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Trim cylinder leak from seal in cap

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  • Trim cylinder leak from seal in cap

    2007 F250 .......So I need to replace the Trim cylinder ram seal ...I know how to do it .. I have the "special" spanner tool to remove the cap ... The cap won"t budge .... I've snapped a dozen or so pins (set screws that are threaded into the tool ) I really don't want to try the "hammer and punch" method ..... So does anyone have an alternative method . ??? thanks ...tony

  • #2
    You've snapped the pins? Strange. Are you sure you're keeping enough downward pressure on the tool? Meaning, maybe they're snapping because the tool is starting to move at an angle. I didn't need to, but I've read about slipping a length of PVC pipe over the trim ram and then letting the engine down onto the PVC to keep enough pressure on the tool. With enough pressure, you may be able to "shock" things with a hammer blow - in both directions. If it's corrosion - the shocking may help.

    And... you do know the difference between righty-tighty and lefty-loosey, right?
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #3
      thanks .... lmao yes i know the difference !!!! I thought was holding enough down pressure ... your thought about the PVC sounds good .. i will give that a try .... I have done this several times before all with success in using the tool except one time and I wound up destroying the cap with a hammer and punch ...

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      • #4
        Still cant get cap off .... i tried the pvc trick of keeping pressure down on tool .... still shearing the set screw pins . Tried a hammer to vibrate any corrosion , but doesn't look corroded .. Did not do the hammer and punch technique, I think that's just going to cause me more issues (past experience ) .. So if anyone has any other Ideas ???? Heat ????

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        • #5
          Can you strike the tool, when "PRE-LOADED" hopefully shocking it loose?

          Can't hurt to try some heat but it's going to dissipate pretty quickly being aluminum..

          A but crude and you'll need a new cap but: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kloGmJfPCcw
          .
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ttles714 View Post
            Still cant get cap off .... i tried the pvc trick of keeping pressure down on tool .... still shearing the set screw pins . Tried a hammer to vibrate any corrosion , but doesn't look corroded .. Did not do the hammer and punch technique, I think that's just going to cause me more issues (past experience ) .. So if anyone has any other Ideas ???? Heat ????
            Well, it was worth a shot! Too bad. I don't think you're going to cause any issues by punch/hammer. The pipe wrench is a good idea... and you could file/sand it smooth again pretty easily. Remember to have 3 points of contact with the pipe wrench. Not a huge deal with a solid piece (as opposed to a pipe), but it ensures you don't oblong it. Better grip.

            Worst case, the caps aren't that expensive.

            Just out of curiosity, what brand spanner where you using?
            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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