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2005 f225TURD's

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  • 2005 f225TURD's

    Do I need a slide hammer to rebuild my water pumps? I watched a handful of YT vids and I cannot find the answer. Some pumps can be pried up, others require a slide hammer. It's time. Pumps, anodes, T-Stats and lower unit oil.

  • #2
    No. A slide hammer is not needed.

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    • #3
      About the hardest part is removing the key that keeps the impeller attached to the driveshaft. Just be super careful knocking that out.

      Might want to inspect the seals under the SS plate as the springs (that keep tension on the seals) tend to "go away" over time too.

      Lastly, (you may already know), pull up on the driveshaft when installing the retainer "rings" (not the correct word). If not, you'll likely hear some knocking at lower RPMs..(won't hurt anything, just annoying)..
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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      • #4
        Many thanks.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

          Lastly, (you may already know), pull up on the driveshaft when installing the retainer "rings" (not the correct word). If not, you'll likely hear some knocking at lower RPMs..(won't hurt anything, just annoying)..
          The 3 rings on top of the impeller?


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          • #6
            I believe it is 3 wavy(sping)washers in the cover that is fitted over them to preload

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
              I believe it is 3 wavy(sping)washers in the cover that is fitted over them to preload
              ^^^, Yep..

              (Haven't been able to post with the site down)..

              What was the condition of the springs/seals under the wear plate (if you looked)?
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #8
                Originally posted by oldmako69 View Post
                Many thanks.
                Get her done?

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                • #9
                  Well, no.

                  Pulled 6 nuts and two bolts and the lower unit is positively fused to the upper. I wailed on it with a large rubber mallet and got nowhere. So, I wandered off and fired up the grill and the beer machine. Fixed my old car, pulled the headliner from another, waxed my truck, mowed the lawn, chased the old lady around....

                  BOTH engines.

                  I am currently abroad but next week I'll head back with a bigger hammer and a block of hardwood.

                  Andy at SIM suggested loosening ALL the fasteners 1/8 inch, backing it down the ramp, firing them up and put it in gear. Think I may try that as well. With the bolts in place, but loose, the torque might just be the ticket to demating the two pieces.

                  I tried posting here last week but this place was so ****ed up I quit trying. I watched a YouTube vid of a guy using splitting wedges (IRON) and a mallet but that just gave me the Willies. He must have torn the hell out of the engine and lower unit. I have no desire to damage them in that manner until I have exhausted all other attempts.

                  Any ideas???

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by oldmako69 View Post
                    Pulled 6 nuts and two bolts and the lower unit is positively fused to the upper.
                    Two bolts, certainly, if you are not counting the bolt that holds the trim anode;

                    Of course you took the trim anode off -
                    and the bolt behind the trim anode?
                    and the bolt up in that deep counterbore?

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                    • #11
                      Just curious, when was the last time the LU was off??

                      And I'd loosen those nuts/ bolts a bit more than 1/8" when doing that procedure..


                      Someone else posted that video (very brutal), but the "mechanic" did get it off W/O much/if any visible damage.
                      Much easier to do when it's NOT your engine...
                      Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 3 days ago.
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                      • #12
                        Fairdeal,

                        6 nuts. 2 bolts. All were removed. That includes the hidden one you mentioned.


                        Towns,

                        I cannot answer that Q. I bought it late 2017 (as I recall) and the owner had the pumps done post-purchase, and pre-delivery. Or so he said. I have put about 200 hours on the engines since then. Apparently, shame on me for not changing them sooner. But as far as I know, they might be 2005 pumps. The boat had 125 hours on it when I bought it. Stored inside, perfect shape, all that.

                        I have been changing impellers for over 20 years and figured that since I run the boat in deep water and never in shallow or silty conditions, and that considering the P streams were tight that I was OK. Apparently not. In those 200 hours, I have learned almost all of what there is to know about fuel delivery. But not enough about water cooling.

                        I agree with you on the 1/8 inch, but I figured that I could try that small decrement first. Then back off another few turns if unsuccessful and go hog wild.

                        Spoke with a friend, he suggested that I toss my rubber mallet and upgrade to something more persuasive and whack the shinola out of the trailing edge of the prop hub and the leading edge of the drive shaft bullet. His logic is that the engines were designed to hit stuff along the leading edge and this was the strongest point of the LU. Hence, a good place to bang. That's my next tack.

                        I have seen how easy it is to damage an LU and I remain terrified of what lies ahead.

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                        • #13
                          Sorry ass Yamahas. Lawsuit I say. I wouldn’t be banging on the areas mentioned. I would go with the wedge process first.

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                          • #14
                            I am unable to get even a razor blade between the two pieces. A wedge will likely destroy (or shred) the casting. If I had 1/8", I'd start with wedges. Until I get a slit, I am up Schitss Waterway.

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                            • #15
                              There should be some play to create a gap to get a wedge in, never seen one stuck tight like that, unless there is a bolt left in.

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