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Yamaha 50 TLRC Parts needed for Impeller replacement?

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  • Yamaha 50 TLRC Parts needed for Impeller replacement?

    I am replacing the Impeller on the 50hp motor I just bought with Key Largo 160. Are there other gaskets for the Foot that I should get at this time? Is this the part? 18-3396-1 It does not show Fitment for this item. Thanks.
    Tom
    Daphne, Al.

  • #2
    If you buy/order the water pump " kit" then you get the gaskets, impeller, stainless cup, etc.....if you buy/order just the impeller then that's what you' ll get.....Personally when I do my water pump I order the kit, and the price is only a few $$$ more so everything is new....

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    • #3
      here is the Water Pump Repair Kit for the 50TLRC -
      part # 63D-W0078-01-00
      no other gaskets needed to change the complete water pump

      https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha...686f36ead8fa92

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      • #4
        it is always good to check the lower unit lube also to make sure you do not need to reseal things if water is getting in the lube.
        and check to make sure the dampener right next to the water pump is in good shape while the lower is off

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        • #5
          I agree with Yam on the damper seal. It is item #5 and #6 in link below. Last time I done my water pump on my F60 the damper seal support, item #5 was corroded away to nothing and the seal was gone hard.

          https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...casing-drive-2

          Don't know if you have it apart yet, but those parts will set you back another $20.00
          Last edited by panasonic; 3 weeks ago.

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          • #6
            Ordered #5 Guide seal damper. and #6 Damper seal. also.
            Water Pump Repair Kit for the 50TLRC - part # 63D-W0078-01-00
            Thanks , Fairdeal, Panasonic. And others.

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            • #7
              the only reason to replace would be if the old one is in bad shape

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              • #8
                Just purchased Key Largo 160 center console and 50 TLRC with questionable workmanship or lack there of. Doing some Preventative maintenance. I have the time and money for parts. Plus the water stream is sometimes intermittent. My brother sucked a half pea size whitish chunk out ot the final hose from block to exit port. Worked a while . Turned off and then back on and it took too long to squirt so turned it off. I bought new double stream muffs so water should not be problem. Your thoughts?
                I am going to start a new post looking for info for ordering fuel hose's as large blue and small internals are looking like 15 year old hoses. Had VW's and saw enough fires due to hoses. I replaced all my hoses and fittings so it was not mine. Want to keep it that way.

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                • #9
                  Got the parts now to put them together. Pulled the foot and Impellar looks good. Slight bend, no Cracks, no tears, Previous said replaced 1 1/2 year ago. The foot oil was a Milky Green. Got seals #50 . Saw some say pull out with Screwdriver Ice pick / Old School?? Thoughts.? Thanks guys.

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                  • #10
                    well, there's 3 possible entry points for water to get in and make the oil 'milky':
                    those prop shaft seals - #50
                    the driveshaft seals - #32
                    less likely, the shift shaft seal - #15

                    you might begin by pressure testing the lower unit -
                    should be able to hold 14 psi for 10 seconds -
                    confirm that it does leak,
                    use some soapy water to determine exactly where

                    replacing propshaft seals 'by the book' means pulling the bearing carrier - #43
                    which can be a considerable struggle on a 15 year old motor

                    if you decide instead to change them via 'the hack method' -
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c14ixpVXrZ0&t=736s
                    just take great care not to scratch/score the shaft
                    Last edited by fairdeal; 1 week ago.

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                    • #11
                      the drain screw and the vent screw seals could also let water in.

                      I agree pressure test to find out what needs replacing

                      popping seals out when sitting that close to shafts that the seals ride on can cause the need for new shafts
                      Last edited by 99yam40; 1 week ago.

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                      • #12
                        New Impeller and O ring seals. Put it together and no water out the weep hole. I take the cover off Thermostat. WaLa no thermostat. I leave cover off, start motor in bucket. No water getting up to thermostat void./????? Where would the water stop???? Would rather not burn this puppy up. Thanks.

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                        • #13
                          1st thought would be you did not have the lower in deep enough, water level needs to be where the water pump has water in it before starting the motor, not just over the intake

                          if that is the problem, I hope you did not run it long without water to lube the new rubber impeller that it got damaged
                          Last edited by 99yam40; 3 days ago.

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                          • #14
                            Take the Lower unit back off, hook a water hose to the water tube the goes up into the bottom of the engine and see if the water flows through the block. If it does, then the water pump is not put together right....go back and revisit that.

                            If it doesn't then you have a blockage in the water passages in the block somewhere.

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                            • #15
                              99yam40 I hope that I did not screw up the impeller. Water was over inlet grid about 2". Previously I had double stream muffs and no weep. Will go back to the muffs.

                              Panasonic As 99 says I did not have water above the impeller. I will take the foot off again and put the hose on it. Will have cover off Thermostat and see if it gets that high. Flow direction from Impeller tube to Thermostat is that thru the cylinder chambers for cooling or before?

                              Thank you both for input.

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