Command Link Gage Issue

[fairdeal]

I haven't tried it,
can't recall hearing of anyone else trying it.

It will plug in to the harness,
I'm confident it will start the engine,
but the throttle bodies on the F200 are different from the F225,
which makes me doubtful that it would run optimally throughout the full rpm range.

Would certainly give you another angle of attack on the engine position / tach issue

[Vulkanman]

I haven't located a 60L-8591A-31-00 anywhere, trying to save a little $$, but there is a 69J-8591A-31-00 reasonable with a 90 day warranty. I don't want to create bigger problems trying to save a buck.

[Vulkanman]

Marine Parts Plus shows it as an option is what got me looking that direction-

[Vulkanman]

Replaced the ECU with a used one from a 2007 F225, tach now works, indication system seems functional, but when I turn on the Stbd key I get a continuous beep-tone alarm, in neutral or in gear. Started the motor with muffs, idles a little high, maybe because it's not warmed up, I can hear something like a motor humming off and on, when I turn the key off I hear a series of clicks for a few seconds, the alarm doesn't change.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Replaced the ECU with a used one from a 2007 F225, tach now works, indication system seems functional, but when I turn on the Stbd key I get a continuous beep-tone alarm, in neutral or in gear. Started the motor with muffs, idles a little high, maybe because it's not warmed up, I can hear something like a motor humming off and on, when I turn the key off I hear a series of clicks for a few seconds, the alarm doesn't change.

That clicking is likely the idle control valve re-setting, for the next start up, which is normal..

[Vulkanman]

That clicking is likely the idle control valve re-setting, for the next start up, which is normal..

The Port engine doesn't do it. Now I'm wondering what all they tried before I got the boat, the connections were all goofed up on the key switches & the CL hubs.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

https://vimeo.com/264625510

[Vulkanman]

So I got a chance to work on the boat again, a few things of note:
Stbd motor: The YDS static tests don't run, it says the engine is running or is in F/R.
The YDS will connect without the key being on. The YDS says Dual Engine switch is on.
The alarm comes on as soon as I turn the key to on, it will start & run.
The alarm stays on even if I shift to F/R.

Port: The YDS doesn't connect to the engine without the Port keyswitch being on, and static tests run fine.
The YDS says Dual Engine Switch is off regardless of whether the Stbd key is on or off.

It appears as though something is mis-wired. Another thought is that when I got the boat there was no E-stop lanyard switch, it had been removed. The new keyswitch panel has one.

[Vulkanman]

And complete frustration sets in.
I understand that the horn is sounded by a ground on the pink wire from the ECU, which reads at every point at 17 ohms to ground. Unplugged the 10-pin connector at the engine and there it is. Unplugged the ECU and the ground is gone. Plug in the ECU and the pink wire reads 17 ohms to ground.
I disconnected every plug on the harness without changing more than an ohm here and there. I take the ecu back out, read from pin 3 - pink wire to either of the black wires and have the same 17 ohms.
I don't get it.

[Vulkanman]

Research led me to adjusting the TPS, Port was low, Stbd was high. Now I can do the Stationary tests on YDS with either engine, everything looks normal, Command Link works, but I still have a continuous alarm anytime the Stbd key switch is turned on.
For some reason I can connect YDS on the Stbd engine anytime the Port switch is on.

[Vulkanman]

Let's see if the attachments attach-

[Vulkanman]

I understand that the alarm comes from the dual engine switch, I just don't understand why it's on?

[Vulkanman]

Swapped ECUs between port & stud, the alarm followed, it’s either some incompatibility between the 200 & 225 or it’s another bad ECU that still allows the engine to run fine?

[Vulkanman]

I just noticed that the Intake Temperature on the ECU that doesn't output anything to the Command Link has been fluctuating and reads significantly lower than actual temperature, regardless of which engine it's on.

[Vulkanman]

I replaced the ECU with a used one from a 2006 F200, everything works fine, no alarms, all gauges work, engines start & idle fine on the hose. The temperature fluctuations on the TDS have disappeared. The downside is that I now show 1700 hours on the engine instead of 790. It seems that it was just a bad ECU.
Sea trial tomorrow.