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f20 sheared drive shaft removal

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  • f20 sheared drive shaft removal

    One of our F20LEHA motors came back with the drive shaft sheared off on the motor end right where it tapers down to the narrowest part. Is there any tricks to getting the stub out of the motor. Tried a weak magnet and it didn't work. Thanks

  • #2
    You might try rotating by hand (ignition off) the flywheel back and forth slightly.

    Unless it hasn't been serviced in a long time, grease is probably holding it up there. Gently tapping the shaft up there may allow it to come down(don't get clobbered!).

    Your customers are pretty tough on those boats...jeez..

    Please post back what worked (or didn't for you)..
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 08-16-2014, 01:53 PM.
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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    • #3
      Thanks I will give it a try, Yeah they are tough on them, We installed rock hoppers and that helped a ton but I think a small log made its way into the prop on this one.

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      • #4
        No luck If I remove the power head will that give me access to the top side of it to knock it out of there? How long aprox. to do that and get it back together?

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        • #5
          No idea...

          Depending on the size opening you have way there, can you get a larger magnet, attach to a rod and try that?

          I'm also wondering if spraying some lube up there, then gently tapping upwards at the broken part of the shaft may loosen it.

          If its been somewhat maintained, it should just be grease holding it up there. If not, may be rust...
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            How about a bit of super glue on a long stick hahaha

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            • #7
              I would start the motor and let it run long enough to get good and warm. Maybe expansion of the crankshaft together with vibration will let gravity do its job.

              On the other hand, that power plant could be lifted from the mid-section is short order. You would then be able to get a tool on the drive shaft remains.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
                I would start the motor and let it run long enough to get good and warm. Maybe expansion of the crankshaft together with vibration will let gravity do its job.

                On the other hand, that power plant could be lifted from the mid-section is short order. You would then be able to get a tool on the drive shaft remains.
                And run water thru (if equipped) the flushing water inlet in the powerhead? The water pump won't be working(the LU already off).

                The oil pump on the 2006 and newer models per the parts fisch runs off a cam shaft so it shouldn't be an issue with being splined to that shaft..

                For the OP, do you know the last time the splines would have been lubed?
                Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 08-17-2014, 03:37 AM.
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                • #9
                  Yes, definitely with water being fed to the block.

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                  • #10
                    Pulled the power head and got it out Do I need to re measure for pinion shim with the replacement shaft? Thanks again

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                    • #11
                      Just curious but how bad was it stuck in there?....was it the grease or corrosion that was holding it?....

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                      • #12
                        you may have to reshim it.
                        use the service manual and check both fwd and rev gear back lash BEFORE dissasembling the unit.
                        check/reshim as nessasary the new shaft to the original fwd and rev lash.

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                        • #13
                          It wasn't stuck too bad vice grips pulled it out, It looked like factory grease that was holding it in there. I think when it sheared it bound it up a little. Thanks Rodbolt I will check the backlash before and after.

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                          • #14
                            Well, better the driveshaft break than the crankshaft or lower unit....wonder what Yamaha gets for a new driveshaft?....

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by robert graham View Post
                              Well, better the driveshaft break than the crankshaft or lower unit....wonder what Yamaha gets for a new driveshaft?....
                              $212.00

                              2006 and Later F20LEHA Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 1 Diagram and Parts
                              Scott
                              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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