intermittent starter problem

[michaelmeseck]

Hey guys,

I have a 2006 4 Stroke 150 that has gradually started acting funny at start-up. A few months ago every once in awhile I would turn the key and hear absolutely nothing (as if battery was completely dead). Very next turn of the key and she fired up without hesitation. I fish every single weekend and this initially only happened like 1 out of 30 attempted starts (roughly). Now it is getting worse...

Sometimes I attempt to start it cold and it kicks over immediately. Other times I turn the key and the starter engages the flywheel and stays stuck in the "up" position (engaged). After 5-10 turns of the key it will eventually disengage and then often fire right up on the very next turn (and usually the next 5-10 starts after that). I have cleaned all battery and battery switch connectors and put new ends on any that even looked suspect (most had very little corrosion if any). Not sure where to start here and hate to replace the starter if this is bad power cables or otherwise.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have searched this forum for instructions on how to do systematic voltage drop test and was unable to locate it. Thank you in advance for the help.

Mike

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mike,

Your symptoms are slightly different from mine(same engine) but please read this thread;

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...t-th23164.html

I have pic's of the BAD starter relay cut up and the crappy contacts. (a low engine, but still 8 years old). Bad contacts in the relay would not give a good transfer of 12 volts or if the internal coil in the relay is failing, it wouldn't make any noises and wouldn't send any power to the starter. This is likely your issue and is not un-common to fail..

Pull the main cowl off and access the starter relay (Port side).

If the internal coil (inside the relay, not visable) is working, you should at least hear a click(its activating).

You'll have one larger cable going to the relay and one going to the starter itself(from the relay).

Check to see, when you turn the key to crank, that your getting 12 volts to the starter side of the relay. Also check to see if the relay (thru the smaller wires) is indeed getting power when in CRANKING MODE.

If its the relay, you can by-pass that relay and jump (for CRANKING PURPOSES ONLY) the two main lugs. If 12 volts is at the one lug, jumping it by passes the relay altogether.

[sachin2021]

You could also have an intermittent bridging problem causing the starter gear to stay engaged. Narrow down that problem and fix it quick. Otherwise your armature will wear out prematurely. New ones aren't cheap. There is also a wire that run from the fuse box to the starter solenoid. See if it is clean without corrosion. Check the starter solenoid.

[rodbolt17]

keep searching the forum, myself and several others have beat up PROPER voltage drop testing almost as much as precision blend.

[michaelmeseck]

thanks for all the quick replies. I will attempt voltage drop testing today and definitely check for power in and out of that relay. can these tests be done using a cheap analog multimeter, or should I go invest in a nice digital version? somehow I doubt that it's the last time I'll use it : /

[michaelmeseck]

I am reading everything I can find on the forums as well as Googling and YouTubing everything I can find about voltage drop tests. I understand the concept, but need to ask one more stupid question.

Rodbolt17, in one post you discussed checking a positive battery cable by putting a meter on battery post and again on post on starter. Here comes the stupid question... do I need a multimeter with cables long enough to reach from my battery (under my center console) all the way to the motor, or are we talking about using two separate multimeters at the same time?

Thanks again for taking your time to help an electrical rookie...

[99yam40]

Just use a jumper wire or cable to extend to where you need to go

[michaelmeseck]

99yam40, thanks for the tip.

Haven't tested voltages yet but upon inspecting my battery "system" I found (remembered) that there is a thermal circuit breaker in the circuit and attached to my *****ing motor. It does appear to have some mild corrosion on the terminals (the only thing I have seen so far with any visible corrosion and the only thing I haven't cleaned terminals on). That got me thinking... at some point this summer I started having an intermittent problem with my *****ing motor cutting out (and it still does it). Is it possible that this is the faulty part of my wiring system?

I know I am probably asking alot of dumb questions, but I'm also thinking that this is going to be hard to track down (even the voltage drop test) when it is so intermittent. Wouldn't I have to be "catching" the voltage drop on the one key turn that starter sticks and motor doesn't turn over???

With key switch in the "ON" position this morning I was getting 12.3 volts at the battery posts and 12.3 volts at the starter. I know this isn't the same as testing it under a load but it was too early to start the motor and anger my neighbors ; )

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My bad relay didn't work for 5 or 6 trys, then worked fine.

But yes, testing for 12 volts when cranking(or when it doesn't) at each end is fine. You can get the Battery Load tested to pretty much rule that out.

If, when its acting up, you jump across / past the starter relay and it fires up, that's likely your issue..

Re the *****ing motor. Depending on how its wired into the system would make a difference. It's also VERY likely, if that's acting up too, you have a funky battery cable or bad ground somehwere effecting both. Corrosion likes to creep inside and up battery cables so keep a keen eye. If you have a battery isolator, (like a Perko switch), check that for a good connection or by pass it. Its just one more point for failure...

You will need another person to turn the key(when its acting up) while you check your voltages for any drop.