Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

F225 Oil Pan Part ID

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • F225 Oil Pan Part ID

    The oil plug on my 2005 F225 was stripped so I brought it to a machine shop to install a helicoil. They did a good job of repairing the threads but when they drilled it they went to far and hit a metal tube that was directly in front of the oil plug. I am trying to ID what the part is that they hit but can find it on the parts diagrams. I believe it’s the tube that I have circled in red in this picture. Does anyone know what this part is? I tried to get all the metal shavings flushed out but it looks like we will have to take the engine apart completely to get it cleaned out good and that part replaced. Thanks

  • #2
    After looking closer that tube appears to be below the oil pan so it’s probably not that. Any idea what would be directly in front of the oil plug hole about 2” inside the pan?

    Comment


    • #3
      One reason for using a vacuum extraction device to remove the oil. As recommended by Yamaha.

      Looks to be the water tube.

      zwtube.png

      Comment


      • #4
        being inside the oil pan, my guess would be dip stick tube

        Comment


        • #5
          That pic you posted, I assume is NOT your engine correct?

          As noted, being as work was done inside the oil pan, here's the dip stick that would be INSIDE the oil pan (part #23):
          https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...25turd/oil-pan

          I'd pull the dip stick (one bolt), check for damage and replace if necessary.



          Capture.JPG
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

          Comment


          • #6
            You were right, pulled the dipstick tube and it was hit. It looks like a good amount of metal was chewed up and is still in the oil pan. I ran about 5 qts of oil thru it to flush the metal and was still getting big chunks and a lot of really fine pieces. Think it would be best to pull it apart to get it cleaned out well? The machine shop that hit the dip stick tube said they would help with the cost of any damages.

            Comment


            • #7
              Might try filtering out your oil (thru a funnel with coffee filter/or Paper towels to screen out metal particles) and re-use for flushing purposes.

              Of course R&Ring the pan would be best but if you can flush numerous times (with "re-filtered" oil) and eventually get to where no particles come out, you should be good.. I'd do that before a tear down...

              Brake cleaner, sprayed both thru the dip stick hole (new stick housing installed )and BC into the open drain plug should help loosen metal debris wash out as well...

              Good luck and plz post back your final procedure (cleaning)..

              .
              Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 2 weeks ago.
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the advice. We decided instead of flushing it out we will be installing the exhaust repair kit (MAR-EXHKT-04-00) which Yamaha offers at cost and the oil pan is apart of the kit. Not sure if this outboard has the corrosion issues or not but we figured might as well get it done now. We are planning on replacing the oil pump as well, any other good maintenance items to be done while the power head is off?
                Last edited by hewbztron; 1 week ago.

                Comment


                • #9
                  There is no sensible rationale for simply replacing the oil pump per se
                  (there is no part of an engine better lubricated against wear, than the oil pump!)

                  however, similar to the exhaust corrosion,
                  those engines were apt to develop corrosion of the lower crankshaft,
                  which mates with the oil pump seals -
                  and for which Yamaha developed a "Speedi-seal' repair.

                  https://tinyurl.com/y3g49jot

                  If the oil pump is removed to install the Speedi-seal,
                  then a new oil pump (which comes with seals installed) is generally installed.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks, I have the crank repair sleeve as well. Is it generally worth installing this even though I don’t have any oil leaks or would it be best just to leave it alone? 1100 hrs on the outboard

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      would you like to tear it down again to do that later or take care of it now while you have it apart?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Got it all taken apart today. Corrosion wasn’t too bad on the exhaust. I am glad we took it apart as there were a lot of metal shavings stuck in the corners on the oil pan that I don’t think would have been able to be flushed out.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X