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Purchased Used Boat with Yamaha 250

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  • Purchased Used Boat with Yamaha 250

    Good afternoon all. Needing assistance from you certified Yamaha mechanics. I purchased a boat from a broker that has a 2005 Yamaha 250 with really low hours. Long and short is the broker was supposed to complete a professional inspection of the entire boat. During the sales phase of starting the engine and making sure it ran properly, their was an issue with the water flow getting to the engine and the owner of the company stated that the bigger engines (this is a 250 hp) have a harder time getting pressure using the rabbit ears. They cleaned one of the areas where mud daubers have a tendency to congregate and that didn’t fix the issue either. I asked the salesman “I thought you professionally inspect all boats when they arrive” ? He stated they did not inspect this particular boat. So based on the brokers comment regarding bigger engines (this is a 250 hp) have a harder time getting pressure we purchased the boat believing what he said was true. This particular broker doesn't allow test drives due to insurance policy. Yes, shame on me.
    When I got back home with the boat I took it over to my boat mechanics shop to have the 100 hour service performed and to have them inspect it. He informed me the engine shows major signs of overheating and that no maintenance performed for a very long time. He told me their was no way possible the boat was able to run without causing major damage and he could prove it. The engine had run so hot before that some of the impeller inside the water pump had melted (see attached picture) and some was sucked up in the water pick-up tube blocking water to the engine (will need to zoom in to see). Some of the impeller actually melted in the housing as well (see attached picture). Another reason why the engine ran so hot was it was full of sand throughout (see attached picture). My mechanic said had this boat engine been inspected/tested , it would have overheated in no time as it wasn't getting any water to cool it off. So i'm asking for a second opinion to put my mind at ease, do you certified mechanics, based on the attached pictures support my mechanics diagnosis? Do you all have any additional comments good, bad or different? Many thanks.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Well most of us on here are not certified Yamaha mechanics...there are a few and hopefully they will chime in.

    That impeller and housing can be destroyed in a very short time running the engine without water hooked up on land or starting it with the engine tilted up with the boat in in the water. That doesn't mean that the engine was destroyed from overheating necessarily.
    What major damage is your mechanic talking about?

    What are your intentions with this engine? Are you trying to get your money back or is the engine yours now?

    If it is yours I would put a new water pump assy on it. Remove the thermsat and back flush the cooling system with water and compressed air to blow out any pieces of the impeller and sand back out the water tube. Catch what comes out in a bucket to see what you get.

    Pressure check the Lower unit, change the oil in it and inspect for water.

    Change engine oil and filter. Cut the filter open and inspect for metal.

    Do a leak down test on the engine.

    Borescope the cylinders.

    If all is well, run the engine and see how it goes.

    Lots of things can be done to determine if the engine has been damaged.

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    • #3
      Trying to get my money back. Was told engine has 98 hours on it (which it does) and was in very good shape. Wan't intending to spend an extra 3-4K for an engine that wasn't even tested by the broker. My mechanic already replaced water pump but lines are so clogged with sand as he tried blowing some out with 180 psi but to no avail. He said the cooling system is full of melted pieces of the impeller and that sand is probably in heads etc. He also said all exhaust ports need to be replaced and engine looked as if it had ever been flushed. I just don't see how someone can sell something without validating it first. I guess the same could say that for the stupid end user who bought it...me

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      • #4
        we have no idea what motor you are talking about, but some will have records in the ecu as to at what running hours alarms came in.
        those record would be helpful to you.
        that little bit of sand you showed does not mean motor cooling passages are full of sand, but they might have some or a lot.

        someone that gets stranded on a sand bar will pump a lot of water and sand mix while trying to get the boat moving. raising the T&T too high and it smokes the impeller.

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        • #5
          Thank you for your input. The motor I'm referring to is a 2005 Yamaha 250 with 98 hours on it that came with a boat I purchased.

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          • #6
            have a look here and see if you can figure out what 250 you have, we sure have no idea
            https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...d-by-year/2005


            think about this, when were those 98 hours put onto that 15 year old motor?
            could be it sat for 5,
            10,or 15 years wthout running at all, and when someone finally fired it up the pump fell apart

            a motor that runs 100 hours a year is going to be a better motor than one that is parked and never run for years at a time
            Last edited by 99yam40; 04-21-2020, 05:10 PM.

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            • #7
              My old 200 precision blend would overheat on the muffs. I would put a new water pump on -it's inexpensive-and give it a try. As was said before the water pump self destructed from lack of water, but that doesn't mean the engine is damaged.

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