2006 F115 trim/tilt BLEED procedure?

[HerbWilson]

Have a leaking seal on a trim cylinder on a 2006 F115 (showa unit-I believe?). Ordered a spanner wrench and seals and orings for that cylinder. The repair process does not look too bad. I am worried abut the bleed procedure afterwards. With the T/T unit on boat, I will fully extend the trim and tilt rods, use manual lock, remove trim cylinder end cap, rebuild it, evacuate the existing T/T fluid,, refill with fresh fluid to bottom thread and reinstall the end cap. I intend on only rebuilding the leaking trim ram. Really don't want to mess with the other trim ram or tilt. Ain't broke so I ain't fixing it. I do have a yamaha repair manual. To bleed I intend to follow instructions in the manual.

BLEEDING THE POWER TRIM AND
TILT UNIT
NOTE:
Install the power trim and tilt unit onto the
outboard before bleeding.
Bleed:
• Air bubbles
(from the power trim and tilt unit)
Bleeding steps
(1) Connect the battery leads to the battery.
(2) Loosen the manual valve 1 by turning
it counterclockwise until it stops.
(3) Tilt up the outboard fully, then release
it, and let it lower by its own weight.
(4) Tighten the manual valve by turning it
clockwise.
(5) Let the power trim and tilt fluid settle
for about 5 minutes.
(6) Push and hold the power trim and tilt
switch in the up position until the outboard
is fully tilted up.
(7) Turn the tilt stop levers to support the
outboard. Then, let the power trim and
tilt fluid settle for about 5 minutes.
(8) Remove the reservoir cap 2 and check
that fluid is up to the brim as shown.
Add fluid if the level is below the brim.
(9) Install the power trim and tilt reservoir
cap.
(10) Repeat the above steps two or three
times until the power trim and tilt fluid
is at the correct level.

Is this the correct bleed procedure to perform after rebuilding a trim ram and evacuating the T/T fluid? I imagine if I can't raise it the whole way in step 6, I'd loosen the manual valve and lift the engine manual to fully up and then tighten the manual valve and proceed to step 7 from there.

Read about one guy blowing off the reservoir from overfilling. Just trying to prevent something like that.

Others mentioned not using the manual release at all and it being self-bleeding, whatever that means.

[fairdeal]

Yes, that's the procedure, which is really very simple;

you need to cycle the unit -
so all all 3 rams -
from full retraction to full extension,
several times,
and each time they are fully extended,
remove the reservoir cap, add fluid to overflowing, and re-cap.

If the rams don't fully move (because of air present)
you have to 'help' by pulling or pushing
to ensure the full stroke is completed.
(so that could mean manually tilting the engine up)

Since "Air rises" after a few cycles
the air will have ended up in the top of the reservoir chamber
where it gets displaced by the fluid you add while the cap is off.


The reservoir is designed to withstand pressure;
its always pressurized when the pistons are not extended,
that's why Tthe only time you remove the reservoir cap
is when the pistons are fully extended.
(engine fully tilted up)