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Yamaha tachometer. 6YBT-11

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  • Yamaha tachometer. 6YBT-11

    Hi I need some help as to what extra adapters / pigtails are needed to get multi function tacho working correctly. I fitted engine and gauges myself but they are not wired correctly. The YCop does not work, it only beeps, trim does not move, revs do not show. I believe i need extra cable / adapter from engine to my long cable 6Y8-82553-21 and also have cable 6Y8-82521-31. I think tacho is 6Y8bt-11.. Tacho does start up but then shows like little boat in centre and does nothing else. Engine starts and runs perfectly.
    .Engine is Yamaha f50 4 stroke 2016 model.
    Hope you can understand this,
    Many thanks,Rob.

  • #2

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    • #3
      Thanks for your help Fairdeal. Does engine Pigtail connect to 4 pin with pink wires or to the NMEA blue / white. I,ve seen pictures of F70 showing 4 pin pink connectors as tacho. At hub end does it go in 6 pin bus terminal or 4 pin gauge outlet. I have tried using the NMEA connector but tacho etc does,nt work with that.

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      • #4
        There are two similar appearing,
        but very different,
        round 'multifunction' Yamaha tacho meters
        and they use different engine connectors:

        the 'conventional' 6Y5-***xx tach
        connects to the keyswitch harness for rpm input
        and also, via a 6Y5-83653-xx harness,
        to the 4-pin engine plug with pink wires,
        for trim position & warning indicators.


        the Command Link 6Y8- tach connects as shown above:
        to the engine CL/NMEA 2000 connector with the blue & white wires
        via 6Y8-82521-xx pigtail harnesses, inline hubs, and
        6Y8-82553-60-00 harness

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        • #5
          Thanks Fairdeal, I have the round 6Y8 but not working when connected to NMEA. Does it connect to main hub bus connection or 4 pin device connection ? Is there any checks I can do. The Tacho was brand new from Yamaha dealer. I was really hoping it would connect to pink wires and that was what I was doing wrong. I can do a continuity test on all cables but don,t know how to go any further. I really appreciate your help. Thanks again, Rob.

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          • #6
            The 6Y8 tach connects using a "Pigtail" cable -
            which has the same 4-pin connector on both ends
            so if you are using a "multi-hub' it connects to one of the "Device" ports.

            Again, with the 6Y8 tach, you will NOT be using the engine connector with the 4 pink wires.

            You will use the engine connector with the blue and white wires -
            and that has to connect, with a "Pigtail" cable,
            to a hub.

            You need two hubs:
            one for the engine harness
            one for the gauge.

            they can both be in-line hubs:





            or both be multi-hubs:




            or you can use one inline, and one multihub.

            But there has to be two total, one at each end.

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            • #7
              Thanks Fairdeal, I will try again this afternoon. Cheers,Rob.

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              • #8
                Hi Fairdeal, still no luck but I have realized I dont have resistor cap, is that necessary, would that stop it working.Thanks Rob.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by robanfield View Post
                  realized I dont have resistor cap, is that necessary, would that stop it working..
                  a resistor at each "end" is definitely needed for proper data transfer,

                  either the gray cap on the multihub

                  or the inline hub which has a resistor already inside it


                  here's what the resistors are doing:

                  [/url]

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                  • #10
                    Thanks again Fairdeal. I have ordered another multi hub and an extra end terminal. Cant believe it engine not starting now! Does,nt even fire, got a feeling kill switch has packed in. Is there an easy way to get a test on it without opening control unit, maybe at engine end, would it be 12v on white terminal. This is starting to wear me down, I should have just forgot about Tacho. Thank god your there!!!!!!! Thanks again, Rob

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                    • #11
                      the kill switch will of coarse prevent the engine from running -
                      it tells the engine ECM to stop sark and fuel injection -
                      BUT
                      Yamaha built in a nice feature:
                      if you are trying to start the engine with the kill switch closed -
                      whether you have pulled the lanyard, or the switch is 'bad' -
                      as soon as you start to crank,
                      the warning horn will sound.

                      However, you also have Y-Cop in the mix?

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                      • #12
                        Yes I have Ycop. I could disconnnect it cos I,m not sure if its working correctly. Hopefully when I get the new parts things could become clearer. I have charged the battery as it was showing less than half charged. The engine does,nt even cough just the same as when kill switch is off. It was running perfect in water tank a couple of days ago. petrol is getting through and there is pressure when I,ve unclipped the fuel lines either side of pump. I will have to check plugs next and see if I,m getting a spark. Thanks again for all your help. Are you in USA?

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                        • #13
                          WHOOP WHOOP, Ive just been out and started first time. Battery voltage must be critical as it was cranking. Now back to NMEA etc. That was a hell of a relief to hear engine start. Cheers for now.

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                          • #14
                            yes this is a USA web site

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