JB Weld or Speedi Sleeve to fix scratched shaft?

[BrianMila]

Anyone ever tried using JB Weld or a speedi sleeve to repair a scratched input shaft oil seal? Looks like the previous owner pried out the old seals with a screwdriver or something and scratched it all up. In addition, it looks like a contaminant got in there near the bushing and gouged it up. I think I'm going to try using JB Weld to fill the scratches and then smooth it down with like a 1500 grit wet sand. I'm experimenting right now to see how well it fills scratches on a sample pipe. But I figure if the JB weld doesn't work, I might try a speedi sleeve to resurface the entire oil seal area, but I'm concerned about being able to install it correctly. Another thought I had was to have a machine shop put it on the lathe but then I'd need custom oil seals. Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. Oh, I should mention, this is for a 1987 25HP Yamaha so I don't think I'd be able to find any replacement input shafts for it. And its not going to see a ton of use, maybe a hundred hours a year at most.
shaft.jpg

[ausnoelm]

JB weld will not fix that, you're just wasting time and effort.

[99yam40]

a good machine shop could weld up and machine back to spec, probably be expensive tho

speedy sleeve could work, but may have to have them turn it down and then install the sleeve.
long pipe machined to fit probably needed to install it

[robert graham]

Speedy sleeve could be an ideal solution for that....maybe take the buggered up shaft to the boat shop/marina for their thoughts and prices......can’t Imagine it could cost ver much....

[zenoahphobic]

Sure is marked. What would have been the point being so aggressive in removing a SEAL like that, no new seal was then going to work?
No matter what the raised edges will need to be smoothed.

[99yam40]

people will drill into the seals and screw in sheet meatal screw to try to pull them instead of doing it correctly.

might try knocking off the high spots and polishing the gouges/shafts to see if the double seals will hold.
but It does not look like they will from my side of the screen

[Bluefish]

I see the seal marks in the depression of the marks looks like you could just polish them out and still have an adequate seal. Mic out before starting. Backup plan speed seal.

[BrianMila]

Thanks for all the quick replies! ausnoelm you were right about the JB Weld. On my test pipe I scratched it, then sanded down the high spots, filled the scratches with JB, then sanded after it dried. It shrunk a little, which I probably could compensate for, but the big problem was that using my fingernail I could chip out the JB Weld. It seems that there isn't enough surface area for it to bond with. So I think that leaves me with just sanding it down and hoping for the best. And if it still leaks I'll try the Speedi Sleeve thing next.

So last question then: Does anyone know how I can find out what the tolerances are for the oil seal? I need to know how much material I can remove from the shaft and have the oil seal still be effective. I think if I can take off 0.001" or 0.002" that would remove a lot of the scratches. Anyone know where I can find the tolerances for the oil seal itself?

[99yam40]

I do not think you will find anything on that,
so you might measure a new seal ID and the shaft surface OD to see what the difference is before you start polishing.
I would concentrate on the gouges and do not remove any more that you have to.
need to remove all sharp edges and polish smooth, the rubber seal will flex some and try to keep in contact to the surface

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd file down the high spots and find a really good TIG welder and try filling in the deep gouges (from the screw driver).
A good welder can fill those in.

Depending how well he does, (keeping the filled spots small), you may be able to sneak up on it with a file. If not, a lathe may be needed.

Where the seals rode don't appear too bad, the nicks are the worst...


.

[BrianMila]

Well I ended up taking off 0.003" which I hope isn't too much (1500 grit took the material off faster than I expected). I'm afraid to take anymore off. The speedi sleeves are 0.011" thick so in theory I could take off another 0.007" and if its too much then I could install one of those. But I think I'll just try the seals like this and see if they hold. Its definitely an improvement over where it was at. Thanks for all the insights everyone.
shaft scratch polished.jpg

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I gather that's already a sleeve on there looking at all the small peening marks off to the right correct?

If so, removing that sleeve and making a new one would be considerably easier..

.

[ausnoelm]

I was kind if wondering about that, but wasn't sure enough to say something.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was kind if wondering about that, but wasn't sure enough to say something.

Yep, looking even closer at it, the other end, it sure looks like a sleeve. That'd be easy enough to cut off (cut off wheel carefully) and make another one..
A bit more room to work with.

.

[BrianMila]

Just wanted to follow up on this so anyone who stumbles onto this in the future will have the solution. I wet sanded it down to take the rough edges off, put it back together, but it failed pressure testing when the shaft was rotated. I ended putting on the Speedi Sleeves. I needed to use 2 of them back to back. Installation wasn't difficult, but had to install them in reverse (flange out) so that when you tear the flange off its fully seated. They worked great, no more leaks!!! Held pressure and tested in a tank of water ok. Will take it out next weekend for the full test. Thanks for all the help on this.