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2000 200hp Saltwater series 2 stroke waterpump kit missing washers

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  • 2000 200hp Saltwater series 2 stroke waterpump kit missing washers


    Bought an OEM Yamaha waterpump service kit.Missing was the washers and plastic washer retainer.2 flat, 1 wavy, and plastic slit washer retainer...all missing from the kit.Is it an acceptable practice to reuse the old ones if in usable condition?? The kit seems to be very complete with replacement key and studs which I didnt assume were necessary.However I do assume the washers are necessary.I am new to Yammys so help me out here if you have done this before.Thanks Charlie

  • #2
    Folks replace JUST the impeller at times, re-using the above mentioned parts.

    If the old parts (those washers, etc) are fine, it won't hurt to re-use them.. ]

    Rubber gaskets, those, I wouldn't re-use depending on age..

    Make sure you pull up on the drive shaft while tapping the washers downward-
    (To keep the driveshaft from going slightly up and down and making an annoying knocking sound).


    .
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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    • #3
      [QUOTE=TownsendsFJR1300;n228247

      Make sure you pull up on the drive shaft while tapping the washers downward-
      (To keep the driveshaft from going slightly up and down and making an annoying knocking sound). QUOTE

      THANKS,i saw that tip on youtube however didnt see it in the clymer manual.I have done Mercruiser waterpumps dozens of times and the kit also includes the entire pump housing and not just the ss cup.I cant see replacing just the impeller .If you are going through the trouble of taking everything apart it makes common sense to replace everything for a few bucks more.You are doing the exact same amount of work by reusing the old parts.Charlie

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      • #4
        they include some things and exclude others that we think should be included some times in different kits, not just the water pump.
        if the housing looks melted buy a new one
        that plastic retainer might be one to get new if damaged while removing.

        I found orings missing from carb kits before and was told to just buy what you need when you need it, sounded not to bright to me.
        it is what it is, we just have to live with it all

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        • #5
          Just to clarify, as you pointed out, your already there, replace most everything (cept the housing un-less it's damaged as it's not included in the Yammy kit).

          Can you re-use the retainers as you asked, yes, as long as their in good shape (and un-damaged when removing)..

          You'll find those retainers work VERY WELL when you try to remove them(go around slowly and gently pry up all the way around a lil at a time).

          I use an open end wrench that just slips around the drive shaft. Supporting it parallel, I gently pull up on the
          shaft while tapping down (and rotating the drive shaft) on the wrench end. That get's it good and snug..


          FYI, from my Yamaha manual:


          Capture.JPG






          Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 11-19-2020, 05:55 PM.
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Nice diagram,Thanks guys!!

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            • #7
              I find slot of yammy pump housings melted. BAD design . Charles look under the wear plate and the POS plastic dust cap (black) and check the small ss seal spring. They go bad often in da salt. The pump housings usually melt at the top of the housing on the inside above the "cup"... if replacing remove the very top, black water outlet seal and install to new pump housing.. I always grind down the new keyway and install with"Tripble guard grease" when install the two O rings above the cup I use Gas

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              • #8
                Grrr. Gasgacinch or OMC gasket compoud

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Keithbaja View Post
                  I find slot of yammy pump housings melted. BAD design . Charles look under the wear plate and the POS plastic dust cap (black) and check the small ss seal spring. They go bad often in da salt. The pump housings usually melt at the top of the housing on the inside above the "cup"... if replacing remove the very top, black water outlet seal and install to new pump housing.. I always grind down the new keyway and install with"Tripble guard grease" when install the two O rings above the cup I use Gas
                  All good ,no compromise or melted parts.The "plastic dust cap" looked fine as well as everything under it.The impeller was also in great condition.Key came out with usual effort and went back in with effort as well.I dont love that design!! Used LOTS of grease and the total change out of the waterpump went flawlessly .Went back together easily while wifey connected and zip tied the speedo tube just before the lower unit was driven home.Charlie

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                  • #10
                    Good on ya mate. They have some issue's. Like you buy a whole, complete W/P kit and you don't get the water outlet grommlet... Also I like to buff the original bolts that have a "shoulder" and clean and then buff the lwr section of drive shaft with crocus cloth. Try checking out a tube of OMC Triple guard grease. Nothing else comes close. You did lift & turn driveshaft clockwise while locking down the collar and washers ?

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                    • #11
                      Just as you’ve discovered, WP kits do not include the 3 washers, spacer, and driver shaft collar. They are meant to be reused when replacing the kit. Though some folks cut off the aluminum drive shaft collar to quicken the pump extraction process, then install a new one during assembly.
                      Jason
                      1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Keithbaja View Post
                        Good on ya mate. They have some issue's. Like you buy a whole, complete W/P kit and you don't get the water outlet grommlet... Also I like to buff the original bolts that have a "shoulder" and clean and then buff the lwr section of drive shaft with crocus cloth. Try checking out a tube of OMC Triple guard grease. Nothing else comes close. You did lift & turn driveshaft clockwise while locking down the collar and washers ?
                        Yes thats exactly the way i did it ,I had my wife bring me a beer,I handed her a pair of rubber gloves and showrd her how to lift the driveshaft and
                        i tapped down the collar with the perfect size open end wrench and a small hammer.Fortunately she does not mind getting semi-involved .I dont like the main oring at the base of the housing.does not stay in place so I glued it in place as I didnt trust the ring staying put while the top of the impeller turns for seating..Not a good design at all.I can see that ring not being seated properly more often than not.

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                        • #13
                          I have seen many melted piston's on yammy's. All because fool's watch U-tube vids and that "o ring" gets slightly shifted or cut when replacing the pump housing.. bad design.. If you have a chance,, look up Mercury sueing and winning in federal court about yammy dumping their outboards in the the usa market...FACT

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                          • #14
                            Mercury Marine

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Keithbaja View Post
                              Mercury Marine
                              Keith do you realize you can edit the posts you just posted instead of posting a new one?
                              may not be able to after some time period,
                              not sure how long of a time that is, but if you do not see the edit button the time is over

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