Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

O2 Sensor in Yamaha FT60DET 2008

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Thanks for the warning. Wont push the engine no WOT testing. Will lean out when I have the AR meter plumbed into the exhaust cover. I dont think that a 15 :1 mixture or even slightly leaner will melt anything especially when she wont get any hotter than 68 C (engine coolant) I am "over propped" as has been surmised above using a 25 inch pitch. The reasons : like the sound of 3200 rpm and 22 knots, the "other" driver cant really speed or over rev the engine (its a 2008) and I plan (or thinking about) installing a dolphin hydrofoil but below the leg not on the cavitation plate. Of course the wing will have to be reshaped or made from scratch since it wasn't designed to have its own strut.

    Comment


    • #32
      to clarify; will fix the "vacuum" pressure regulator before attempting to lower the fuel pressure with a motor con*****er (PWM speed reducer) It might be that the pump will stall below a certain speed or the pressure will suddenly fall and the injectors may not properly dispense or atomize the fuel. lets hope that doesn't happen in the middle of the East Lamma Channel (a major shipping traffic lane in Hong Kong)

      Comment


      • #33
        In addition to being over propped, and running on the lean side of best power by reducing the fuel pressure, it might be a good idea to install a much hotter thermostat to get the engine temperature up 30 degrees F or so. Also, I would shave the cylinder head about .050" to get the compression up. And, for fastest fuel burn be sure and run gasoline rated at 86 octane.

        Comment


        • #34
          a uick test of the regulator/sense line.
          simply start the engine.
          watch the rail pressure.
          unplug the sense line.
          fuel pressure should spike by about 5 PSI.

          if it does not find the problem with the regulator or sense line or vacuum source.

          like I said ALL the engineering work has been done for that motor.

          no other parts or engineering is required.

          most critters with opposable thumbs can fix them.
          .
          remember that ECU is stupid.
          its a simple truth table.

          the ECU doesn't know its stupidly over propped(engine is overloaded) it simply looks at the baro pressure,TPS voltage,MAP pressure,intake air temp,engine temp and engine speed.
          then it attempts to alter fuel delivery and ign timing for what SHOULD be the correct engine speed.

          always remember at the ECU, garbage in means garbage out.

          with an F60 a 25" pitch prop would most likely overprop on a plywood plank.

          I have an 18" champion bass boat with a 95 200 EFI merc that swings a 13 1/4x26.

          Comment


          • #35
            Installed the speed con*****er (reducer)(PWM)(pulse width modulator) before the electric fuel pump. Able to reduce the speed of the pump motor smoothly. The reduction in motor speed reduced the fuel pressure. Reduced it to 20psi while "cruising" at 4 knots at 800 rpm. Fuel consumption : 180 ml / km. Best ever. Run was made with the tide and wind and against to minimize effects of currents, wind etc.

            Looking for the best air/fuel meter which might also include exhaust temperature? Any ideas? Engine not happy (miss firing loss of power) with much below 30psi fuel pressure at 2800 rpm and 15 knots. Need that air /fuel ratio meter. Read somewhere that best fuel economy was had at max torque rpm? 3500 rpm for this engine?

            Still cant quite comprehend why design coolant temp is sooo cool. 65 C. ??? Maybe up to 67 after a WOT run. Car engines including marine inboards run over 85 C and even up to 110. Obviously wouldn't work on a raw water system if the max temp was over 100 as one might get pockets of boiling water in the head coolant passages.

            Comment


            • #36
              Your outboard, isn't designed to run hot (water temp wise). If it did, in salt/brackish water, it would cook the salt into the coolant passages of your coolant system and clog it up.

              Many overheating issues are due to salt build up in the coolant passages/head (even running cooler) as folks don't flush their engine with fresh water after use..
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

              Comment


              • #37
                Leakdown/compression test/..also if pressure normalizes check vst float setting ?? sticking ??

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Christian View Post
                  Installed the speed con*****er (reducer)(PWM)(pulse width modulator) before the electric fuel pump. Able to reduce the speed of the pump motor smoothly. The reduction in motor speed reduced the fuel pressure. Reduced it to 20psi while "cruising" at 4 knots at 800 rpm. Fuel consumption : 180 ml / km. Best ever. Run was made with the tide and wind and against to minimize effects of currents, wind etc.

                  Looking for the best air/fuel meter which might also include exhaust temperature? Any ideas? Engine not happy (miss firing loss of power) with much below 30psi fuel pressure at 2800 rpm and 15 knots. Need that air /fuel ratio meter. Read somewhere that best fuel economy was had at max torque rpm? 3500 rpm for this engine?

                  Still cant quite comprehend why design coolant temp is sooo cool. 65 C. ??? Maybe up to 67 after a WOT run. Car engines including marine inboards run over 85 C and even up to 110. Obviously wouldn't work on a raw water system if the max temp was over 100 as one might get pockets of boiling water in the head coolant passages.
                  Yamaha does not provide torque/HP curves so it is difficult to know if best economy occurs at either maximum torque or maximum HP. It might be neither. Keep in mind the curves are not the same.

                  From looking at a number of performance bulletins you will see that most single powered boats get best economy at or around 4000 RPM. In twin powered boats it is a somewhat lower RPM. A lot of variables enter into the equation.

                  With respect to an air/fuel meter and an EGT meter I got mine from this website

                  http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...em-electronics
                  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-5131

                  If you start playing with injectors and/or fuel pressures to alter the air/fuel ratio at different loads and RPM's you will be your own test engineer. You might want to buy a couple more FT60's to replace those that get damaged during experimentation.

                  Townsends has already addressed engine operating temperatures. Note that the thermostat starts to open at 140 degrees F and should be fully open at 158 degrees F. You simply can't compare an outboard motor to an automobile motor any more than an automobile motor can be compared to an air plane piston motor.

                  I am left wondering where in the world a propeller that fits a Yamaha F60 would come from with a 26" pitch. Highest pitch offered by Yamaha is 17".

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    lol

                    This is the craziest post I have ever read,,anywhere !! and too top it off with a 26 pitch prop !!!!!!

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by bajakeith View Post
                      This is the craziest post I have ever read,,anywhere !! and too top it off with a 26 pitch prop !!!!!!
                      We're simply, slowly, methodically, watching the death of an engine... And then the "fix it" thread to follow...
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Apparently, Yamaha, not knowing what they were doing, made this engine run much too cold and much too rich.

                        This is the craziest thread that I have read in a long long time.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          looks like a ***** to me

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                            looks like a ***** to me
                            That's the word via PM's....
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Too right! I just did a 10 % solution hydrochloric acid recirculated rinse. Alot of garbage came out.....including bits of the zincs....so got to change those.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Its a 25 inch part # 6E5 45956 -00

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X