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  • #31
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
    And lastly, the oil change kit comes with FIVE quarts of oil. Having the shop manual, owners manual and changing the oil for the last 8 years, I know it takes 5.5 quarts. That's with start, run for a couple, let drain with the engine tilted slightly forwad (for oil on the casting webs to drain), then trim back to verticle. Oil level with 5.5 quarts puts the level dead smack in the middle of the stick..

    **The parts guy looked it up and said, yep, the F150 takes exactly 5 quarts. (that's NOT whats in MY manuals). I already had an extra half quart, used that and have a spare quart now..
    Confused; kit contains 5 quarts plus the 1/2 quart you already had equals 5.5 quarts, how did you wind up with an extra quart?? Did you engine get upgraded to a making oil model?

    I think the new standard is middle of the stick due to the newer 4-strokes ability to make oil, unlike 8-years ago.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by tmann45 View Post
      Confused; kit contains 5 quarts plus the 1/2 quart you already had equals 5.5 quarts, how did you wind up with an extra quart?? Did you engine get upgraded to a making oil model?

      I think the new standard is middle of the stick due to the newer 4-strokes ability to make oil, unlike 8-years ago.

      I bought an extra, separate quart as I didn't want to run short. It'll keep for next time.

      I had a Yamaha MC that liked to make oil. This engine, (and its not used often) has never made a drop of oil. Its always stayed in the mid cross hatch marked area.

      I didn't check with just 5 quarts, but it might touch the bottom of the hatch marks.
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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      • #33
        I have the vacuum pump/container Rod uses and it works fantastic, however since I trailer my boat , I prefer the drain plug method. Because I am out of the water and can fully get behind accessibility is a breeze. Gravity seems to do a better job on removing the bottom sludge (if any) and if done right neat and tidy. I think however, if I were servicing others I would not use the drain plug. Mainly because you just don't know who worked on this engine before. If the previous guy has Gorilla hands you will be in trouble. if that drain plug is mashed down and threads stretched or crossed you will have a problem with it going back on leak tight. Easy to cross thread that bolt due to the rubber impeding a straight in approach. Many think they caught the threads and hammer it down.. wrong ! Make sure you can turn the bolt 2-3 easy turns and do not mash it down. I use marine never seez on the threads and coat them liberally and only snug to about 20 foot lbs. Its an easy job if done right. just be careful..not too tight and use anti corrosion lubricant on the bolt.

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        • #34
          I will sometimes "sacrifice about a half quart of oil to the oil change gods" to try and get a little more of the bottom oil out. I think that if you change your oil on regular basis (and run it nice and warm before you change it), you likely won't have very much sludge at all... but just in case I flush it a bit with that extra oil after it initially stops draining.
          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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