, the harness is at fault. Does the pump now run? If so, it is something else.

Just test the harness and let us know what you find out. Here is a diagram so that you can see what the total electrical circuit looks like.

[Fish Hawk]

Thanks, Boscoe. I am studying the diagram. Along the bottom of the diagram, from right to left, it looks like the four wires from the pump go through a black connector with no color changes, then through a blue connector where the brown wire goes to yellow. Is this blue connector the place where I should be looking to disconnect the oil harness to do the tests?

[boscoe99]

Thanks, Boscoe. I am studying the diagram. Along the bottom of the diagram, from right to left, it looks like the four wires from the pump go through a black connector with no color changes, then through a blue connector where the brown wire goes to yellow. Is this blue connector the place where I should be looking to disconnect the oil harness to do the tests?

Yes. The blue connector will be in the engine pan.

Another thing you can do is to figure out a way to connect just the pump to the blue connector in the engine pan. Brown wire on the pump to the yellow wire terminal. Black wire on the pump to the black wire terminal in the blue connector. Yellow will have 12 volts on it when the key is turned on. If and when the toggle switch is pressed the ground will be applied to the pump and the pump should run.