Auxiliary Charging Circuit for 2002 F225TXR

[rodbolt17]

the regulator/rectifier has the isolator built in it.
all US market v6 motors since about 1990 had it.
finding the lead wire may be fun but its there.
once you find the lead wire run a properly sized wire from the battery to the connector with the correct circuit protection and your done.

[tmann45]

Anyway, after many words and pictures it is so much simpler and cost effective to use the Yandina combiner than it is to fiddle with silly Yamaha stuff.

Another advantage to this type of combiner is if you only have a single lead shore power battery charger it will charge both batteries automatically.

[boscoe99]

Another advantage to this type of combiner is if you only have a single lead shore power battery charger it will charge both batteries automatically.

Yep. Many advantages. I see little to no negatives.

Yamaha likes to add stuff to whatever they make. Their internal motto seems to be "it is takes three parts to get a job done then we must use ten".

One day soon I expect to see a relay used to turn on a relay that is used to turn on a relay that is used to power a component. Maybe with redundant wiring. With wire colors changing at each relay and to the final part. With none of this being accurately depicted in the Service Manual.

[rodbolt17]

you need no combiner or VSR.
your motor already has the isolator.
simply run a single wire.
yes
its that simple.
most riggers/techs have no clue its there.

[boscoe99]

But the combiner is less money to purchase and more time to install. Why have to route another wire from the motor to a second battery? Waste of time and money to me.

Furthermore, when someone with a combiner sells their corroded F200/F225/F250, or failed balancer F150, failed thrust bearing SHO/Offshore or failed exhaust manifold/flywheel/damper/crankshaft F350 they can reuse the combiner with their new brand of motor.

[rodbolt17]

DO NOT even speaketh about a V8
I have 6 of them apart now.
2 spit the thrust bearing and 4 with seawater in the cylinders.
and an F250 that's locked up due to the customer went from 4200 in fwd directly to rev.
that one I suspect a bent rod due to water intrusion.

and we wont even go into the stern drives.

[boscoe99]

I blame water up the exhaust in a motor due to operator error if and when the fool shifts from forward to reverse at high speed. Yamaha should not take the hits for this. But they do.

Maybe the throttle handle should have a gate in it to prevent misuse of the throttle handle. Like in some airplanes where the throttles come back only so far and hit a hard mechanical stop. They then have to be raised or moved sideways to go into reverse.

But, the more that a device is "fool proofed" then the more clever the fools become at doing an end run around the device.

[rodbolt17]

just like the isolator wire, its there just no one mentions it much. I still get asked all the time about that 30 amp fuse that goes to nothing on the 2.6L motor.

the guy ran acrossed a pod of dolphin and was scared he was going to hit one and panicked.

unlike the 703 and certain other boxes, the 704 and dec have no lockouts.

I have seen more than 1 F250 bend rods due to rapid deacceleration or backing down with 1 engine idleing.

[fairdeal]

the guy ran acrossed a pod of dolphin and was scared he was going to hit one and panicked.

unlike the 703 and certain other boxes, the 704 and dec have no lockouts.

well, at least he was a nice guy, who meant well

the irony is, the Yamaha engineers EAT dolphin

and we're not talking mahi-mahi

[sailorboy]

ok finally got pictures,
the larger red wire is going to the isolater at the battery bank. and is splice into one of the green wires between the stator and voltage regulator. i an not sure where the smaller red wire is going but it is also connected to the green and the larger red wire. My usual Tech is jammed with 2 charter fishing boats for the next 2 weeks. I am sure my starboard motor has the same hookup , just trying to understand what was done to the motors...thanks

[boscoe99]

The unknowing can do some strange stuff.

I thought you were kidding when you said that one of the AC feed leads to the rectifier/regulator had been tapped into.

[sailorboy]

would love to know where the pre existing tap is.....

[boscoe99]

would love to know where the pre existing tap is.....

The SM shows that it can be connected to a wire that runs to the starter motor solenoid post. In fact, it may be in use.

Go to the solenoid. Should be three wires (maybe more) attached to one side of the solenoid. One wire should go back to a post to which is attached one of the battery cable leads (positive). One wire should go to the trim and tilt relay (and on from there to some fuses). The third wire should go to a connector that may very well be connected to a connector attached to a wire that runs to a fuse.

Go and look at the illustration depicted in post #10.

[sailorboy]

ok... learning wayyyyy to much about this...

looking at the diagram in post #10 it appears the main charging line is a R/Y having a plug that goes to R and then attaches to the start solenoid (#23)...
now as i understand this.... there is a red wire from the solenoid to the tilt trim (not labeled) which is also connected to the R wire coming from (#14)the regulator, this appears to be a 2nd charging circuit with the red wire between the tilt/trim and solenoid being a redundancy loop.

if i wanted to have separate charging circuits... would i disconnect the red wire and run it to the house batteries?

according to the service manual the R (red) wire is directly attached to the start solenoid as well as the Red/Yellow ....there does appear to be a connection in line of the red wire